Hagbard

Just checked, and the spigot size is a bit smaller. Found a great writeup here, apparently the DR200 uses the same carb and is as reviled there. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1373576-dr200-carb-conversion-info/ He says the 30mm slide carbs were too much for the stock bike, and ended up with a PWK 24 that worked really well, so I just need to find something in the 24-26mm range with the right size spigot I suppose. Just looked at my plug, and it's (DR8ES) colder than what's called for (DR7EA) and I'm thinking that might be an issue. Might even go down to a DR6EA for a hotter spark.

Going to need a puller to get the bearing out, (it has a grooved lip on it that sticks out, which is ultimately WHY the newer retainer plate will not fit over it) and I used a really big socket that was big enough to sit on the outer race to tap the new bearing into place. You may also want to get the proper front sprocket that goes with this setup, as I had to use a couple 14ga. bushings to shim mine. If you want to save a little $, find a bearing #206 or 6206 from any local auto parts store. same bearing at a significantly lower price than Suzuki. Same with oil seals and o-rings. In the parts diagram, they give you the dimensional sizes of these. Just google to cross reference common part numbers.

I have a VM26-606 sitting new in a box on my shelf, but I suppose a 30mm would be a better match. I guess got super lucky with the eBay mikuni I got for the LT185, it was literally good to go right out of the box. I think I had to move the air screw like 1/8 turn. I'll see if I can find a used dirt bike carb tho, because this diaphragm thing is for the birds.

Looking for a DRIVE SPROCKET RETAINER PLATE for a 1987 LT230E (P/N 24751-35B01)? Good luck. Believe me I searched high and low, including contacting two OEM suppliers in Japan. No dice. Ran into this problem myself. The part is no longer available, unless you get SUPER lucky on eBay. My solution was to use the identical part from the newer ones, but you have to switch out the bearing and spacer bushing as well. Basically I took the retainer plate (46) and spacer bushing( 55) from a 160 motor I have for parts, and bought a new 6206 bearing which is the right size to match part (40) https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-30x62x16.../dp/B07XJ7H2VJ There's also a difference in thickness between the sprockets, so I added a couple 14ga. bushings as spacers So, referencing this parts diagram, you need to get everything from the bearing (40) on out. So, parts 40 (BEARING 09262-30084), 46 (RETAINER 24751-35B10), 47 (OIL SEAL 09283-38017), 48 (O RING 09280-70009), 54 (O RING 09280-21008), 55 (SPACER 27531-35B10), and 59 (PLATE, FRONT CHAIN GUIDE 27641-35B00). https://www.babbittsonline.com/.../50d08495f.../transmission If you need me to walk you through any of it I'd be happy to help.

So, back to the King Quad - I really, really, REALLY don't like this carburetor (BST31-SS) and want to just swap it out for a Mikuni VM round slide or anything else without the vacuum diaphragm. Manual states stock jetting as 120 main, 37.5 pilot with the pilot screw 2 5/8 turns out. When set up that way it is ridiculously hard to start, won't idle down without dying, etc. I've experimented with swapping out jets but I think I'm really just shooting blind with this thing. The only adjustment screw (pilot fuel screw) on this thing is on the friggin BOTTOM of the carb where you can't physically access it to adjust without removing the carb from the intake boot and flipping it over. What a jackass arrangement. I did some searching for anyone who has successfully swapped out to a different carb on this machine and come up dry. Any ideas?

Most sand casting uses CO2 and a chemical called "Gasbond" that gets mixed in with the sand. I'm wondering if they add an odorant to it like they do with propane (stinky eggs smell) so they know if there's a leak creating potentially lethal concentrations in the room. Would make sense from a "keep OSHA happy" standpoint. There's a foundry near me (or there was thirty years ago) that made some parts for a downrigger for my dad. They were some parts for a little jig that would "twitch" the rod via input from a little paddle wheel with a cog. The parts in question were made of a rather brittle plastic, and he glued the shattered remnants back together and LaPann's cast them in sand and made him some replicas from aluminum. A few years ago I found out you can actually cast small bits yourself using a mixture of hi temp silicone RTV and cornstarch as a mold. I replicated one of the ancient Snap-On badges for my toolbox that way. Came out halfway decent.

