JustRandy

Be careful. I don't have any bumpsteer yet when I clipped a tree the handlebars hit my leg with such force I thought I was gonna die. It was like taking a louisville slugger to the femur. It was all I could do to compose myself enough to turn the key off to stop the vibration. A buddy clipped a tree and broke his arm bones near the hand. Cost him $20k to pin it back together. He's the one with the 700 king with the backwards caster.

Looks like some hella bumpsteer to build up the arms lol. Are the rims flipped?

I looked up the quiet core and it looks like it goes inside the pipe to increase resistance to exiting the pipe which gives the exhaust more time to quiet down. I did the same sort of thing with my 250 by sticking the next size down pipe in the tail pipe. The reduced diameter causes just enough backpressure to make it quieter. But what it looks like you have is a pipe over the top of the other pipe which doesn't increase backpressure and you've covered half of the holes which seems like it would make it louder. It will work but it might not be very quiet. The muffler works by dumping energy into each of those holes as the wave moves along the length. If you reduce the holes along the length, you reduce the damping capabilities. The inserts can't go over top of other pipes because they have screens on the ends.

Needs more garlic powder man. Maybe some black pepper corns. What's the purpose of the sink drain pipe? Looks like it's covering half the holes.

Looks good!

An AGM left me stranded on top of a mountain and I swore I'd never use another. I had to walk 2 hours back to camp to retrieve a lead acid battery. Lead acid is better except for the fact that all the bouncing around on an ATV makes it impossible to keep the acid in it which corrodes any metal on the ATV and destroys the battery. I'm currently using gel batteries which are somewhere between AGM and lead acid.

They have the 5-valve head. Everyone else is stubborn I guess. Or maybe it's like pro wrestling. Pretty much. It's almost like Honda goes out of its way to not do anything particularly well other than always working. Maybe being ok at everything but good at nothing is their shtick. So the piston fried in another jug? Yeah that makes sense except at what point did bearings fall apart? That sounds about right. You have too much sense for an economist lol.

Not just that but the blaster, warrior, banshee, and raptor are unique machines. The only thing suzuki ever had was the zilla and maybe the king quad if all the gears make it unique. Honda is the mediocrity and kawasaki the third wheel leaving polaris as the village idiot. Maybe someone didn't know the oiler was disabled? I don't know how else to produce that damage to the piston and bearings other than lack of oil. Did you examine the sleeve for evidence of seizing? Like, what inflation??? lol

Wonder what explains all the attention? Slow news day? After reading the comments I'd say almost certainly the automatic oiler stopped working.

Looks like it underwent catastrophic failure if bearings are pulverized. I'd mix my own gas rather than rely on an oiler.

Yeah man pick me out something great because I don't know one from another. I'd like to do things like sewing a new zipper on my jacket, new elastic in pants, and might even make my own quilt one day. Not sure if I'd sew anything heavier because I don't know what I'd do before having the capability to do it lol. I've always been confined to sewing by hand and that is sloooooooow. Helping you is its own reward because it gives me something interesting to do and puzzles to solve. I usually spend winters parked in front of the wood stove on the internet anyway. Looks like someone ran that engine without oil (plugged oiler I was talking about before?) from the condition of the piston and the wrist pin bearings. Is there any evidence of seizing in the jug? Probably have to bore it and go up a size in piston. Might need a new clutch too considering they likely beat the snot out of it. I guess what you do to it depends on whether you're flipping it or keeping it.

That's cool that you've found a line of work that is enjoyable. I tend to bounce from one interest to another because as soon as I've learned how to do something then doing it more is more like a chore than an interest. If I were a kid I'd be all over that truck coolant but now I'm dragging my feet something fierce. Between a general disinterest and the persistent deluge of calamity this year has been it's an exercise in resolve just to get anything done. I need to get a sewing machine but I don't know the first thing about them.

