ranchhelper

The kit arrived. It is the All Balls Racing rear axle kit. It currently sells under $50. Comes with both bearings and both seals, although whatever photos you see online, do not show both seals, they only show one seal. I used the digital calipers, and the measurements of the bearings, and the seals, are exactly as described in the previous post. The kit is found by searching for YAMAHA 87-95 YFM350 BIG BEAR. The ALL BALLS part # AB251010. Detail on lablel calls it 'Wheel Bearing Kit Rear Yamaha YFM250 Moto-4 89-91, YFM350ER Moto-4 87-95, YFM350FW 87-95.' The larger bearing has no seal. The smaller bearing is sealed.

The kits for that year range, have both bearings but only have 1 seal. The other seal is not available, not from Partzilla. I will compare the measurements above, with the two bearings and one seal. If they match, I'll find the remaining seal that matches those measurements and post my results.

Has anyone spec'd out the rear bearing and seals? Not by yamaha part number but by actual size. So I spend $15 for the bearing instead of $55 ea x2 https://en.50factory.com/parts news/86356-bearings-and-seals-rear-wheel-yamaha-big-bear-350-moose-racing.html Right bearing dimensions: 50x80x21 mm Inner diameter of the bearing: 50 mm Outer diameter of the bearing: 80 mm Bearing Thickness: 21mm Left bearing dimensions: 40x70x15 mm Inner diameter of the bearing: 40 mm Outer diameter of the bearing: 70 mm Bearing Thickness: 15mm Dimensions of a spi seal: 56x80,5x7 mm Inner diameter of the oil seal: 56 mm Outer diameter of the oil seal: 80.5 mm Oil seal thickness: 7 mm Dimensions of a spi seal: 46x70x8 mm Inner diameter of the oil seal: 46 mm Outer diameter of the oil seal: 70 mm Oil seal thickness: 8 mm

> does it go up or down or in and out.. Axle bearings are bad. I don't even want the disappointment of test driving it, but the motor runs fine. Shifts good etc. Here's a how-to I watched: That's close enough, to figure out whatever small differences there are. That Ebay vendor gave no part #'s. Those look like the ones for the 89, but they are selling them as for the 87-88. Hard to believe they are different, but mech would know. This will be ordered soon next month, and I'd like to order all those parts at the same time. I guess Partzilla has the pads and shoes if I get stumped, and there's no reason to split the order between them and ebay. Order all the bearing parts, the brakes, the 1x clamp, some o-ring material for the box. The official o-ring material is $15... it's good enough to have anything that will seal it, and be reusable in that gap. Does anyone sell seats? 😄

I'm guessing from this 89' diagram I need the following to fix the axle play: 2HR-W0045-09-00 Rear axle right side dust cover 93399-99913-00 Rear bearing, right side 3306-00809-00 Bearing, left side 93210-40740-00 O-Ring 93102-46377-00 Oil seal, Left side 1YW-25367-00-00 Dust cover, left side To do the brakes, I need: 4BD-W2536-01-00 front brake shoes 2HR-W0045-09-00 rear brake pads https://www.ebay.com/itm/271396668162 - they do not list what the part numbers are. Would like to hear replies if these are correct or I need to get something else.

Made this a couple of days ago. Noticed brake issues in the rear and play in the rear axle. Would like any helpful advice on replacement of the rear axle bearings, and replacement of the pads. Part #'s etc.

Here is a clearer diagram of the filterbox and hoses. The part with the rubber hoses and clamps and box are the same as the '90. 18, 20, and 21 are all 90450-56001-00. Whereas 19, the inlet to the airbox, is 90450-58002-00, and that plastic opening, as depicted in the diagram, is slightly bigger than the carb/airfilter side. Both ends of the carb-box hose, and the frame/steel pipe end of the intake rubber hose, use 56001. Ok I don't think I have this. It looks like an O-Ring that goes all the way around, right? I may have it, might not. Didn't look really close when I went to go measure clamps and openings. Later: It's part 1VJ-14462-00-00, and it just a piece of rubber cord, like an O-Ring that isn't connected to itself. Instead of $15 with shipping, I can probably find that in the aftermarket. I do not know what you mean. Do you mean: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C69T95BQ Do you mean the part circled in red? What's the 75.00? $75? To hell if you think I'll spend stealership prices on a $20 part. That is the rubber bumper that fits around the YFM350 frame, where the box has the inset (where the airbox narrows in the front to accommodate the frame). It's to support the airbox and prevent it from rubbing. A zip-tie goes around the center of the the bumper/sleeve, to secure it to the frame tube. There's a lot of pairs for the Yamaha Banshee 350 YFZ350 1987-2006. I wonder if they would fit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166313759167 $99 for a pair.

