JustRandy

I went through that process of adjusting the lash to get it started for at least a year before I finally fixed it. Actually what happened is I burned up all the oil (yeah all 4 qts) and spun a cam bearing so I had to replace the cam and head and cover. No, actually what happened is a friend's truck somehow ejected the pin that holds the clutch hydraulic line in the slave cylinder so it was dumping oil and no way to fix it without removing the tranny, so since I was all greasy from helping him I decided to do my quad and that's when I discovered I ran it out of oil lol. I never thought it was possible to burn up 4 qts of oil between oil changes.

Yeah that will help. I haven't had it apart in 9 years so it's hard for me to remember what anything looks like under the hood.

The pump is in the front somewhere. It could be by the battery box, but I'm not sure. Yeah if you have a new pump then you don't need the old one.

Yeah but I don't know which is which. Since you said your carb is missing one I'm assuming you're using the other for the fuel pump.

The petcock I guess. I don't remember what I did to the petcock but I don't use that vacuum line. Seems like "off" is on and "on" or "reserve" is off. Yeah I'm pretty proud of those. That was a fun little project. They don't help as much as I'd hoped concerning the briers but they sure help keeping my hands warm. And they're indestructible. It's pretty much just Laphroaig now. That stuff is currency in this area. Back when I took that pic I was sampling lots of scotch but recently everyone decided nothing beats the Islay. The chainsaw mount comes in real handy too since I hate laying the chain on the steel racks and having it slide around. The big wing nut makes spinning it on and off easy while securely holding the saw. The front winch is another design marvel since said winch resides in the back lol, but I hate tangled cable so there is a guide on the front rack holding the cable such that it winds perfectly regardless which direction I'm pulling.

That's probably the one that goes to the fuel pump to make it pump. I don't have it on my carb so I tapped into the boot.

The first thing I did was get rid of the stock carb and that was 10 years ago so I'm probably not going to be much help. The vacuum line to the pump should be on the front of the carb. I put mine on the intake boot. If you blow air through it then you should feel it coming out inside the carb near the boot. Another one should be a vent and the third one should be the fuel inlet. Maybe Hagbard can be of more help.

I can't praise that 5000lb winch enough. It's awesome! I used to bid $50ish on ebay and win most of the time. I have at least 3 of them. The 2000lb is pretty crappy but works for the back of the quad. Mostly I use it for towing logs or whatever. I guess that's enough for today. Don't want to make this another photobucket lol

Chainsaw mount:

This was a fun project:

Here's my plug setup so I can plug in other winches ( on my trailer that dumps) into the same switch. And plug other batteries into the circuit or chargers.

I was toying with the idea of adding a gas tank to the front rack to add weight (and gas).

I just completed my quarterly pc restarting procedure freeing enough memory so I can load more pics now I did this after getting hung up on a small but stubborn stump protruding through the a-arms that required me fetching my truck to free the quad. Never again I said! Another view of the beefing: 50 lbs of lead weighs holding the front end down:

Me too. That extra wheel pulling sure makes a difference! With those low gears it's the most fun you can have at 1 mph lol

Thanks! I think the 230S weighs 50lbs and the frame is 20lb so I'm always scratching my head how a whole quad is over 300 lol Vince told me what happens is a shock in the driveline causes one half of the crank to twist relative to the other half, like for instance when jumping and landing while on the throttle. So welding the crank to the pin prevents that twisting and keeps the crank straight forever. Picture here https://www.trx450r.org/threads/builders-welding-the-crank-pin.198616/ Yep if you ever have to turn the headlights on to keep it running then you need a new regulator. Turning on the lights reduces the voltage. Once voltage gets over 16 or so the CDI won't work. (I have a voltmeter permanently attacked to the quad.) It's not a question of if your regulator will fail, but when. It's the most common problem on the kings. Usually you can see a crack in the back (from the heat). I just called Ricks and asked for the biggest they had. They said it is for a Triumph but I don't know the model either. I just asked out of curiosity. The packing list says "10-815; Universal Style Rectifier-Regulator". You probably won't like the price lol ($150 - 5 years ago). I suppose you don't have to get the biggest, but I have 2 winches and lots of lights and they assured me that regulator would handle 50 amps, which still isn't enough to power a winch but it's the best I could do. When you're ready to buy a winch be sure to ask me first. I've done a lot of research.

