Kaz

That key is from the magneto rotor/crank shaft. That’s what I found when I pulled it. And as far as the problem now-the shifter feels normal, the indicator lights function normally. But I can’t get the damn thing to shift out of neutral. It acts like it does, sounds and feels like it does, but doesn’t. To be honest, this thing was free to me 10+ years ago and I’m tired of dumping $$ into it. Shifter is back on the shaft exactly as I marked it before taking it apart. Obviously something else is broken too-I have no idea what and not much desire to find out. If I need to check the linkage in the case I had apart, that’s another $20 in oil wasted-again. Unless this is an easy fix, this thing will be headed for the junk yard. Thanks for all the help along the way!!!

Dug a little farther and found this woodruff key. OK got a new one. Finally got it back together and it’s stuck in neutral. Dash lights up for reverse and neutral, lights go out when I shift into 1st, but that’s it. Why did I miss/screw up this time?

Finally had time to work on this again. I found a missing tooth on the starter idle gear set-pic attached. This is obviously where the chunk came from that damaged the magneto. I assembled it w this gear set, and a new magneto/coil set, just to see if it ran, and it started right up, ran well. I have the gear set on order n will do final assembly after it gets here. Thanks again for all the advice.

I did not take the time to test for output again. I had previously read the output of the rectifier, but with this much damage, I’ll replace it all. If you look carefully, in the housing directly below the magneto coil, there are a few chunks of metal, from the coil itself, I’d guess. I really can’t tell where it came from originally, or how it broke, but right now important thing is it looks like I found the issue. Better pic of magneto below. I was able to pick up a new magneto and coils cheap enough that I’m not going to reuse these. The mag coil is pretty ugly. I was able to smooth the rotor pretty well w some 800 then 1200 sand paper, not going to replace it. I’ll clean everything well, then rebuild. I’ll post the outcome when I finally get it done. Thanks again!!

I finally had some time to tear this thing apart. This is what I found. I’d say the magneto is trashed. But what about the rotor? Can I just de-burr it the best I can and go w it? I do not have a puller to fit it unless I break out a big as* slide hammer. I realize I might destroy it w that but if I have to replace it so what? Thanks in advance for any advice!

2 rectangular. An 8 pin w 7 used and a 4 pin w 3 used.

Thanks for the comments, tips. Didn’t have a chance to work on it today, but will soon. Attached is the electrical schematic I have for it, pick up and source coil resistances in upper right. I’ve checked the brake switch, the gear position switch, the start/stop switch. They all check out. By the way-if one of them isn’t right, the starter won’t have power when I press the start button, so I’m pretty sure they’re all ok. I’ve tried 2 ignition coils, have another but hesitant to install it. I’ll ohm it out n post results when I can. Thanks again!

Thanks for the tips-I went the ‘budget route’ for the cdi, for now. $60 vs close to $500. I have a couple pretty high end Fluke meters-I do see some voltage on the orange wire while using min/max mode, but not a lot. I’ll recheck all wires n connections tomorrow-I have a new stator n voltage rectifier being delivered that I’ll install. If I still have no spark, and everything checks out, I guess I’ll either buy a new cdi or rig up a cheap generic one for testing. I just have a feeling that when I do find the issue, it’ll turn out to be something I should’ve noticed already. I think I know the answer, but would the type of engine oil have anything at all to do w the stator n coils? I recently put STP 10W-30 high mileage oil in it, but if understand how the stator system is set up, I dont think it should matter. I’ll post again after I finish the stator install. Thanks again!

Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!