lester

I figured it out, the linkage was out of adjustment. It shifts fine now. Kind of hard to get out of reverse, but I can live with that. Thanks for all of the suggestions!

Mech, I got this without it running, have done a lot to get it running, so I don't know if there were any problems previously or not.

Well, here's the latest (LOL). It runs and sounds great, the only problem now is that I can't get it to go in gear! It goes right into reverse and into neutral, but when I try to go into first, it won't go. I've been trying to adjust the clutch but I'm not having any success so far. I would love some suggestions. It has set awhile so could they possibly be stuck together?

Here is the latest and the greatest. It came down to testing the CDI and it turned out to be the culprit. Now after looking at the ridiculous price that is wanted for one, I looked at some 2000-2001 Kodiak CDI's on Ebay that were only 20-30 dollars, so I contacted them and asked if it would work on my 2000 Big Bear, and of course they all replied no. I went ahead and printed off a copy of the wiring diagram of a 2000-2001 YMF400 Big Bear 400 Kodiak, and guess what? All of the necessary connections for the 2000 Big Bear are Identical to the Kodiak! So, I went to Amazon (because I have an account there) and bought one for $23.59 (AIVWUMOT-Ignition-Control-5GH-85540-00-00), figured "well for that price I guess I can give it a try". Well, it works great, and it is up and running. Thanks for everyone's help it was greatly appreciated!

Yes, both batteries that I have for it test good and they are both the correct AGM batteries for the BB.

Yes, Ill check it out, thanks.

By the way, the starter solenoid plug is loose and in pretty bad shape and the solenoid is just a 20-amp instead of a 30-amp, so I have ordered a new plug and 30-amp solenoid. I just think it needed to be done.

Oh, well I messed up and tried to start it with them on. But now, it doesn't have any electrical power at all so I can't turn the headlights on. I have started doing a voltage drop test but had to stop and do other things. I'll get back to it when I can.

MECH.. I said, "Tried to start it with the headlights on and it immediately went electronically dead." I also said "Well, now I don't even get power to the starter, ARGH! Got any dynamite?" lol

There is power to the starter solenoid and through the solenoid until the electrical fails then the power does not go through the starter solenoid anymore. The plug is loose to the starter solenoid, and it is only 20 amps. I have ordered a 30-amp starter solenoid with a new plug to see if it helps or solves the problem. I have tested the starter a few times and it always tests good.

Well, now I don't even get power to the starter, ARGH! Got any dynamite?

Tried to start it with the headlights on and it immediately went electronically dead.

So, what would be making the starter relay trip?

Okay, without the regulator connected it does the same thing. I checked after it loses the electrical power and found out that the starter relay assembly has power to it but not to the plugin, to continue power through it, until it eventually resets. Where do I go from here? If it's not the regulator or the stator and it's cranking fine, so I don't think that the starter is a problem, is it probable that it is the CDI unit?

Will do. Probably be Sunday before I get a chance to do it.

So, it will start without the regulator/rectifier plugged in? I will give that a try. I also thought I might just start it, let it run until electrical stops and then start checking the electrical starting from the battery and working forward. Or do you have other suggestions after I try it without the regulator/rectifier plugged in?

I'm wondering if the stator would do this? I tested it and got these results; Connecting to CDI magneto coupler Pickup coil: Meter (+) lead to white/green wire & meter (-) lead to white/red wire = 524 (within specifications) Charging/rotor: Meter (+) lead to red wire & meter (-) lead to white/blue wire = 000 (out of specifications) Charging coil resistance: Meter (+) lead to white 1 wire & meter (-) lead to white 2 or 3 wire = @2k =000 @200 = 6 (out of specifications)

I didn't have to replace the neutral switch, it seems to be working now, and I have replaced the battery. I have also replaced the starter relay assembly, both of the other relay assemblies, and the engine start run off headlight switch.

Next question. I got it to start but it will only run for maybe about a minute (if I'm lucky) then it will die and has absolutely no electrical power at all, none, nada, nill, NONE. Sometimes it only takes a few minutes for it to regain electrical power, other times it takes hours, but it still will only run for maybe a minute and then has no electrical power. Suggestions?

Oh, good grief! I think that all is good for now. Thanks for all of the help.

I replaced the starter solenoid and both relays in the battery compartment, as well as the engine start / run / off headlight switch. Yes, I am pressing the hand brake in order to crank the engine in neutral. Yes, as soon as I start to crank the engine the neutral light comes on, just not before I start cranking. Yes, the plugs are exactly the same shapes and colors as the wiring diagram for the 2000-2001BB400. The pedal is just barely off with the light, just a slight movement will light up the light, that is why I am asking if there is an adjustment.

Replaced a few electrical parts and it cranks now! Is there a way to adjust the neutral light? The green light comes on when cranking the engine, but not when in neutral (unless you hold the foot pedal in a certain position.

Sorry I haven't got back, I have been busy and haven't had a chance to work on it for a few days. I will get back when I get a chance to work on it some more.

Also, I'm using my multimeter turned to ground mode (it beeps instead of a light) because I don't have a good testing light. And I tested to the colored wires that you specified.

Sorry, I was testing at the plug-ins to the CDI. I'll check again and let you know.