Ajmboy

Welcome to QUADCRAZY!

I agree, it sounds like a possible reason, just like on a car. I'm not familiar with the setup on that atv, but I would check that and whatever else there may be that is electrical and controls fuel flow. See if there is a fuel pump relay or injector relay, pressure regulator, etc.

I 3rd that...good info!

That would probably take up allot of room, you can see the new posts here: NEW POSTS

Welcome to QUADCRAZY!

Nice, I just saw you uploaded that and I was wondering why...until I saw your sig!

I just did the same thing. It will also link to the image page. Nice and easy.

Everybody should upload their pictures: WINTER RIDING

I bet you that shaft is coming out of the end plate bracket. Good luck with it!

Welcome to QUADCRAZY bumpercarkid!

Welcome to QUADCRAZY!

I've seen those before, that is a great solution. Do you use ramps off the back or just lift the bikes up?

I used to own an 04 Kodiak 450, loved it. I had a similar issue that ended up getting worse. If it's been yours since new, with low milegae, my guess is that it sits for a while at times. What might be happening is, the float needle is corroded, causing the float not to rise up to where it should be, starving it with gas at low idle. Common problem on those carbs. I've attached a parts diagram for you from Yamaha. You can check this site for part #'s: My Yamaha Prompt - Parts Catalog You can take it out and check it for corrossion. Make sure the float moves freely. Yamaha_Kodiak_450.pdf

Happy New Year!

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! What kind of trails did you find up there, state land? I've ridden outside of Amsterdam, Broadalbin, Johnstown...allot of state land up there. You should take a ride and check out the Lake George area in the spring TrailPass - Lake George

Welcome to QUADCRAZY!

Welcome to the site! Are you using the IMAGE Button: , then entering the url of the picture?

These tips were pulled form a Cannondale site and relate more to Cannondale ATVs. I should have just posted there. I moved the thead into the Cannondale section. Stud Updates: Cannondaler :: Info Center

Good Point. Edited.

Get your winter riding pictures up, there's been snowfall all over the country. Lets' see some pics. Make sure you upload to the gallery winter section: Winter ATV Riding, Snow, Ice, Frozen Lakes QUADCRAZY ATV Community Thre are only 5 pics there, 3 are mine... Upload your pics HERE * Make sure you choose "Winter Riding" I don't have any pics yet this year, wasn't able to get out...but below is one of my favorites from last year..(some of you already seen this) In the snow on our ATV

Aha...for some reaosn I thought the question was it belt driven. Now, from personal experience, when you have belt slippage or issues, low end will not work.

No problem..

These are tech tips compiled fron various posts on various boards, very useful information for new owners! · When changing oil take the fill plug out to let the frame drains flow faster and let the drain for ten minutes or so to get it all out. It also helps totip the quad on its side to aid drainage and prevent oil from running between engine and skid plate. · Also tip the quad when reinstalling tranny filter. Gravity will keep the filter in the bolt. Don't ever force it! · Use a 6 point wrench on the aluminum drain plugs to keep from rounding them off. · Always use antiseaze on the transmission drain bolt. · Do not over fill your quads oil . Even a couple of ounces will blow out all over your air filter. · You have to do the engine stud updates now, do not put it off . If one of these bolts come out you will pay dearly. Its not that hard and kind of fun (at least for me) · Make sure to check your battery connections because if they are loose the ecm with cause all sorts of weird running problems. And load test the battery once in a while to be sure of quick starts and prevent plug fouling. · Use star lock washers between your battery terminals and you battery · Don’t turn the idle down because you think its idling to fast. 2200 to 2300 is where it should be. If you have trouble starting it and it starts easier if you give it just a little gas chances are its to set to low. · If you run in mud a lot turn your headlights off. If they are caked with mud they will heat up the housings and deform the lenses. · If you need to get the flywheel off and dont have a puller cruise over to your local stihl chainsaw dealer ,the puller they use on the larger chainsaws works on our cannons. They did mine for free but I purchased the puller anyway afterwards. Part number is 1106 890 4501 A · When starting let it run for at least 2 minutes to burn the raw fuel off the plug before shutdown to help prevent fouling it. · Dont panic and overthink the problems if they occur , I thought my engine blew chucks while hauling the mail down a dirt road and it backfired and came to a stop. Turned out just a plugged fuel filter from a dirty gas can. Im glad they are see through. · Replace those steel fender screws with some stainless steel ones(couple bucks) · Buy a D&M kit the basic one is only $300 and if you ever have a problem you will save countless hours asking questions, hunting dealers, and generally being in a bad mood when you could have diagnosed your problem in just a few minutes. That also goes for getting the free service and parts manuals available on this page. · Inside the fuel tank fitting is a stainless steel strainer ,mine was plugged tight with the nastiest brown goo. While your checking it it is a good time to install new o-rings on the fitting shut off valve. a size r-01 seems to fit good. The one that swells is not the one you can see when you disconnect the quick coupler. · There is a mini tach from Track Master Inc Part number tr99 that you can install on the quad to check your idle speed if your don’t want to buy the D&M kit. It installs without cutting into the wiring harness because it is a self contained ,waterproof with inductive pickup that you just need to wrap the wire around the coil to make it work. · Don't leave the key in the on position, for some reason it draws down the battery · Use Di-electric grease on all of the electrical connections. Just pull the connectors apart and fill them with the stuff. · If you have access to the Maintenance & Diagnostics kit, reset the throttle position and idle regularly - I do it about every oil change. · Keep an eye on the rear hubs, they tend to loosen up and they will strip out · Check the swingarm buffer (chain slide) often, I've seen a few that where never checked and the chain had eaten holes in the swingarm. · Pull the a-arms and grease up the bushings really good once in awhile, they don't have much grease from the factory and bind up. · Pull the swingarm and clean/grease up the pivot bearings good at least once a year, the seals tend to leak and the bearings will rust. · For oil changes, tip the quad on it's side to aid drainage and prevent oil from running between engine and skid plate. · Reroute the tranny vent line up by the airbox if you play in deep water. · Do replace your worn tie rod ends with something other than stock. · Never throw away old parts. · Always keep fuel filters and gas line quick connect orings on hand. · Always use locktite on sprocket bolts and visually inspect before every ride · NevRDull and a fine ScotchBrite pad works wonders on that state of the art ALUMINUM frame. · Counter sink your tranny filter bolt so it will help self centering the filter · Always pull your fuse if you are working anywhere near your fuel pump you will short it out if you touch it with something · If you install nerf bars make sure you lube the holes in the frame with lots of antisieze or you will never get the bars out because they will gall in. · Dont let morons on your quad that dont have a clue how to start it because chances are they will get out of sight and stall it and try starting it like their quad and crank the snot out of it while pumping the throttle "personal experience"

