Ejwill

We can’t ride on any public roads on atv’s; golf carts and side by sides are ok in some situations. Atvs will get you a ticket. Wish we could ride on dirt roads, we can only ride on logging roads and field roads, private property types. I’ve been looking at some trails I might try, just not any near by, that I’ve found. Some day when I hit the lottery I’m going to come to New Zealand. Watched a show they were hunting red stag and wild feral hogs, looks like a fantastic place. Crushed rock I think would be same as what we call gravel roads. Spray tar /tac on the road and add rocks/gravel. Went to surges one year and on a paved road another guy flagged us down right around the curve it changed to loose gravel. It would have eaten us up if he hadn’t warned us. Got a problem got everything back together except for the plastic. Was going to ride around the house a couple of times. Cranked it up, runs great, lot better than before. Put it in reverse and nothing. Just sat there. Went back to neutral and to first it felt like it had a little pull to it, just a little. Gave it some gas just sat there. I wasn’t getting any error codes at the time. Thought I would try the manual gear shifter, shifted to first nothing. It will show that it is shifting to all the gears with the shift button but it will not move in any. After trying with the man

Crushed rock I think would be same as what we call gravel roads. Spray tar /tac on the road and add rocks/gravel. Went to sturgis one year and on a paved road another guy flagged us down right around the curve it changed to loose gravel. It would have eaten us up if he hadn’t warned us. Got a problem got everything back together except for the plastic. Was going to ride around the house a couple of times. Cranked it up, runs great, lot better than before. Put it in reverse and nothing. Just sat there. Went back to neutral and to first it felt like it had a little pull to it, just a little. Gave it some gas just sat there. I wasn’t getting any error codes at the time. Thought I would try the manual gear shifter, shifted to first nothing. It will show that it is shifting to all the gears with the shift button and the manual shifter but it will not move in any. After trying with the manual shifter I got the indicator back to neutral and the N started blinking 8 times. I believe that’s angle sensor or it’s wiring. It’s a new angle sensor, so I don’t know. At one time the 4 wheel drive indicator was blinking five times but it quit. I don’t know now. May have to start over, it’s just about to kill me. Any ideas, thought maybe change clutch, the adjustment screw is hard to turn again. Everything stayed in place when I put the cover back on. The adjustment may be way off it’s hard to turn so I don’t know if it’s right or not. Thanks. Well I went back and turned the clutch adjustment a lot further counterclockwise and it started moving now. I guess when I put the adjustment bolt in the plate I must have screwed it in too far,. Runs good now, just tore up the yard a little bit. Now I’ve got to figure out how to put the plastic and front end back on. Started to leave it all off, looks like a rat bike now. Thanks for the help, I’m sure I’ll be back with something else. These electric shifts looks like they have a lot of problems. I may get one of the bypass harness to go on it. I think that’s angle sensor will illuminate some of the problems or create more. I’ll be back to the forum just to look around and see what everyone is doing. Thanks again. Jeff

Well, got the cover back on, used loctite 518 and a gasket. Got to finish putting the shift motor back on and finish putting the carburetor back on. All I lack on the carb is putting the tubes to the air filter back on got one to go on that. I didn’t go into the wet clutch because someone said that if it was bad it would be making a lot of noise, it wasn’t when I was riding it last time. Hope it is alright, if not I’ll just have a go at it again. Got my fingers and my five toes crossed, only have five toes, lost my left leg due to a motorcycle accident. A guy turned in front of me and my nephew at a traffic light, my nephew had gotten back from Iraq, two tours not a scratch and almost gets killed in Georgia. That’s why I wanted that wall built. I went up over the car and landed on my left side crushing my left leg from my hip to my ankle and the radius and ulnar in my left arm. But I try to stay busy, don’t know if I’ll ever get the front end and all the plastic back on this thing. I figure It’ll all come together some day thanks for all the help everyone couldn’t do this without y’all. Of course it’s not up and going yet don’t want to count my chickens before they hatch. Thanks again. Will post what happens when I get it to the point it should go.