Well that's interesting. I guess the E has an alternator that needs to be incorporated on the crank. I'm starting to think this is something that I should do. If you do it be sure to get the 17mm long rod. And have the crank welded. Since you have both engines can you weigh them and tell me how much extra the 230E engine weighs vs the 230S?

Well if you really wanna know then call Vince and ask. I chatted with him a couple hours a decade ago. He'll probably tell you that the 230 isn't such a great engine to build unless you have him install a new rod and weld the crank. He can put the 17mm rod on and it doesn't cost that much if you're willing to split the cases. Yeah a 230ES would be pretty cool. A lot of the reason I don't want to fiddle with mine anymore is I don't feel like kicking it incessantly. I didn't think of filing the cam but yeah you could file off the round part to increase the lift then file off the peak of the lobe to lower the lift and increase duration. I've heard of guys doing that before. It doesn't even matter if the round part is polished since the rocker just glides over it. But if you file the lobe you'll have to assemble it and use paint to determine if the cam contacts the rocker fully.

What's wrong with the 230E case? Why would you need to split the case to rebuild the top? The only issue I can imagine, assuming everything else generally lines up, is the crank bearings may not be in line because I don't know if cases are a machined set. The only one i know who could definitively answer that question is Vince https://vincescycle.tripod.com/newparts/lt230s.html since he's the guy who replaces the rods on the crank. That compression is really low. Are you sure the valves are closing? I'm curious what the problem is. Looks like a culturally appropriate yin yang gas tank! We'll have to circle back to the sewing machine topic because I have too much going on at the moment.

Well I'm pretty good at making my own things so maybe the chinese is a possibility. Nothing about my 230 was designed by suzuki except the plastics. And all the work and expense I've put into that quad yet I haven't touched it in 8 years. Oh well, the fun part was building it. Likewise the prospect of building a sewing machine is more interesting than actually using it.

The guy in the video made it seem like not much of a big deal but crooked stitching of random lengths sounds like a big deal to me. So how do all the grandmas' manage to keep it straight without all the fancy stuff? Skill?

I watched that and a few more videos and realize I need to watch some more, maybe later tonight. Having the needle in the fabric as the fabric moves seems like the best way, but how much better is it? Is there ever a time where catastrophe would have been avoided if the needle had traveled with the fabric? Or is it a lot of intricate mechanism without any real benefit? I'm referring to walking foot vs walking foot + needle.

I appreciate the insight! It sounds like the walking foot is an imperative feature, especially for beginners. How important is it to have the compound feed? What happens to a sewing machine that isn't heavy cast iron? Is it that you can't use them a lot, like in a factory? Or is it that they won't sew thick material? How do the plastic ones fail?

Don't all machines have walking feet? What makes it industrial? Is that universal direction thingy important?

Are you sure I need all that? You're sweating $140 but having me shell out $500 for something I don't even know how to do lol. I don't even know how sewing machines work: how does the thread get hooked from under the cloth? I'm totally clueless. Maybe I need something with training wheels. Is there a KFX80 of sewing machines that I could cut my teeth on? Odd since this area is the textile capital of the world. There should be old factories plum full of them.

How did you determine other companies buy from megacycle? They have such insane lift that I've never seen in other cams. Even if you did get a coherent response I wouldn't trust it. Yeah that was the link I gave you containing The Vault with all the 230s info. Anything you could ever want to know about 230s are in that thread, plus a bunch of other random stuff you'll have to wade through to find the nuggets. I wonder what ever happened to that poolgod fella. I just signed up there to ask the valve specs and it ballooned into all that. I don't know why I tend to have that effect on threads. I wonder what the intake valve size is on those heads. Hotcams is a stock 230 cam. Except for the lift which gains you nothing other than having to accommodate it. Webcams has the best profiles but you have to send in your cam and rockers for welding. Webcams will grind any profile you request. Almost everyone ran webcams stage 2 back in the day. Stage 1 is pretty close to the 250S cam. I posted the specs of webcams, hotcams, and megacycle on one of these pages here. I don't know how successful you'll be at finding a good cam cheaper than $140. It might be easier to do another boat cover than all this research, especially if you ultimately find the 230S cam is pretty ubiquitous. Probably the cheapest way out is to weld and grind your own cam. I did that once to a bayou and it worked surprisingly well.