Carburetor Theory Whether carbureted or injected, the fuel system is designed to provide the optimum mixture of air and fuel to the engine under varying conditions. This optimum air/fuel ratio (do not call it the fuel/air ratio!) is called the stoichiometric ratio and in theory is approximately 14.7 parts of air to 1 part gasoline (14.7:1) based on weight, not volume. However, this air/fuel ratio must be modified under different atmospheric and running conditions. A ratio numerically higher than 14.7 would be considered a lean air/fuel mixture, numerically less than 14.7 would be considered a rich mixture. There are several principles of physics that affect the design of carburetors. Among these are; a liquid will take the shape of the container it is in liquids are not compressible liquid in two containers joined with a passageway will be at the same level if the atmospheric pressure above them is the same air will flow from a high pressure area to a low pressure area to try and equalize the imbalance air flowing through a restriction in a passageway (the venturi of a carburetor) will increase in speed and decreases in pressure at the point of restriction a liquid can be atomized and vaporized There are three basic types of carburetors, fixed venturi, mechanical slide and constant velocity (CV). Despite their differences, they all use the Venturi Principle which states that air flowing through a restriction will increase in speed and decrease in pressure. It is the decrease in pressure in the carburetor venturi that allows atmospheric pressure to push fuel into the venturi through passageways that are machined into the carburetor body. These passageways contain jets that control the amount of flow through them. In order to burn properly and efficiently, the fuel must be first atomized (broken down into a fine mist) and then vaporized, that is, changed from a liquid to a vapor. When the air/fuel mist enters the combustion chamber, engine heat helps vaporize the fuel. However, when the engine is cold the fuel does not vaporize as completely, so we must supply more fuel so that enough of it is vaporized for the engine to run. This is the purpose of the cold start mechanism (commonly called the choke) used on carbureted engines. Carburetor Cold Start Mechanisms There are currently two type of cold start mechanisms used in carburetors, the choke plate and the enrichener. The choke plate pivots to block off some of the incoming air, while the enrichener adds more fuel. Both methods result in the same condition, that is, a rich mixture in the neighborhood of 3:1. A fuel injection system does this by automatically increasing injector duration, which is how long the injector sprays fuel into the combustion chamber. The longer the injector duration, the more fuel is sprayed into the engine and the richer the mixture. Running a carbureted engine that is at or close to operating temperature with the cold start mechanism on will result in a rich mixture when it isn't needed and can result in fouled spark plugs. Carburetor Circuits Carburetors are mechanical/hydraulic/pneumatic devices that have several functions. They allow us to change engine speed by allowing more or less air/fuel mixture to enter the engine, they help atomize the fuel for better vaporization, and they provide varying air/fuel ratios under different throttle positions. For an engine at operating temperature, there are three basic fuel circuits. Pilot Circuit Also known as the idle circuit or the slow speed circuit, it controls the air/fuel mixture while the engine is idling and up to about 1/8 throttle opening (it also flows fuel at larger throttle openings but the effect is negligible). Because of the small amount of fuel that is required at idle speeds, the pilot fuel passageway is restricted by the pilot jet. Carburetor jets (of any type) are usually made out of brass and come in different sizes. A number is stamped on the jet during manufacturing, the larger the number the larger the opening in the pilot jet and the richer the mixture would be. Because of the very small size of the opening in a pilot jet, is can easily be blocked by dirt, rust, stale fuel deposits or other debris. When this happens, the engine will not idle properly and the carburetor(s) will have to be removed, disassembled and cleaned. Mid-range Circuit As we open the throttle to accelerate, the carburetor allows more air to enter the engine, and there must be a corresponding increase in the amount of fuel flow. In most cases, this is accomplished by the use of a slide and jet needle, whether it is a mechanically operated slide or a vacuum operated slide. The jet needle raises and lowers with the slide and fits into a brass tube called the needle jet. Do not get confused between the two, the jet needle moves up and down while the needle jet is stationary in the body of the carburetor. The jet needle is tapered so that as it is raised in the needle jet, there is more space between the two and more fuel is allowed to flow. This circuit regulates the air/fuel mixture primarily from 1/8 throttle to about 3/4 throttle. Main Circuit As the throttle is opened approaching full throttle, the carburetor allows even more air to enter the engine and the main jet now controls the amount of fuel that is supplied. As with the pilot jet, it is usually made of brass, comes in different sizes and has a number stamped on it. Again, the larger the number, the larger the opening and the more fuel is supplied for a richer mixture. Larger main jets are often required with changes to the intake and exhaust of the engine. The opening in a main jet is much larger than a pilot jet and is less likely to be blocked or restricted. This circuit regulates the air/fuel mixture primarily from 3/4 throttle to wide open throttle.

I believe it's a belt, was that the question?