This loctite 518 gasket maker says you have to spray one side of the flange with loctite primer (part number 494147). Let sit 1-2 mins. then apply a continuous bead of the 518 on the unprimed surface. Assemble mating surfaces. Questions: Do you really need the primer spray? And question number two: In reference to assemble mating surfaces. How do you know if the surfaces are mating:) Didn’t want to assemble too soon or too late. When I bought the 518 there was no mention of spray primer. Now I guess I’ve got to order that. Or at least try to find it. Whether you are using it to make a gasket or dress a gasket you have to have the spray.

Ok, add that to the list. Do I need to pull the clutch or just remove the plates on the front of the clutch? Have to remember I don’t have a clue as to what I’m doing. Didn’t know if it would be easier to remove the clutch so I can get to everything easier. And mainly put everything back or if I can see enough by just removing the clips and the front plates. Thanks again.

I’ve been cleaning parts and the flanges. While I was working on the front casing gasket area I looked at the centrifugal clutch the outer ring and the two plates on the front of the clutch are blue, like they have gotten real hot. I wanted to mention it while I was this far. Didn’t know if there’s anything wrong or not. Didn’t exactly look good to me or maybe it’s normal. I know it’s got to get pretty hot.

I went to the site and was checking out and they said only shipping method for this order was to pick it up at one of the two stores in New Zealand, so the price of the loctite was $47 + some change and air fare round trip to New Zealand is somewhere around $2700 to $3000 so the would be around $3048, I think I’ll try to find some here in Georgia. Would love to come see New Zealand though, just can’t right now.

Sounds great I’ll have to check it out, cause not one store around here sells it. Thanks for the info.

So it’s loctite sealer, I’ve only heard of the bolt loctite,I’ll try and find it. Thanks to both of you.

Thanks GW. Mech loctite?

Thanks Mech, got some ready, just waiting on parts. What’s the best way to get the old gasket off the housing joint?

I got the housing off, I worked it from the wet clutch side and was able to free it up enough to get it off. Everything seemed to look good except the adjusting bolt I’ve ordered it and some other things, so guess I’ll be on hold for now except for cleaning the other parts up. We had snow and ice here over night. People from up north would probably laugh at how this has shut us down. Schools are closed stores closed they said they didn’t want people driving if they didn’t just have to. So I’ll try to get to the parts store tomorrow and get some cleaning solvent. There was a lot of thick oil in the housing and something that was sticky on the inside of it looked like grease. I’ll try to clean it good and clean all the oil ports out. Maybe the parts will be in by then. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks Mech. All my manual said was to remove the bolts and place in a piece of cardboard to keep up with where they go. They all appear the same except for the two long ones on each side of the oil filter. Other than that it was like remove the bolts and slide it off. It did say remove the fan I just removed the lower bolts on the fan and was able to push it back far enough to work. Removing the front drive is a bit harder looks to me. It said remove the clamps from the boots and discard them, can’t reuse them. Hope I can put them back together after I remove the shaft, it looks like the only way to get the clearance to remove the housing.

Well, I got all the bolts out of the housing and separated about 3 inches. I can move it slightly by hand. But it won’t come off. It looks like it is hitting the front drive shaft. Can’t get it to go any further. The manual doesn’t mention anything about that. Should I have to move the front drive shaft to get it off? The manual also doesn’t mention taking the shift motor off, I had to to get the last bolt the ratchet or electric ratchet would fit on it enough to keep from rounding the bolt head off. I’m in a wheelchair so I can’t get in a lot of ways to reach things, I finally got in the floor and slid under it. With my weight that’s hard in its self. A tight squeeze. If I need to remove the front drive please let me know. Thanks for all the help, I really need it.