This is a pretty cool video I happened across, I think it might be right up your alley.

The flex additive is what keeps the flaking and cracking from happening But this Farm paint is pretty elastic from what I can see so far. If it gouges or scratches, I can always touch it up or re-spray them considering how cheap the paint is. Comes in other colors too - there's a "Ford Blue" and "Massey Red" that bear a resemblance to the OEM fenders that were on this thing, but I really liked the look of the JD Yellow. The orange is a bit too brown to match the "Winning! Orange" or I would have made this beast match my LT185 from 10 years prior. I can't keep all the bore and stroke sizes straight, been looking at parts for 4 or 5 different motors and remembering which is which is a formidable task lol. As far as Wiseco, I love the look and feel of them, but yeah, they are heavy. I have a keychain from them that I assume is a miniature replica of one of their pistons, and it weighs a ton. Ex-FIL is a machinist who's into classic cars, guess I shouldn't have pissed off his little girl. Then again, he might still be willing to do a little chipping for me.

I found out that it's not worth the money to spend on clearing a single stage paint that I didn't buy from him ROFL He did confirm the thing about flex additives for me, something I would never have even seen painting bikes - it's only for flexible plastic bits, mainly bumpers, said it would be great to use on ATV plastics if I were using the complete primer/base/clear system. Flex should go in the primer and clear, he said it wasn't necessary for the color coat though. Is a 70mm like .5 over?

Nope, no "Make an Offer" option on the listing. They just sent me a discount offer since I "watched" it. I have a couple of quotes out on boat covers, maybe if one of them pulls the trigger, I'll splurge.

The 230 manual usually has routing diagrams for the hoses, cables, and wiring - I think there's a sticky link to it. On the topic of your crank>fire>die issue, check the Neutral safety switch. Look for a single blue wire running into the loom right near the carb. Usually has a bullet connector. pull that bullet apart and run a jumper wire with a bullet on one end and a ring terminal on the other to the frame to ground it and try starting the bike. It's a common issue from what I gather, look for the "Start in gear mod" for more detailed directions if you need them. It's worked for me on 2 separate quads now, worth a shot.

The service manual usually has routing diagrams for the hoses, cables, and wiring - I think there's a sticky link to it. On the topic of your crank>fire>die issue, check the Neutral safety switch. Look for a single blue wire running into the loom right near the carb. Usually has a bullet connector. pull that bullet apart and run a jumper wire with a bullet on one end and a ring terminal on the other to the frame to ground it and try starting the bike. It's a common issue from what I gather, look for the "Start in gear mod" for more detailed directions if you need them. It's worked for me on 2 separate quads now, worth a shot.

I could be wrong, but I believe based on what I learned from JustRandy, the 300 piston would not work in your motor, even if you could bore the jug out to accommodate it, because the 300 uses a 17mm wrist pin and everything else (except the '89-90 LT250s) uses 16mm.

You have no idea the restraint it is taking me to not buy this. My excuse is that it's still plus $22 shipping. This is called foreshadowing. I will live to regret this oversight, and have conveniently documented it here for posterity.

Heard. I figured it was too good to be true lol. I'll just keep saving my pennies while I look for a bargain bin special on the cam. If nothing comes up I'll just suck it up and buy the $140 one with my Christmas booty (If I have any left). About to go use the KQ to mend some split rail fences in exchange for a near mint '04ish CR80R. I figure it's a good trial run for the KQ, and I can buy a LOT of wheeler parts for what that dirt bike is worth.

I pulled the trigger on it last night/early morning. Figured I could turn around and sell the carb boot alone for half of what I just paid for the head. And I might be lucky and it already has the heavy springs. Turns out that even though the rocker cover was in one of the pics, it was a separate auction, so I ended up paying another $15 for it. I WAS ROBBED I TELL YA! So just for the sake of argument, would this head equipped with a 250S piston bolt up to a 230E block that's sitting in a 160 frame?? Asking for a friend who is tenting his fingers like an evil genius and muttering something about "power to weight ratio" and "lengthen the swingarm"

