Savage3

Exactly sir! Or run a jumper wire......the neutral switch has a bad chassis ground. The switch is wired into cdi, no ground equals incomplete circuit. Incomplete circuit = no start. The cdi is shorting the ignition circuit because it thinks the bike is not in neutral. Therefore, the ground fault is the problem. Test circuit and switch. Test from negative battery terminal to neutral switch for good ground. Key on, run switch on....etc Test switch itself as well, keep testing until you find the bad ground. Read no spark thread I listed above, most likely testing procedures in that thread.

Check the neutral switch. The switch may have failed and is grounding the spark. In your case, I'd look at starter button as well on handle bar. If I remember correctly, I believe the neutral switch is wired to the button and a cut off relay as well. Check the wiring diagram first. I believe Mech is on the right track.

Welcome Martin

Ok gents, I'm working so go easy on me. This is a problem as I mentioned earlier. Sorry, I lost focus. Those terminals SHOULD NOT have voltage across them unless you are pushing the starter button. Now, we still have other issues I believe. Looks like we will have to test the switches as well. Can you take a picture of the small terminals on the solenoid? Thanks

I'm not sure if this will be of any help or not fella's

I agree with Mech. Its pointing toward switch or wiring issues. I misunderstood, I thought the starter continued to spin when the engine shut off. Sorry bud, my bad.

There is the problem sir! Take solenoid off the vehicle, bench test. When power is applied, you should have continuity between terminals. When no power is supplied, you should not have continuity. In short, either solenoid is welded or you have constant power in that circuit. First step, bench test solenoid. I have to go to work Boss. If this doesn't make sense, search you tube for bench testing a solenoid. I'll check back later.

Yes sir, Sometimes, the wires go through the neutral switch or other safety switches after pushing start button. We may have to narrow it down. In my humble opinion, it would be a good idea to start with checking power at the solenoid. Current should only be at the (hot) or "S" terminal on the solenoid while pushing the starter button. Once the engine is running and you are no longer pushing start button, there should be no power on that circuit. If there is power while engine is running, then we simply work backward through any safety switches to the starter switch. It appears, either the contacts in the solenoid are getting stuck or one of the switches has a direct short.

Check for battery power at S terminal on solenoid while engine is running. There should only be power when pushing start button. If there is power, either switch is bad or solenoid is bad. Let us know results and we can move to next test.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185463997787 Not much time, cheap replacement CDI in case ya need it. Check either side of circuit as previously mentioned before purchasing part. Many times it's a bad ground, not CDI itself. This is just in case ya need it. Verify that it is correct part! Description states it fits 96-99 Big Bear 350

Sounds like you may have a few issues. I suspect the circuit with the headlight may have a short causing a parasitic draw, hence causing battery issues. The headlight circuit is also on the same circuit as the starter button going to the solenoid in some instances. Turn on DVOM, put selector on DC voltage. Take the black lead of multimeter and put it on negative terminal. Place the red lead on hot wire coming from ignition switch to solenoid. Turn key on Pust start button Give us the DC voltage reading.

Unhook black wire from coil. Then try to start it, check for spark. I'm assuming you don't have other issues. Usually, this will work when you only have one spark. In short, it's a ground issue.

There should be a wire that goes from coil to kill switch. Unplug that wire from coil and you should have spark. I've seen this before......I don't have time to look at diagram now, but I fixed the one spark problem before....

Ignition Coil On the 250/300, the ignition coil is attached to the upper frame behind the right-hand side panel. To access the coil, the seat and right-hand side panel must be removed (see Section 8). On the 400 ACT/TRV, the ignition coil is on top of the engine. To access the coil, the seat and gas tank (see Section 4) must be removed.On the 400 FIS/TBX/500/650 H1/650 V-Twin, the ignition coil is on the left-side frame above the engine. To access the coil, the left-side panel (see Section 2) must be removed. VOLTAGE (Primary Side) NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON position; the emergency stop switch must be in the RUN position. Also, the white/blue wire must be disconnected from the coil. 1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position. 2. Connect the red tester lead to the white/blue wire; then connect the black tester lead to ground. 3. The meter must show 31V ± 20%. 4. With the tester leads connected, depress the starter button. 5. The meter must show 130V ± 20%. NOTE: If the voltage is not as specified in one or both of the above tests, inspect the main wiring harness, connectors, source/charge coil, magneto rotor and magnets, magneto rotor key, or the CD unit