Got it. Worked! Ha! You were right the first time, this ^ time! Funny rubber part came with the box and hoses, not sure where it goes. And, I guess the airfilter gets sandwiched in the box? Is that how it seals? Against the inside face of the box? There was also a single missing clamp, out of the 4, as stated correctly in the Seller's item. Where do I get more of these clamps? It was $110, but the Seller had a 100% rating, people well-pleased with the quality of the items and the packaging, and that's what I go for. It was well-worth it. I wanted to wait to order it, until it was clear the other parts seemed good - good compression, spark, turns over. Oil filter looked ok, seems like it was changed once in the vehicle's history. Oil looked good coming out, diff oil looked good too. Cylinder has carbon build-up. I can see that through the sparkplug hole. I have LucasOil gas additive... unless you have other ideas. The rear hatch storage held the original 10 amp glass fuse inline assembly! Had an old wasps nest in one end, but it's intact. I used a standard waterproof blade fuse holder instead; no one has glass fuses hanging around. And someone wants $44 for the original yamaha part on ebay! I'll either edit this to add the funny rubber part that came with the box, and something oddball about the front suspension - one strut is original, one has been replaced with an aftermarket that is adjustable. Need advice on getting a matching pair. Nothing too funky or performance, just reasonably good quality replacement parts.

All excuses exposing inadequacies, that I won't stoop to using, The rear differential plug uses a 6mm.

Ok. The filters came in. Look good, like copper screen (metal), similar to the original yamaha. I pulled out the original one and there was a little bit of metal in some of the folds. Keeping in mind it has a wet clutch, I'm not too worried for now. I put the new filter in after draining everything, and refilled with 2.5qts for now, of 10w40 ATV oil. NONE of these forums seem to have a straightforward 'This is how you change the fluids' guide. Really gets me, because I'm sure Yamaha used the same plug for the 19mm oil and ???? unknown driver size for the rear differential. I've figured out through trial and error what the original driver for the engine oil plug, but it's made out of such cheap potmetal that I needed to slot the outer flange and bang it out with a screwdriver and hammer. Searched the web, looked at various forums. NO part numbers, anywhere. Looked in the PDF's, the so-called 'service manuals', which just refer to it as the oil plug, but give zero details as to the size of the driver to use, details about the plug, or part numbers. That's the official yamaha manuals, too. What a joke: Insecure male-zoids, make needlessly obscure instructions, as a kind of job security to attempt to offset their insecurity. One forum pointed to this: https://goldplug.com/?s=90340-12007-00 https://goldplug.com/shop/ap02r/ With the MP-01T and AP-02R being the correct magnetic plugs for the front and rear, but not specifying which goes with which. It does not have a front diff, just RWD Only. But no actual yamaha part number can be found. I did check partzilla: the differentials, front or rear, are completely excluded from the parts listings. It's not even a category to click on.

The dash lights and relays work as they should. I am thankful that the PO didn't actually mess with the original wiring harness as suspected. The neutral relay, the START button, and the starter solenoid was bad. 2 new relays with the same SPST NO nature as the neutral and stop switch/engine cut relays came in, and I have swapped-in a replacement. I may have restated the above in an earlier post, but that is a re-cap. Everything including pressing START when the ATV is correctly in NEUTRAL works as it should. Only the relay is not hooked-up to the starter, and I won't do that until I've put new oil and filter in it. I am waiting for the KN142 cartridge-type oil filter to come in, ordered over a week ago with the other parts. Apparently it was not Bezos 'Prime', and I missed that. I could not find the equivalent in stock at Walmart, because I have the fluids and would have bought one of them, there-and-then. Maybe someone knows of a compatible filter, because they do have a dozen filter cartridges. It looks like the procedure is to remove the screw holding the cooling lines to the frame, the shift lever, then to remove the 3 socket-head cap bolts keeping the N12345 cover on, and the filter should slide out. The airbox and hoses are ordered. They are close in year make and model, and I will not be 100% sure that they will fit until they arrive.

For everyone following the thread. Process of elimination. The Start Stop and Neutral relay are SPST NO. So that leaves reverse.

Numbers don't match. Easier just to say what their roles are.

It's right dickered. Yeah like I've been saying it's MIKUNI so it's clearly OEM. Ordered a new one (aftermarket). Can't get that jet out. It will rotate but not come out. 100% it was originally cause by that corn gas garbage produced by the midwest/western corporate farms. That land needs to make food, instead of pandering to artificial subsidies and contributing to fuel contamination. It's destroying health (corn oil) and destroying our carbs.

So you think it's unscrewed all the way (that's how i found it) but just needs a yank?

That looks like the main jet, and it just rotates. Took the side off (the MIKUNI black plastic) rust. Took the bowl off. Carefully punched out the float needle valve pin. Removed. Tried unscrewing what looked like the main jet. No luck. Just turns. Never seen that before on a carb. Special 'Yamaha ATV' feature? Or time for a new carb?

There's no '14 and 17' on mine. Can you just tell me which relays you mean? Pulled the MIKUNI plastic cover off the carb, during removal to detach one of the two throttle cables, and it's gross in there. Will clean and get back to everyone.

