Snick

Chuck, did you freeze the bearing and heat the part (mildly) that receives the bearing?

Last one I am testing is the TRC 9745. Idle (1600) has 23 degrees where 3800RPM has about 80 degrees. Overall the purple 6 pin CDI is the best replacement option at about $13 to replace the Suzuki 32900-24510.

"New Racing C.D.I." (blue non-adjustable) is about 80 degrees at idle (1600RPM) with little to no change when increasing engine speed. I tried two of these as the timing was so ridiculous on the first one; they are both ridiculous.

Seems to have full power with the purple adjustable CDI set to the least aggressive timing (counter-clockwise). I think it is still too much timing, but this is way better than the 22degree static $8 CDI. Still waiting on 2 CDIs and will update again when I get some timing info from them.

It has full revs with the purple adjustable CDI, unlike the $8 CDI (static 22 degrees) where the engine falls off about 3/4 throttle. Have two more coils in the mail to check timing curve on before I take out for test runs. I hesitate to say it runs well without test driving. Worried the advance is too much on the purple one, but I will just keep a eye on the jug temp. I haven't noticed any bearing noises this far ( about 3 miles) and I don't see any smoke. 6000 mile machine.

Got the adjustable purple CDI and did some more testing. It actually has a curve, which was a surprise. When adjusted fully counter-clockwise it has about 20 degrees at 1600 RPM and 54 degrees at 3800 RPM. I chose 3800 as that is what is reported in the LT 250 E (85-86) service manual. However, the curve just continues to the moon and can achieve 60+ degrees as the engine speed increases beyond 3800.

I would test coil first. Simple ohm/impedance check. EDIT: Also check kill and key switches. Continuity test,

Gun is great for checking ignition modules. Shocking how unreliable the GM ICMs are.

Looks like this Gy6 CDI is 22degrees at idle and 24ish thereafter using my HF light. I guess that is all we can expect for $8. At least the GY6 gets these back on the trails at a reasonable price.

This is what I alluded to in my previous comment. This is from my LT250E manual, so it does not apply to your engine, but you get the idea.

The guy from France got back to me and I am not sure I understand what he means. He posted this pic and asked "How much is the advance timing?" I told him the manual reports "timing is 10 BTDC when less than 1700RPM and 35 BTDC when greater than 3800RPM" and asked if the timing for the two points could be set to match that profile. Got a little language barrier here.

OK, I need to update after the warmed-up test ride. It runs good until about 3/4 throttle, but it really needs more timing after that. Idles OK. I guess one of these $8 CDIs can get you by, I just don't think the $8 CDI is the solution. Waiting to hear back from the guy from France to see if that might work at $54...I think/hope it will as it can be programmed for two timing points, which is what the manual shows for this machine. Will see what I can get from the adjustable Chinese CDIs.

OK, when this started I had 2 problems at the same time. Main power wire from battery (fused line) was damaged with an intermittent connection when turning handle bars, which I solved. Then, I thought CDI was the problem given the screwdriver smack fixed the CDI a couple times but the problem this time was the chineses carburetor. It was acting up at idle and run good at higher RPMs, so I pulled the carb and bowl...and the low-speed jet fell out! Ugh...and I almost pulled the bowl before I installed it. $8 CDI works fine on this machine.

One video I ran across showing the "racing" CDI has 25 degrees of timing at idle all the time. That should at least get a good idle and decent running machine based on the the timing stated in the manual.

This looks promising with 2 programmable timing curves: https://transmic.fr/product/analog-ac-cdi-v28p/

Looks like timing is 10BTDC <1700RPM and 35BTDC>3800RPM

Gwbarm, did you try an adjustable?

OK, runs really bad with chinese cdi Gy6 that I thought and hope is dead. Having to hold throttle open a bit to get it to run. Will pull carb and clean just for good measure even though replaced with clean tank, new lines and fuel filter a week ago. Will have a couple new CDI boxes in a few days so I can do more testing. Wiring is blk/red to magneto coil pin 6 and green and orange to pins 1 and 3 on CDI where polarity (+ and -) does not matter.

Started with the GY6 and the ultimate "FLYPIG" (lol I am not kidding) Racing CDI for $10 to see what happens since they are so cheap. Sounds like Gwbarm has already been through these though. Oh well, I can validate GWbarm for only $20. Found some that are programmable for are $55 but from France. Thanks for the replies. Is the ignitor to the Green and orange wire in my schematic and the Blk/Red to the magneto coil? Confusing as it seems the "ignitor" is actually "charging"/powering the CDI box and the magento (blk/red wire) actually sends the signal to fire the coil on pin 2. I would really like to find a replacement solution to the 32900-24510 CDI given the ridiculous pricing.

That is probably it.

Can't get my 1985 VIN to work. Maybe some only go back so far.

Depends on environmental temperatures. Generally I follow the manual and the viscosity that covers the largest range of ambient operating temperatures. I think 5w30, but maybe 10w40.

Maybe cam chain failed? See if valves moving when you turn engine by hand.

Free boats are the most expensive, let's hope the free ATV/Quads are not the same I would check chain and get it on a jack and see what is going on.