Yes oem I’ve got it installed now seems to work. I thought the metal 90 had to go in the rubber one but I left it out and got it to work. Hope that was right. Working on removing the clutch housing cover to replace the clutch adjusting bolt. It had the wrong nut on it and threads were stripped. When I finally got it off the adjustment bolt was really hard to turn, I had to use channel locks on the screw driver to get it to turn either way. Got it to turn and now it turns too freely and it gone just about into the housing. Starting to remove the housing cover knowing I have to replace the bolt and possibly the lifting plate, hope everything else looks ok. Was hoping not to have problems with this one but was wrong. My wife found it and wanted to get it so I hate to keep sinking money in it, but it’s the thought that counts. I’ll keep going till it’s fixed or the money runs out. Thanks for the help, I sure need it. One other thing I’m trying to find parts and having a hard time on several sites I can’t find my atv. It’ll have a2007 trx500fm but no trx500fe are they compatible as far as parts? If not don’t know what to do. Found one site that had 2007 trx500fe but everything I look up it says will not fit your ride. A few sites have trx500feA or A2 don’t know if they are the same thing or not?

I checked the cable to the original and they were identical. I finally got the cable and choke installed, hope it is close enough to right to work . It cranked and the choke worked idled up when I pulled the choke knob idled down when pushed in. Got to get started on the clutch housing to replace the clutch adjusting bolt. Seems like one step forward and two steps back. Thanks for the replies.

If it didn’t have the metal inner elbow I could push it far enough on to access the inner cable. Hey I tried it without the metal one and the rubber one twisted up while I tried to tighten the nut. I don’t know I’ll check it against the original cable. Thanks again.

Ok thanks, I may give that a try. This new choke cable is giving me a hard time. With the elbow and nut on it there’s not enough inner cable to connect the plunger to.

My choke cable came in so decided to go ahead and put it on. Got a new plunger and spring. I don’t have enough cable coming out of the elbow and nut to put the new plunger on. Choke knob is pushed in all the way. When I put the elbow and nut on the cable the cable is recessed up into the nut too far to put the spring and plunger on. It’s oem cable.

Thanks Mech I’m going to start on it in a few minutes. Thought it was going to be a simple process. But that’s the way it goes with me. Thanks again.

Well while I was waiting for new parts for the choke, I decided to adjust the clutch. When I removed the lock nut, I found the guy I bought it from or someone else had stripped the threads on the adjustment rod. I couldn’t get the adjustment rod to turn without putting a pair of channel locks on the screw driver, this was telling me something was wrong. So now the rod pushes in and out and spins freely too freely. So guess I’ll have to take the clutch housing off to see what’s going on and replace the adjustment rod, it’s threads are beyond repair, and there is something going on with the adjustment rod. If there’s another way please let me know. The further I go the worse it gets. Thanks for any help.

Mech, I took the float off the new carb and took the jet out cleaned it and blew air through the valve opening. Put it back together and tried it again like you said this time it worked. Must have been something in there like you said. So I’m going to reinstall it tomorrow sometime and will post how it did. Hopefully that got it. Thanks again for all your help back on the 350 and now. You’ve been a great help. Thanks until next time if this works. Will let you know. Jeff

I did like you said blowing in the intake it leaks by. I may just clean the old one and put it back on. Unless you know of something else I can do. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Mech I actually went ahead and removed it before I saw your reply. The float valve seemed to be moving freely. I wasn’t sure if I needed to do anything to it now that it off. Everything was already off so I just pulled the carb and took the float bowl off move the float and turned it so the float move the valve itself. It appeared to move freely. I guess I can just install it again and try what you said. I wish I had seen your post sooner. But it wasn’t that hard to remove at this point.

I put a new carb on my trx500fe which I have done before on other models, but this foreman was a real pain, takes forever to get to the carb. Anyway I got the new one installed . I also changed the choke cable while I had it this far. When I turned the gas back gas started running into the air filter box. I did have trouble with the choke cable, it didn’t seem long enough to run where the old one did and the elbow that came with the new carb had more of a 90 on the angle. It didn’t feel like it was binding but I don’t know if the valve was seated on the valve seat. The choke pushed in smooth but who knows what happened in side the valve body. I don’t know if this could be the problem or not I hadn’t run the it just turned the gas back on. Appreciate any help, hint, hint Mech and GW or anybody else. Deer season is over in a little over a week. My power chair won’t make it down those muddy roads. Thanks again.