Abandoning the interesting to pursue the mundane. I guess you can't have pudding until you eat your meat lol

Dang man all I can think is you should be a writer or editor of something because your prose looks better than that puzzle you've undertaken lol. Well at least you won't be suffering boredom for the foreseeable future. This is the first time I've laid eyes on a blaster since I was a kid ogling the atv mags so I don't have any technical input other than generic 2-stroke knowledge which isn't helping me explain what might be hung in your gears. Are you building this for you or to flip? If it were for me I wouldn't sweat the back brakes since I always take those off to save weight and complexity and they're fairly useless anyway. Did I mention I can bunnyhop my 230 with the engine off in the garage? Are there cheap chinese alternatives to wiseco? If so I might be interested. If the frame is bent they're not that hard to straighten. I have a pic of that somewhere. Well I guess I'll follow you to the yamaha board for your search for life.

I've never used argon. Always used fluxcore. Well, one idea is wrap the pipe in steel and weld it. When it cools it will shrink and reduce the pipe. Also, to remove sleeves from jugs, weld a line down the sleeve and it will shrink. Blasters are cool. No experience with them though.

If the springs you have now ain't strong enough to close the valve then stronger springs won't help as it will just roll more metal into a ball and seize tighter. I'd start with a compression checker and see if compression is the problem. And starting fluid to see if it will fire at all. I've always wanted a metal lathe but no idea where to put it. I've always managed to hodge podge my way around having one. Metal dings is another reason I like having substantial metal for a muffler. If I remember right, the fitting is tapered so it has to be pounded together then fastened with screws. The first wrap is steel wool, then thick fiberglass for patching boats, then the pink stuff. I was really impressed how well it worked. I tried to replicate it with the king but I made the muffler short and fat instead of long and skinny and that didn't work, so the king is louder. The only way I know to reduce the diameter of pipe is to cut and weld. I'd get a fluxcore wire welder if I were you. They don't cost much and come in handy a lot.

If a valve is sticking I can't imagine there is anything you can do other than reaming out the guide. That same guy also had a valve sticking but it didn't affect anything since the spring was plenty strong enough to force it closed. That engine had EVERYTHING wrong with it. When we flushed the engine with kerosene a bunch of random metal shapes came out. I have pics somewhere. If it's smoking that bad then maybe the rings are worn so much that compression can't build, but I'd be surprised because the stroke is so long that it almost doesn't matter if the rings seal. Seems more likely a valve is open. That's why I say back off the lash so you're absolutely sure the valves are closing. Other than that, is it possible the cam chain could have jumped a tooth? If the valves are opening at the wrong time that would also lower compression. If you had a compression tester a lot of these things could be ruled out. Try some starting fluid just to see if it will fire up.

I guess from here I'd start with a different plug and look for vacuum leaks. Is the carb in the boot? Is the intake filter on? Then I guess keep digging farther into the carb looking for plugged jets. If it's not that, and it's not the ignition, then it has to be low compression. Either a valve is open or the rings are super worn, which I doubt because a buddy had a 250S where the weight of an empty beer can was nearly heavy enough to push his kicker down lol

More clearance man. Make the gap huge. You don't have to set it right to get it started. If you're getting gas and spark then either the spark is not the right time or the gas is the wrong mixture or compression is not high enough (open intake valve). Got a compression checker?

There wouldn't be spark if it were the neutral switch. Cold hard starting = check intake valve. Hot hard starting = check coils of enameled wire. .001 is the smallest perceptible movement without producing much of a click. .003 makes a decent clicking sound. Anything bigger feels sloppy. I don't use feeler gauges because they're too hard to wiggle in there.

I haven't heard mine running in 8 years! Mufflers like speaker boxes have to be strong enough to contain the sound which is why I picked something thick like a driveshaft. The pressure won't be able to leak through all that metal. Did you check the intake valve lash?

I think this is a Jardine exhaust like that guy with the 250S on craigslist. The muffler sucks so I made my own, but the header is nice. The muffler I made That's a section of driveshaft. The muffler is super quiet until the throttle is opened up. That's enough for today. My pc is acting up. I haven't restarted it in about 3 months so the memory is probably maxed.

My chain. Lightest I could find. Evidently I added weight to my clutch, but don't remember doing it lol

Yeah lime and plum is totally me man. How'd ya know?

I really hate that reply merging feature.