Ajmboy

I saw this article and thought it was interesting. You can follow it here: ATV Electronics series: Part 1 - ignition systems - - ATV at Off-Road.com

Few things can be as frustrating as diagnosing electrical systems. After all, there are seldom obvious signs of failure - I mean, you just can't see if electrons are flowing or not. Sure, every now and then you find a corroded connection, frayed wire, or burn looking electrical thingamajig. But how can you tell if your CDI or stator is bad? It's a real drag to have spent $100 or more on a new coil only to find that your safety tether had a bad connection. The key to effectively troubleshooting electrical systems is to have a solid understand of their operation. Only then can one efficiently narrow down what the faulty component is. To aid in that process, the technical folks at ORC have decided to put together a three-part "electrical systems" series to cover the three most basic systems of the typical ATV: ignition, charging, and starting. To kick off the series, the first installment handles the most important: ignition. Of course, the primary purpose of the ignition system is to create a spark. Years ago, a fellow named Kettering came up with a pretty good way to make a spark. Very basically, his invention consisted of two sets of finely wound copper wire - commonly referred to as the ignition "coil" -.that when powered with electricity on one winding would create a sudden jolt, or spark, of electricity on the other when the electrical power is interrupted. To keep up with a spinning engine, the electrical power is switched on and off via a contact switch that's controlled by a cam lobe driven by the engine. Pretty darn simple, and pretty darn easy to diagnose with basic tools. However, this conventional "breaker" or points-type ignition had reliability issues and was limited to low rpm applications. Enter the age of high tech electronics: integrated circuits, transistorized ignitions, and CDI... The good news is that CDI, or capacitor discharge ignition, was all that points-type ignitions weren't - they had no moving or wearing parts, could produce a heck of a spark, and could run very high speed. Bad news is that the ignition system now became a "black box", both literally and metaphorically. No spark? Might as well start swapping parts until you the spark magically reappears. Not a bad proposition for a dealer that has parts sitting on the shelf he can try with no obligation. But to spend a hundred non-refundable dollars on simply a hunch is a tough pill to swallow. Schematic of a typical CDI ignition system Fortunately, we can break down the operation of the CDI to some basic circuits - the guzzinta's and the guzzouta's (inputs and outputs). Whereas the points-type ignition has only two circuits (power and ground), the CDI has 5 primary circuits. On the guzzinta side we have the obligatory duo of power and ground, but with the added complexity of a circuit to tell the CDI when to fire (trigger circuit), and another to tell if to fire (kill circuit). What's left is the only circuit on the guzzouta side: the power to the ignition coil (fire circuit). So let's discuss those circuits and their possible failure modes. The CDI's ground (DC negative) is always connected and provides the connection back to the engine's own voltage ground point or reference, which is the same reference the spark plug uses when creating a spark. The key piece of info here is that wherever the CDI makes its ground connection has to be essentially the same ground reference as the spark plug - make sure there's clean metal all the way between the two connection points, and virtually no resistance (ohms). If the CDI makes its ground connection at the frame up near the gas tank, be assured that the circuit from there is good all the way back the cylinder head. Don't rely on a ground connection through engine mounts. They can be intermittent, dirty, corroded, rubber-bushed, or painted. Proper grounding would dictate a ground strap from the engine directly to the wire harness. Next thing we need is a way to power the CDI. Some CDI's are powered by 12vdc from the machine's electrical system, but most others generate the requisite electrical power from an exciter coil underneath the flywheel. As the magnet on the flywheel passes the exciter coil, electrical current is generated and in the case of a Capacitor Discharge Ignition or CDI, that charge is stored temporarily in a capacitor for a split second until the CDI is told to fire. Since the CDI is already tied to ground, there's only a single wire connecting the exciter coil to the CDI. To check this voltage produced by the exciter is tricky because it requires the engine to be turning. An electric starter can produce the necessary crank rotation, but diagnosis by means of kick starting is difficult since the output voltage varies with engine speed. To check, use a digital voltmeter (DVM) and set to AC scale. Connect one DVM lead to the exciter output wire, and the other to case ground. Most shop manuals will list a minimum AC voltage for both running and starting. Be CAREFUL when testing, the output from the exciter coil can reach 200 volts! The power stored in the CDI's internal capacitor needs to be put to work, but the key to proper engine performance is doing it at the right time. That's where the pulse generator comes into play. Again, underneath the flywheel lies yet another magnet and coil combo, but the sole purpose of these two is to precisely identify to the CDI the position of the crankshaft. That is, it tells the brain box where the piston is and therefore when to fire. Basically, the CDI waits around for the pulse generator to tell it that the piston has just hit some point before TDC, and then waits the appropriate amount of time (dependent on rpm and spark advance) before energizing the guzzouta circuit that sends power to the well-recognized ignition coil. This circuit is diagnosed similarly to the exciter coil above, but instead connect your DVM to the pulse generator output. The voltage is much less and should be listed in your manual. The last CDI circuit is the "kill circuit" which is how the CDI knows to quench the spark and kill the engine. Typically this circuit is switched to ground, and some CDI's require this circuit to be closed, while others require it to be open for engine shutdown. Most safety tethers, kill switches, and ignition switches utilize this circuit to control engine operation. The easiest way to troubleshoot a no-spark malfunction is to pull the spark plug and check for spark by unplugging this circuit. If no spark, then connect a ground wire directly between engine ground and this circuit (on the CDI box side). If still no spark, the problem is likely with another circuit. To complete the whole ignition system, we still need to produce enough voltage to jump a spark across a 1mm gap, inside a running engine. This part of the system hasn't changed much over the years - it's still a good ole ignition coil with a small wire going in, and fat one going out. It's a little different since we no longer have 12vdc going in, but rather nearly 10x that!. It also requires a good ground connection so insure that there's no corrosion, mud, or paint separating the mating connections. Although it's easy to blame coils for electrical problems since it's difficult to test (resistance checks are not always reliable), they are not commonly known to be failure prone. More likely is a bad spark plug cap or connection to the fat plug wire. With some coils passing as much as 60,000 volts make sure your plug wire and cap has no exposed breaks or possible leak paths that water can penetrate. When the coil fires it will seek the path of least resistance, and if there's a way for 60,000 volts to get to ground easier than through a compressed air-fuel mixture (spark plug gap), it'll take it. And water does that job quite nicely.

