alexwv1863

I can't remember if I check the output shaft or not. I've had the rest end off twice. I'm pretty sure I checked it the first time. The only other things I know to do is take the cover off the transmission gears on the side of the engine. It's probably called something else. It also won't go into gear using the gear shift selector. With this bike, I wouldn't think it would have to be running before you could shift into high or low.

Yes, we pushed the bike into the workshop. I don't know if I twisted on the drive shaft after the rear end was off, or what. I've been working on the bike off and on for a few weeks now, so I can't remember exactly if I did something and just don't remember. I do know that the diff I put on turns when not attached to the drive shaft. I've taken it off twice now because the first time I tried putting it on, there's a spring that goes from the pinion gear to the inside of the drive shaft, well I smashed that sucker all up. I took the rear end back off and put another spring in there. I first thought maybe that was the problem and with the first one smashed, it bound it up or didn't provide the right spring to allow with shifting gears. It might sound silly, but I was just trying to troubleshoot.

I believe the Kawasaki is either an '03 or '04. Green automatic with shifter on the right side. Rear differential was bad, so I replaced it with another. The 4 wheeler rolled in neutral when I parked it in the shop to work on. Took old diff off and replaced it with another one. The diff I put on, turned before I put it on the bike. Once I put it on the bike, the rear end wouldn't move at all. It's like it's stuck in gear. Bike is still in neutral. I've tried rocking the bike while trying to put it in high, won't budge. Can anyone tell me of something to check or try? I haven't opened up the transmission case yet to see what's going on. What should I be looking for?

This may be silly but have you checked all fuses, and battery? Just a thought. I'm having a similar issue with an Arctic Cat. When you find the issue, please let us know what it was. It may help somebody else out.

I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500. Basic, not an Alterra. I have the manual that has the 500/550/700 already. Just thought there was one manual only for a 500 that I hadn't found yet.

I'm looking for a repair manual that's specifically for a 2016 Arctic Cat 500. I have looked in the downloads section and there's one but it's for 500,700 & 1000 models. When looking through it, things I'm trying to find to fix on my 500 is not specific for just that model, and it's geared more towards the 700 model. So, needless to say, it really isn't helping me. I really hope someone out there has one. Thanks.

That's what got me. I think it was like that last Fall but I was busy doing other things and forgot about it. There's quite a bit of oil down on my skid plate and the oil is a little low. I haven't really ran it much this Winter. I'll clean it good and see what happens. It just concerns me because it's my #1 go-to and the newest one I own. Thanks for your input.

I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500 and recently noticed some oil leaking on the engine block to the right of the oil filter. It's near two metal lines going in and out of the engine block. I think one of the lines is called an engine oil line. I have a photo I'm going to try and attach. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start tearing into the engine if I don't have to. I think maybe a gasket or something blew around one of these lines. The ATV runs fine otherwise. Doesn't overheat or anything.

Hey everyone, first I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas to all who celebrate. Now onto my new problem. My apologies now for a long post. I just want to go thru everything I've done to help figure out what the issue is. Here goes: I have an 04 Yamaha Kodiak 450. Last week I went to take it for a ride and it wouldn't start. The display would light up and the speedometer numbers would go around in a circle like it was loading (to give an idea of what it looks like). When I would try to start it, it wouldn't do anything and the display would go blank. I tried crossing over the solenoid and it still wouldn't do anything, nothing at all. Today I was writing in it and hooked up a charger/jump box to see if that battery was dead. The charger read that it was completely charged. I tried cranking it and after a few tries and reconnecting the charger, I got the 4 wheeler to start. I unhooked the charger and a minute later the 4 wheeler just shut off like I turned the switch off. I, again, hooked up the charger, waited a couple minutes and the ATV started again. This time I left the charger hooked up several minutes while the ATV was running. When I unhooked the charger this time, it stayed running and I was actually able to ride it around the yard for several minutes without any issues. I parked it, shut it off with the kill switch like I always do, turned the key off. I thought I would see if it would start on it's own. I turned the switch on, kill switch off, and nothing. The display wouldn't light up nor turn over. When I would turn the kill switch on, the display would then light up, but once I turned the switch off, the display would go blank. I took off the start button ignition assembly off the handlebar and all of the connections looked new, so it should be making a great connection to the handlebar. I originally had a new solenoid on, but I put the original back on, cleaned all of the terminals, tried crossing it over with nothing happening still. I put on a new starter a couple of weeks ago and there hadn't been any issues until a couple weeks ago when I tried taking it for a ride like originally stating. Could the kill switch have gone bad and is causing this issue? Could it be some chance be the starter since it's not an OEM? Could it be the rectifier going bad? Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated. I would love to get it fixed soon. I have some other maintenance I want to do on it and have it road ready in case I need it if weather were to get bad. Thanks in advance. I do appreciate all of y'all's help and advice.

