p5200

It's probably something minor and a quick fix.

Looks like good spark to me!

I'll probably try one then, it doesn't look like much trouble to remove it.

I haven't rebuilt a starter before but, I'll probably rebuild mine if it goes south. I used to recondition Kirby, Rainbow, and Electrolux vacuum cleaners quite a while back. I found a rear mastercylinder for my atv but, surely it can't be any good for $13.00 LOL!

When he mentioned it, I thought it looked like it should be closer to the Stator coil. I'll be surprised if it doesn't start now.

Looking Good! 👍

If, you take plenty of photos when you take something apart, it's a lot easier to put it back together correctly at least is is for me good luck. 👍

I always try to take photos each step of the way especially, on electronic components with all their connections.

Looks like you might just have it up and running soon. 👍

Not sure if this is any help or not.

Hi, is that the pulsing coil?

I think I would try bridging the batt and starter terminals and see if it cranks. I bought a cheap solenoid for my atv which lasted less than a week. It clicked but, used aligator clips with voltmeter across batt/starter terminals. when I hit the start button sure enough, it read full battery voltage indicating open circuit between batt/starter terminals. So, I put the old solenoid back on and it started right up. I'll try to buy as much OEM parts as I can afford, after that. 🙂

Hi, not trying to be hateful but, I think if you would start your own thread you might get some responses. 🙂

Yeah, that Big Bear sounds like the cdi is pretty tricky compared to the Hondas. I've been looking online for any pin out specs and any static tests that might be made on the cdi but, haven't ran across anything yet. Hopefully, you'll be able to get that going and maybe, not have to spend $400.00 for a cdi.

I've got a feeling, it probably is a bad master cylinder but I'll try bleeding to make sure. Glad I found my shorted wires that were melted together inside the split wire loom. My headlight would blow a fuse when switch was flipped. Also, my battery was discharging instead of charging when running.

This is what mine shows

My wife has a lot of oxygen hose I might check that first.

you tube I watched said use an 8mm wrench if that helps any. Didn't say what size hose though.

Any idea, what size hose I would need to slip over bleeding nipple to bleed my brakes?

This is the trx300ex and it does, have disc brakes on rear also. I was kind of surprised myself when I found out it had disc on front and back for it's price range. I'm going to wait for a warmer day and try, bleeding the brakes. I guess it would be easier to get someone else to help. Thanks guys! 👍

I seem to have no resistance at all on the rear brake pedal and no rear brakes. They were pretty good before I removed the right side crank cover. In order to get to the lower bolts of the cover, I took a piece of baling wire and wired the pedal in the down position. I assume, that caused at least, part of the brake problem. I can't see where fluid came out but, I did have to add more fluid. Added the fluid but still no resistance to pedal. Should I try to bleed the rear brakes? Thanks

Don't know about Yahama but, the Hondas usually have a diode/diodes that short or a scr from what I've found online. Came in handy testing my cdi. Good luck

Looks like a lot of work for sure! If you've got a hot air pencil and some of the small paste it sure helps a lot. I used to do some, smd devices with a fine point soldering station but, that was years ago. LOL!

Don't know if this video might be any help but, I ran across it and figured I'd post it just in case.

Are these the 2x4 or 4x4 models? Ok, I'll look around.