100% yes, I do boat upholstery for a living and I've rehabbed a few wheeler and motorcycle seats - if you leave the foam exposed to UV for much more than a week or two it will start to degrade and get progressively worse til you have deep valleys or pock holes. cover with tape until you can buy a yard worth of 4-way stretch vinyl. This site https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/36x54-marine-vinyl?variant=39463706361940 has really good pricing for vinyl and a sale on right now where you can get single yards of 4-way for $16, enough to do 2 seats probably. 4-way stretch makes it MUCH easier to cover those compound curves without having to sew in gussets, but it will also show imperfections in the foam beneath more readily. If a seat's foam is really bumpy, a layer of sew foam (scrim backed foam) or headliner material will help give it a smoother appearance. If there are deep valleys or chunks missing, you can either fill in with similar foam, by gluing it in with contact cement, or you can shave out surrounding foam and make a lower seat profile by using an electric turkey knife. You can pick up a decent air stapler from Harbor Freight for about $30, I use the 20 gauge one with 3/8" staples for most seats, 1/2" if its a super thick spot. Hope it helps and happy to answer any questions.

Just found this one. I think I'm going to grab it. for $40 I can't beat it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224522065109?hash=item34468ed4d5:g:kMEAAOSwNq9g4q0x

Sh** you're right about the matched set thing. Judging from the blue RTV I see peeking out around the valve cover, I suspect someone else may already have sailed that particular ship past the point of no return. I don't see any evidence of leaking around THAT half-assed gasket job, but it flows out of the inspection caps, and they're already pre-rounded with what appears to have been Vise-Grips or Channel Locks... perhaps they started out with a handy old Crescent wrench. Song remains the same. I have some new caps on the way (originally from a 77 SP370, speaking of undocumented interchange) which I figure I can at least tighten enough for the o-ring to seal. As far as a head and valve cover, I found this candidate for rebuild, think it's suitable? https://www.ebay.com/itm/234056625049?hash=item367edcab99:g:GI4AAOSwhw9gzNXv (Sorry to pester you if you have better things to do feel free to tell me so )

I have most of a 160 motor to do with as I please. no rocker cover, but I have a head with a broken exhaust valve in it, and everything below that. Suzuki is terrible with cross referencing, and stamping the same part with different numbers just to make life fun, but I suspect there's more interchangeability than parts numbers and diagrams let on... Wondering if that scrap 160 head would be useable? Ozark cam looks like it has a "D" on it.

12711-25C00 is the LT250S part # 12711-25A00 is the Ozark 250 # Hard to tell with the angle of the pic. And I'll be damned, the Ozark ALSO uses those same springs I ordered earlier.

Maybe I'll call the guys at DynoCams and beg them to show charity to a poor impoverished powersports enthusiast. Kind of leaning toward finding a spare head and having it machined, then install new valves, collets, and seals along with those ovate springs, and a hotter cam wherever I may find one. Seems like a good winter project on the basement workbench to me. Lots of swearing muffled by the rafters. Pay no attention to the sweet smelling smoke, that's just um... I'M SOLDERING DON'T COME DOWN HERE.

I just cross referenced the 230S cam, and it's the same cam that's in the 87-95 LT-4WD, So that accounts for the similarity, Definitely more of a sidegrade if not a 1:1 ASSEMBLIES WHERE 12711-22A00 IS USED 1985 LT230S - Cam Shaft - Valve 1986 LT230S - Cam Shaft - Valve 1987 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1987 LT230S - Cam Shaft - Valve 1988 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1988 LT230S - Cam Shaft - Valve 1989 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1990 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1991 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1992 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1993 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1994 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve 1995 LT-4WD - Cam Shaft - Valve So just for grins, what are the chances there's a different (read: more BRAAAPP) bucket and jug I can bolt on to the 300 bottom end? 450?

Yeah, I meant the Cat rear suspension. Anything decent or better about the 230S cam? They seem to be readily available.

I'm the type that can't just own something without modding it to make it better, more useful, ergonomic, or more powerful. I've done tons of searching on old forums, videos, etc. and come up with "basically you can do the start in gear mod and the diff lock mod and that's about it" everywhere I look. Only other thing I saw was grafting a Polaris 300 rear end onto a KQ. Seems cool, but like a whole lot of work to what end?