pastorjeep

I got the engine broke free and I am going to fill the crankcase to the top with gasoline and let it sit for a day and then drain it before putting oil in. I am struggling with a flare up of diverticulitis right now and can only work for short spurts. Hopefully Monday I will get the swingarm installed and get the wiring straightened out and try to get spark and maybe a first start. 🙏

Ok guys, I am a glutton for punishment! I picked up this 01 2wd Rancher because the plastics looked good on the marketplace. It has been sitting in the guys back yard for 10 years. The original engine blew and they swapped in an electric shift 4x4 engine. 😒The engine is locked up and was full of water. The wiring is hacked where they tried to get it to run and the rear end needs new swingarm bearings where they left it laying on the ground in the woods for 10 years. Has anyone here ever did the engine swap? First thing is to straighten out the wiring and get the engine free to see if I can get it to crank over. I have swingarm bearings ordered and a new ignition switch. So hopefully I can at least roll it around soon. 🤣

In the video I am reaching down and shifting by hand. The speedo goes up to 4-8mph while revving. I ordered the bypass in this video.

Thanks for the encouragement. I decided to just buy the ECM bypass shift kit. For only $20 it was worth trying. It will retain the push button shifting and the only down side seems to be harsh shifting if you don't come completely off the throttle. Plastics have been cleaned, racks sanded and painted, all the lights working, and a new seat cover. It was missing the fuel tank and used ones are $200, which is what I paid for the quad. So I just installed a little one I had from a 110cc chinese machine. I will probably end up selling this as a running parts machine or someone could pop for some new front palstics and a fuel tank and have a decent Rancher. Question: Why would the speedometer show MPH going up while revving in neutral? I thought the speedo was tied to the speed sensor on the output shaft?

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It seems that the ECU may be bad. When i turn the key to the on position the gear indicator blinks five times. It I do the test procedure (hold buttons, turn key on, release buttons, press and hold buttons for 3 seconds) I get 1 blink, five blinks, and five blinks which I am interpreting to be code 11. That is the test procedure, but when I simply turn the key on normally it blinks five times continually.

The starter solenoid came in today but I was busy at the office all day and then had to go tonight 3 hour drive to pick up a 2001 TRX350TM to rehab, that will be another thread. I was able to use paint striper on the plastic and get it pretty clean. Tomorrow I have a busy morning (podcast filming on Tue/Thur) but should be home by noon or 1 and will hopefully take it for a test ride. I did ohm test the shift motor tonight and got 13 ohms. I need to see what the acceptable range is. I don't here anything at the motor so I will test voltage while hitting the shift button as well. Thanks for the encouraging words! VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

How do I get it to stop showing the previous post when replying? VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

Hope to take it for a ride tomorrow. Looks like I probably need a shift motor. VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

How do I clear the codes? VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

It looks like I probably need a shift motor? I will check the wiring to the motor tomorrow. VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

Just a little update for everyone. I traced all the wires repairing any cut wires along the way. The two main power wires from fuse box and the fan wires were cut. The carb heater wires are cut but the harness plug is there. I don't think I need it right now. The starter solenoid wires broke off right at the body of the solenoid with not enough left to repair, new one should be here Monday. Took me a while to find the coil wires as they were under the rear frame cross member. I installed a new coil, ignition switch, multi/shift switch and a battery today and turned the key and the dash lit up! Yes!! The shift indicator was flashing as was the clock. Jumped the solenoid to see if I had spark...nope. Removed the ECU and cleaned all connections and heated it with a heat gun hooked it back up and spark! Poured a little gas into the carb and boom she runs!!!!!!! I did the code check and I am getting code 5 and 11. I am amazed this thing cranked right up. My son and I looked at each other in disbelief, Lol. VID_20250201_185946599[1].mp4

Thanks for the reply. These are the kind of thinking I need. I know that I have always done resistance test on stators on the past but it seems that voltage tests are the new thing. That would tell me if it is actually sending a signal and not juts passing the resistance test. I did check the orange wire from CDI to coil and the the common ground shared by the regulator and CDI as well as the coil ground. As stated earlier I added a ground wire to the engine because Yamaha doesn't use one. Right now getting a service manual is not an option.

What is the AC voltage that should be coming from the stator and trigger coil?

I began to wonder if it was a ground issue, so I ran another cable from the frame to the engine.

Need some feedback here. I picked this machine up with PO saying no spark. I have tried new stator, CDI, and coil. The stator ohms 231 w/r to w/g and .1 red to blue. The coil is .8 primary and 2.53 secondary. I have 12 to the CDI with ign on and the wires from stator to CDI have good continuity. This model only has 12v on or off for ign/kill source. Still no spark?

You are correct. At this point I don't know if/what works or not. The screen is broken but there.

Found it, the PO has jammed a socket on it. I was looking at a manual "electric" shift override kit on ebay for $20. It is supposed to allow you to shift with the button by overriding the the ecu and angle sensor as best I understand it? Anyway for $20 it sounds like a neat trick.

I believe it will. Thank you. The first step is to get power t all the right places and then establish spark. Once I get it running I will work on a way to manual shift the electric shift motor.

That is why I need a wiring diagram to try and get the power flowing to all the right places. I ordered an ignition switch and a multi-switch to start there.

I am gathering parts now. So that will be a great tip to follow up on, thanks. What I really need right now is a wiring diagram so I can see what all has been hacked out of the system.

Just bought this machine for $250 thinking should be good for parts, but now I want to see if I can make it run and ride. It turns over with compression when I put power to the starter, so that made me want to try. It was flipped and then sold to a parts guy who hacked the wiring BAD and left to sit for several years. They tried to bypass everything on the ES by cutting the main power wires from the fuse box and running a new power wire to the dash and straight wiring the fan. It is crazy bad. I need a wiring diagram and will try to get power back to everything that should have it and then do the electric shift manual bypass. Right now it is missing the coil/wires, the dash and shift buttons/start switch is smashed, ignition wires are twisted together... Yeah, it is a mess. Pics to follow! Any help, ideas, manuals, pics, drawings, etc are welcome!

Thanks, that is what I have been searching. So this is what I found. The 1995-2000 front shaft is the same as the Big Bear 350 and Kodiak 400. The 01-05 front drive shaft is listed only for the Wolverine. Not sure what changed from 2000 to 2001? Trying to find something I can modify to fit.

What years were the 4x4 made? I just looked it up and it says 4x4 was made 1995-2001.

Hey guys, I just picked up this quad that hasn't run an a few years. It is missing the front drive shaft. Does anyone have the can measure for me or know of a replacement? If I can get the dimensions I can try to use one from another machine. Thanks!