It sounds worse when I give it throttle but it just started when I put the new starter on. It's weird and it's bugging me. It really didn't sound as loud today but it did seem to get a little worse the longer I ran it. I'm debating on whether it not to take it off and take it apart, or just send it back. I don't know what to do. I'll have to send it back tomorrow if I do. What would y'all do?

It doesn't sound as loud today as it was the other day. I haven't ran it any for the past few days. I've tried to upload a video I just took but it's not letting me.

It ran fine before the old starter went out. I ran it maybe 2 or 3 days before on a ride and didn't have issues. I went to crank it up after that too move it to do a little work on it and it would crank. I put this new starter in and it cranked over great, idles great and even runs great except for the whining noise it now does. The bike hasn't been left sitting for more than 2 weeks at a time since I got it running this past Spring. I have ran it numerous times between them and now without an issue until the starter.

I recently had to replace the starter on my Kodiak. It cranks super easy now but it's make this high pitched squealing sound. It sounds like bearings that's not greased or something. I didn't take the starter apart to look it over before installing it. So it could need greased. Should I take it back off and do that, or could it be something else I should look at? It didn't make this noise with the old starter.

I just wanted to post saying I finally figured out what was wrong. After putting on the second new carb, it still wasn't taking throttle. So, trying to problem solve, I placed my hand on the air intake boot that's right in front of the seat between the seat and gas tank. I cupped my hand over it and it took throttle.. Took it for a test drive and realized that it needed the plastic tank cover on because it was sucking too much air into that boot and causing it to stall out. So if anybody comes across this thread that's having a similar issue, try putting the gas tank cover on and see if it connects the issue like it did mine. Thank you to those who commented trying to help me figure it out.

I'll try that with the other carb. I don't think it's a mikuni tho. So, he got the new carb, put it on yesterday and still having the same issue. It sounds like it's not getting enough gas or too much. Also, when I went thru the carb before installing it, the needle valve doesn't move up and down in the needle seat like it does on other carbs. All the float does is push in on the button on top of the valve. Is this a normal thing or not? I don't know what I'm missing.

Not that this really matters, but it's an 01 not 03 Yamaha. Just wanted to make that known in case someone needing help comes across this thread later on. I have tried everything that I know of to get the carb to run correctly. I've used the brush cleaners, carb cleaner, checked visually after cleaning, blew thru jets, adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw both ways. I couldn't get the screen tube out that's under the float needle. In the process of trying to get it out, I created grooves inside where the belt valve slides and now the carb leaks a little because the float is sticking. I tried everything to get that little sucker out and it wouldn't budge even a little. I have given up and ordered a new carb. Even though it's a Chinese carb, I hope it'll be alright in the end. It should be here any day now. I'll let y'all know what happens when I get the new one installed. Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions. It's greatly appreciated.