Just following up on this thread. I had a similar issue and found that my battery was weak. I replaced the battery and problem solved. This was ofcourse during the cold winter months. You should also check to make sure your starter is not over drawing from your battery.

I'm thinking 1-2 jet sizes from stock, but not 100% sure. Maybe check with the manufacturer. * Removed your other thread as it was a duolicate.

Helmet and whatever outdoor clothing..jacket, jeans, etc. If it's real cold, I wear a snow suit or ski suit with helmet and heated visor. When it's snowig...here's ny gear: More Pictures in my gallery..

I would go with the Dynojet recommendations for that engine. As long as you can access the adjustment screw, you should be able to do it with the carb on. You are right, the instructions tell you to use a flat head: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/Q623.pdf

The Haro Bullster Street ATV Quad Article By: Robert Boop Want to go for an exhilarating lap around downtown? The Haro Bullster sports a brand new approach to the ATV quad formula. The gravelled road has been abandoned for rubber-gripping tarmac. Our aim has been to conceive and develop a full-focused street quad. With the Bullster our vision has materialized. From its compact fuel-injected Euro 3 approved four-stroke engine to its fully independent suspension and rear axle differential, there are no compromises. The shocks are fully adjustable. Disc brakes front and back. Free to choose components from the very best suppliers worldwide, we offer the ultimate in motoring excitement and accessibility. A race quad for the road, the Bullster still has a price tag that will leave money to top up the fuel tank. Engine: Four stroke single cylinder Cylinder: Light alloy cylinder Bore/Stroke: 90 mm/78 mm Displacement: 497 cc Power: 38 hp (21 hp) @ 6500 rpm Torque: 40 Nm @ 4500 rpm Valves per cylinder: 4 Timing system: SOHC, chain drive Compression ratio: 10 Max rev.: 7500 rpm Cooling system: Liquid cooled with pump, fan Fuel system: EFI Lubrication: Wet sump Ignition: Electronic CDI with TPS Anti-vibration: Countershaft Clutch: Automatic centrifugal clutch Transmission: CVT-V belt drive & automatic speed variator and park, reverse Final drive: Shaft drive Engine brake: Yes Start in gear: Yes Emission: Euro 3 (2002/51/EC)/2006 US EPA Drivetrain: Final drive: Shaft with rear diff. Transmission: P/R/N/D Drive system: CVT EBS (Engine Braking System): Optional Suspension: Front suspension: Independant, double A-arm, 5 stage preload settings, Option: adjustable oil/gas-damped, continuously preload settings. Rear suspension: Independant, double A-arm, 5 stage preload settings, Option: adjustable oil/gas-damped, continuously preload settings. Brakes: Front & rear: Dual 200 mm hydraulic disc Contributing partners: prototypes by CEIIA. Tires: Front: 195/45R15 Rear: 215/40R16 Dimensions/Capacities: Wheelbase: 1280 mm Dry Weight: 270 kg Fuel capacity: 17 L Ground clearance: 137 mm Instrumentation/Features: Gauge Type: Digital Speedometer/Odometer: Standard Tachometer: Standard Tripmeter: Standard Hourmeter: Standard High beam indicator: Standard Gear indicator: Standard Fuel gauge: Electric Warning lights: Hi temp/Oil pressure