Do you guys know if these types of batteries are all basically the same for the YFM350 models? https://www.amazon.com/CALTRIC-BATTERY-YAMAHA-YFM-350-1996-1999/dp/B01DGLS20Y Like would that work on this one? HxWxD. I assume they do, and amazon simply doesn't have a fitment guide because this model is so old. "THIS WILL NOT WORK ON YOUR 1990!"

This exactly matches what I am seeing. For the two on the left, they are SPST, or simple relays that are normally-open, and only close when power is applied to the coil. Those I removed and individually-tested. I haven't taken the REVERSE relay off to test it. I assume it's the same. Is that what you are referring to when you say normally-closed?

Dash lights are all tested and work. To test, remove the brown and other 3 wires, carefully, as they are 'glued' together from being connected for so many years. Every socket was pulled out and greased with silicone. Each barrel received a small amount of copper paste. All three dash lights work, NEUTRAL too. On the backside, above the brake light, take the first relay off the back. Tested, it works. From the wiring colors, it's the engine stop relay, referred to as the 'Starting circuit cut-off relay'. That was fine, but the contacts somewhat crusty, and the way it was bonded with the plastic indicated it had never been removed, was original. It got the same copper paste and silicone paste treatment. The next was the Neutral relay. That had the same never-been-changed-or-removed characteristics, but the metal contacts were crustier. I didn't bother with the reverse relay for now, since that light is working fine. These are all interchangeable, simple SPST relays. If you have the relay in your hand, and you are looking at the 4 contacts, the locking mechanism facing away from you, then the 2 right-hand contacts are the coil connections. The left-hand 2 are the switch contacts. If you apply 12v to the coil, you should audibly hear and feel the relay energize, click. The cut-off relay sounded good, and everytime I energized it, i got continuity across the left-hand terminals. The Neutral switch relay, didn't make a noise. I tapped it briskly, and then it did. The fix is to tear the top off, where that seam is, and spray some CRC cleaner. Then take a small pick and make sure the contacts are hitting each other. I added a tiny amount of copper paste, too. Once I could energize the relay coil and get a consistent continuity, it was reinstalled and the NEUTRAL light on the dash worked. Also, when in neutral, pressing the START button, correctly actuated the starter solenoid. It's ready for an oil/filter change and a test start.

While I'm coping with looking for any potentially blown fuses or additional relays (besides the main starter relay), by using the "1987-1997-yamaha-big-bear-350-service-manual", what's the best site you recommend to get the specific YFM350ER service manual for 89-90? It looks like it should cost around $10-15 for the electronic version. 1987-1997-yamaha-big-bear-350-service-manual.pdf

@Gwbarm The neutral switch is OK. Tested between the nipple and ground, and got a definitive continuity when in NEUTRAL vs in gear. Can confirm the lamp should be OK, get 6.8 ohms across it. Will test it a little further, using a battery to getting it to light up. The barrel connector that goes over the neutral switch male connector, was kind of corroded. It took a little bit to get a pair of alligator test jumpers to connect it properly to the meter to test continuity. Started to rain so I packed-up, I have to do this outdoors. Will go back at it and see if I can get confirmation of the lamp lighting up and the neutral circuit working. Have you ever heard of the neutral switch and lamp being OK but the light still not coming on? I'll have to look over the schematic.

@Gwbarm Before I spend any more money on this, I should be able to hook up a battery and get the starter relay to click. I bought a sort of standard lawnmower relay-solenoid from the local Husqvarna dealer (for the same price as the amazon yamaha copy $10 one), same terminals etc, although it has standard 1/4" spade terminals that I was able to wire the left-overs from the previous OEM solenoid harness to. And it has a nice mounting point hole/bracket, so all I have to do is remove the screw that holds the CDI on (this is mounted in front of the battery cage, just over where the original relay went), and mount it there. No fumbly straps or whatever yamaha engineers envisioned for this model. I wired in a good battery to the ground strap on the back, with the ground strap to the transmission/motor, and that red with white strip on the harness. Turning on the key switch, I got the OIL PRESSURE light for a few seconds, then it went off. I was able to use the side-bar HLR to change it into REVERSE, and the REVERSE light lit up in red on the dash, and switch it back out of reverse and the light went off. So both of those lights are working and the ATV is getting power. Could not get the NEUTRAL light to come on or the relay to click, and my guess is that circuit is hooked to a start inhibitor, so unless the harness and sensors think the unit is in neutral, the start button won't do anything - will not fire the relay. A new sensor is something like this?: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQE3DYF I'm going to look through the service manual I have that is close, and see if I can find a part number and also the partzilla catalog. My guess is the neutral switch went bad at some point, which further would make the PO decide to completely bypass the switch, the relay, and the inhibitor - essentially the entire wiring harness. I'm kind of glad he did, instead of butchering the original harness. I have the SUPERTECH 4-STROKE ATV/UTV oil (3 qts) and 1 qt of the SUPERTECH full synthetic 75-90w, and will do an oil change before actually turning it over. Besides that I have to inspect the carb. It's just loose like someone tried to do a cleaning and never fully remounted it.

can anyone chime in if the 225 uses the same diameter hoses?