Thank y'all. I've cleaned the carb twice. I guess a third wouldn't hurt. I thought it was a carb issue too and maybe we put something back in the wrong place. It's my dad's 4 wheeler and he got it off some boy, so there's some tubes hanging down that I don't know where they're supposed to go. It also has a regular petcock on it and not the factory one that has an extension for the knob to stick out under the gas tank. If that was changed before he got it, come to think of it, I believe the carb is a generic one. I don't remember Seeing Mikuni on it anywhere. If y'all think of something else I could check, please let me know. this is driving me crazy because I know it's something simple I'm overlooking.

Hey everyone, I have an issue with my dad's 03 Yamaha Kodiak 400. It had been running great but he left it sitting for a short amount of time. When he started it, it ran fine for a little bit but all of a sudden it quit taking gas. I thought it may have been the carb because it him not running it. The carb ended up being pretty clean. He put it back on and after taking it off and cleaning again, I'm beginning to wonder what it could be. It'll start and idle just fine, but when you go to give it throttle, it'll die out. It sounds like it's not getting air right but idk where to look or what else it could be. I'm stumped and need to figure this out before I go crazy. Anyone have any ideas???

I have an 04 Yamaha Kodiak 450 that I recently got running. When I got it, I noticed it was missing the right headlight wiring connector that the lightbulb goes into and plugs into the wiring harness. I bought a replacement, a Chinese generic part. When I first connected it, it worked fine so I didn't think much about it. A few days later, I went to move my bike after it got dark, I turned the lights on and that side didn't have low beam but had high beam. I thought maybe the light blew or something. The next day I go look at it, still no low beam. While I had the lights on, I started noticing smoke. I no l immediately shut everything off and ripped the wiring off the bike. The wires were completely fried! Thankfully this happened when I wasn't riding, and had the rack and front cover off so I noticed it immediately. I wanted to give you the backstory on what all happened. To give warning to others who have purchased these cheap harnesses and to ask this: After all that happened and I was thinking on it, it made me wonder if this happened to the previous owner and that was why there wasn't one on the bike when I got it. What should I look for that could possibly be overloading that part or what? Anyone have any ideas?

Yes, I now have reverse and it switches to reverse easily without problems every time. I've tried multiple times since yesterday, including switching to reverse on a hill and back out of reverse.

I really don't know if starting it in park had anything to do with it. I just know that was the only thing I had done differently and it worked. While working on the side replacing the fixed and sliding sheaves, drive belt, etc, the drive shaft moved. I'm thinking it may have got the gears out of alignment somehow or something. I'm now anywhere near a mechanic, so I can't say what caused what. It was weird that the reverse started working after that. Who knows really. I'm just glad it's working now.

Yesterday, I had to fix a hose and actually put the in their direct position. After I did that, I started the 4 wheeler and it started sucking air. I noticed the carb wasn't in the intake manifold boot all the way. So, I put the 4 wheeler in park. I'm saying all of this bc it's the only explanation I have for what I'm about to tell you. Got the carb on all the way. Started the 4 wheeler back up and go for a test drive. I decided to try the reverse just to see if it would work. Wouldn't you know it, it went into reverse seamlessly! The only thing I did different was actually putting it into park before starting, and not neutral. I'm really glad it's not working. Maybe someone else will have similar issues and this may help. Not sure. Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll run into some issue in the future, or with a different 4 wheeler. I'm going to start back working on the Arctic Cat I worked on two years ago. I have a hunch I may know what is the issue with it. I hope I'm right.

Ok, I'm back for more issues/questions to run by y'all. First, I got the carb issue fixed. One of the cables was unscrewed and I couldn't see it until I completely removed the tank. Now that they issue is fixed, I finally got to take it for a first test drive yesterday. Now, I have an issue with the reverse. If I get it in reverse, all it does is make a bad grinding noise like the gears are just chewing away and not engaging at all. It sounds like it's coming from the left hand side that the start ignition button is on. I haven't tore into that yet bc I'm wanting to get more opinions as to what it could be before I go tearing into something. I can take a video tomorrow if it would help.

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