I like that idea, but then people with only one atv cannot enter the contest..

Welcome back!

Well, It's that time of year again! I've updated my page, check it out: Ajmboy 's ATV Page: Looking For the BEST Ride! QUADCRAZY ATV Community If you guys want a quick and easy way to change your profile layouts, use the myspace converter: MySpace Converter Then paste the myspace converted code into your advanced css box in your design section. Make sure you use regular myspace codes, not the 2.0. It converts it as best as possible, but beats doing it color by color. Any myspace profile site should work. Here's a bunch of Christmas Themes: Christmas Myspace Layouts, Christmas Layouts For Myspace, Myspace Christmas Layouts, Premade Christmas Myspace Layouts

I didn't realize this, but there is a whole section in the Photo Gallery: Landscape ATV Riding Photos QUADCRAZY ATV Community A couple that I liked:

Yeah you can get some crazy deals, like the desktop I'm on now for $400! I love this 19" widescreen monitor that came with it! I posted my purchase in the thread below: http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/general-talk-anything-goes/2584-black-friday-shopping.html

Got this in the mail today. It's good until December 15th. Free shipping on orders over $99! ATV Parts, ATV Tires, Dirt Bike Parts & Motocross Gear - Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Spend $100 get $10 off CODE: #2501 Spend $150 get $20 off CODE: #2502 Spend $300 get $50 off CODE: #2503 Spend $500 get $100 off CODE: #2504 Happy Holidays!

Does he have the GPScape? 2009 FourTrax Rincon Innovations - Honda Powersports

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! What type of Suzuki (I'm assuming) atv are you riding?

LOL...is that a Christmas Ball? Or a large Mistletoe...

This was taken a couple of years back on top of a reservoir damn.

Nice site. I like the look up by atv and tire size checker. Keep us posted on specials.

I can't believe that. Do you have any clue on who did this? Do you live in an area where this happens allot? What did they take off it, I see some plastic missing. How old where the people who did it? You need to get a shotgun or something! :shoot:

Welcome to the community! Try Motosport: ATV TANK SADDLE BAG MOSSY

It was pretty funny....

Welcome to the community! All great advice posted. In your price range, it will be difficult to find something new with what you need. I went from a Kawasaki Bayou 220, to a Yamaha Kodiak 450, to a Suzuki King Quad 700 all within 3 years, because I just felt like I out grew them one by one. I've had plenty of passengers even on the Bayou, but nothing carried 2 passengers better than more power and 4WD. Eventually you'll want to ride solo. I would probably try and find a used 450-550 4WD utility atv to start. You should be able to find something decent for under 3k. I think that if you go with anything lower than that with 2 people, you will regret it, when it comes time to climb those hills and cross those streams. I would search on Craigslist. Here are some pics for $2-3500 in your area: 2005 honda rancher 350 Suzuki Quad Master 500 4x4 auto 2004 Honds Rancher 400 ATV (LIKE NEW) - $3500 2005 HONDA FOREMAN 500-------MUST SELL!!!!

Interesting and some good points, clearly written by a firearm advocate. My opinion is, if you have a gun loaded in your house, you are more likely to use it..

Welcome Brett! Go to your account section or just click on this link: Change Profile Picture