alexwv1863

I can't remember if I check the output shaft or not. I've had the rest end off twice. I'm pretty sure I checked it the first time. The only other things I know to do is take the cover off the transmission gears on the side of the engine. It's probably called something else. It also won't go into gear using the gear shift selector. With this bike, I wouldn't think it would have to be running before you could shift into high or low.

Yes, we pushed the bike into the workshop. I don't know if I twisted on the drive shaft after the rear end was off, or what. I've been working on the bike off and on for a few weeks now, so I can't remember exactly if I did something and just don't remember. I do know that the diff I put on turns when not attached to the drive shaft. I've taken it off twice now because the first time I tried putting it on, there's a spring that goes from the pinion gear to the inside of the drive shaft, well I smashed that sucker all up. I took the rear end back off and put another spring in there. I first thought maybe that was the problem and with the first one smashed, it bound it up or didn't provide the right spring to allow with shifting gears. It might sound silly, but I was just trying to troubleshoot.

I believe the Kawasaki is either an '03 or '04. Green automatic with shifter on the right side. Rear differential was bad, so I replaced it with another. The 4 wheeler rolled in neutral when I parked it in the shop to work on. Took old diff off and replaced it with another one. The diff I put on, turned before I put it on the bike. Once I put it on the bike, the rear end wouldn't move at all. It's like it's stuck in gear. Bike is still in neutral. I've tried rocking the bike while trying to put it in high, won't budge. Can anyone tell me of something to check or try? I haven't opened up the transmission case yet to see what's going on. What should I be looking for?

This may be silly but have you checked all fuses, and battery? Just a thought. I'm having a similar issue with an Arctic Cat. When you find the issue, please let us know what it was. It may help somebody else out.

I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500. Basic, not an Alterra. I have the manual that has the 500/550/700 already. Just thought there was one manual only for a 500 that I hadn't found yet.

I'm looking for a repair manual that's specifically for a 2016 Arctic Cat 500. I have looked in the downloads section and there's one but it's for 500,700 & 1000 models. When looking through it, things I'm trying to find to fix on my 500 is not specific for just that model, and it's geared more towards the 700 model. So, needless to say, it really isn't helping me. I really hope someone out there has one. Thanks.

That's what got me. I think it was like that last Fall but I was busy doing other things and forgot about it. There's quite a bit of oil down on my skid plate and the oil is a little low. I haven't really ran it much this Winter. I'll clean it good and see what happens. It just concerns me because it's my #1 go-to and the newest one I own. Thanks for your input.

I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500 and recently noticed some oil leaking on the engine block to the right of the oil filter. It's near two metal lines going in and out of the engine block. I think one of the lines is called an engine oil line. I have a photo I'm going to try and attach. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start tearing into the engine if I don't have to. I think maybe a gasket or something blew around one of these lines. The ATV runs fine otherwise. Doesn't overheat or anything.

Hey everyone, first I would like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas to all who celebrate. Now onto my new problem. My apologies now for a long post. I just want to go thru everything I've done to help figure out what the issue is. Here goes: I have an 04 Yamaha Kodiak 450. Last week I went to take it for a ride and it wouldn't start. The display would light up and the speedometer numbers would go around in a circle like it was loading (to give an idea of what it looks like). When I would try to start it, it wouldn't do anything and the display would go blank. I tried crossing over the solenoid and it still wouldn't do anything, nothing at all. Today I was writing in it and hooked up a charger/jump box to see if that battery was dead. The charger read that it was completely charged. I tried cranking it and after a few tries and reconnecting the charger, I got the 4 wheeler to start. I unhooked the charger and a minute later the 4 wheeler just shut off like I turned the switch off. I, again, hooked up the charger, waited a couple minutes and the ATV started again. This time I left the charger hooked up several minutes while the ATV was running. When I unhooked the charger this time, it stayed running and I was actually able to ride it around the yard for several minutes without any issues. I parked it, shut it off with the kill switch like I always do, turned the key off. I thought I would see if it would start on it's own. I turned the switch on, kill switch off, and nothing. The display wouldn't light up nor turn over. When I would turn the kill switch on, the display would then light up, but once I turned the switch off, the display would go blank. I took off the start button ignition assembly off the handlebar and all of the connections looked new, so it should be making a great connection to the handlebar. I originally had a new solenoid on, but I put the original back on, cleaned all of the terminals, tried crossing it over with nothing happening still. I put on a new starter a couple of weeks ago and there hadn't been any issues until a couple weeks ago when I tried taking it for a ride like originally stating. Could the kill switch have gone bad and is causing this issue? Could it be some chance be the starter since it's not an OEM? Could it be the rectifier going bad? Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated. I would love to get it fixed soon. I have some other maintenance I want to do on it and have it road ready in case I need it if weather were to get bad. Thanks in advance. I do appreciate all of y'all's help and advice.

It sounds worse when I give it throttle but it just started when I put the new starter on. It's weird and it's bugging me. It really didn't sound as loud today but it did seem to get a little worse the longer I ran it. I'm debating on whether it not to take it off and take it apart, or just send it back. I don't know what to do. I'll have to send it back tomorrow if I do. What would y'all do?

It doesn't sound as loud today as it was the other day. I haven't ran it any for the past few days. I've tried to upload a video I just took but it's not letting me.

It ran fine before the old starter went out. I ran it maybe 2 or 3 days before on a ride and didn't have issues. I went to crank it up after that too move it to do a little work on it and it would crank. I put this new starter in and it cranked over great, idles great and even runs great except for the whining noise it now does. The bike hasn't been left sitting for more than 2 weeks at a time since I got it running this past Spring. I have ran it numerous times between them and now without an issue until the starter.

I recently had to replace the starter on my Kodiak. It cranks super easy now but it's make this high pitched squealing sound. It sounds like bearings that's not greased or something. I didn't take the starter apart to look it over before installing it. So it could need greased. Should I take it back off and do that, or could it be something else I should look at? It didn't make this noise with the old starter.

I just wanted to post saying I finally figured out what was wrong. After putting on the second new carb, it still wasn't taking throttle. So, trying to problem solve, I placed my hand on the air intake boot that's right in front of the seat between the seat and gas tank. I cupped my hand over it and it took throttle.. Took it for a test drive and realized that it needed the plastic tank cover on because it was sucking too much air into that boot and causing it to stall out. So if anybody comes across this thread that's having a similar issue, try putting the gas tank cover on and see if it connects the issue like it did mine. Thank you to those who commented trying to help me figure it out.