Mech

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Oh, and you should check the idle mixture screw hasn't fallen out.

If the butterfly closes right off, then it can't get air. If it is running lean it might try and make it rev higher than normal, but it can't if the butterfly is fully closed. Are you sure the choke plunger is the right sort and right in ? That bypasses the butterfly. Some have a tapered needle on the end and some don't. If you put a bit of clear hose on the bowl drain and then bend it up the side of the carb it will hopefully fill to the fuel level when you undo the drain screw. That will show you what the float height is and that it is working, or not. If fuel starts running out around the drain screw though then that way won't work, but it works on a few bikes.

Hi Stu, welcome along.. And what do you ride ?

If you jack the back end up Kuba, put it in third or forth gear, then reach under one back wheel and pull it backwards hard, it will spin the motor over.. like a pull start. You could check the spark like that, and start it if it was going to go..

I'm sure the service manual will explain how to get that belt on. And have you backed the throttle cable and the idle speed screw back off to slow that idle ? Something with the carb is not as it should be..

I think you will find Alex that the service manual is the book you want. It has a section in it about servicing but most of it is about repairs. Are the throttle cable and the idle speed screw both backed off Alex ? Are the hoses attached and not blocked ?

Could be Gw.. Does the spark look any better if you use the pull start Kuba ? Have you tried starting it with the pull start ?

The pump and the float can both be tested before you pull the carb apart or order any parts.. The pump should pump, and the float, you tilt the carb on it's side so the float will be hanging down and away from the float needle, then as you blow through the fuel inlet you slowly tilt the carb so the dangling float will start to swing towards the needle. The fuel inlet should get closed off fully as soon as the weight of the float starts to press on the needle.

Yup.. About the only other parts you are likely to need would be a float needle jet, or the diaphragm on the fuel pump, part 9. Those are both inspectable though, and testable.

That works too Mga, and I've done the same for years, but it doesn't always reveal all it might. Parts get superseded and have a new number, and some parts that fit several models all have their own number, but interchange anyway.. sometimes a different colour of finish, such as painted or chromed, have different numbers but are useable.

It does seem a bit loose, but I doubt that oil soaked part is going to make a squeak. So when you say it went into forwards and was quiet then reverse and it was quiet and then forward and it made the squeak.. Do you think it was the shifting that changed something, or was it just a matter of time needed for the squeak to start ? It's really important to diagnose things before we pull them apart, because we can't do any tests or find the technique that will repeatedly and predictably cause the issue once they are apart. If we don't know the technique to repeatedly get the issue to manifest, then we can't test things after the repair to be confident we have fixed it. We might have just temporarily cured the symptom without fixing the problem.. If I was you Mat, I'd be putting it back together and riding it and testing it till I'd found the problem. I definitely wouldn't be splitting the cases. Oily parts don't squeak. Squeaks that appear within a certain speed range only, don't sound like anything from inside the engine to me..

Yeah What, that's what I do, ride them and then adjust them, then test ride again till they drive nicely.. The toe in or out is to counter the effects of camber and these bikes often have things bent or worn so the camber isn't right, so that the toe needs a bit of tweaking.

As Tiha says, if it has spark it is probably a sign all the individual ignition components are working ok. You could check the HT lead for resistance if that is removable, and, depending on the HT cap, it could be shorting the spark through the rubber cap if it has one. A blue spark is good, even a thin one, but a yellow spark is not, not even if it's a big fat yellow spark. It's strange the starting spray didn't even get a kick.. Hopefully a new spark-plug will get it going. The oil in the cylinder from the compression test might have fouled the plug. Old fuel can foul plugs too..

I think I saw another post by you and yeah, just about all the the four wheel drive bikes are meant to have a bit of toe out. The amount you mentioned sounded a bit much, but I haven.t looked in that manual. There are other places online that have free manuals, but this is a pretty friendly and well run site, that just happens to have manuals as well. And the great thing about forums is that sometimes you ask about some problem and people can tell you straight away what it's most likely to be if it's some common model specific problem.. The internet is great for more than just the data it has.

I'd just buy the gasket and O ring kit from honda and then if I needed the float needle or seat or the pump diagram I'd buy those separately. Honda's kit will be good quality... and it will fit.

Honda sell a kit with the O rings and gaskets for $24. It's part number 1 and it's the various things labeled with a 1 in the picture.

Just keihin QB or QB01/2 should do it.. QB is the model, the numbers are specifics about it's setup.. You only need the gaskets and rubber bits and perhaps a float needle and seat.

This is an old thread Parham.. You should download a service manual and have a read.. It will show you.

You were holding the revs up too long... Keep gently cycling it always having the motor either accelerating lightly or decelerating sharply.. And use less throttle.. I bet I could fill your yard with smoke out of that thing.. I think you will find the oil rings are not doing their job.. Clean the breathers first though.. make sure you can blow through all the hoses except for the one with a restriction.. that should be harder to blow through but it should flow a small amount consistently. If you find a blocked breather, after clearing it, try riding it so it has long runs of steady, heavy load, without any sudden or hard acceleration and only gentle deceleration. Find a hill, use higher gears wherever possible, and don't let it rev away under light loads, change up as soon as possible.. Sometimes with a blocked breather the oil that gets blown up gets under the rings and they start floating on it.. If we can put a steady compression on it more than not, the rings slowly scrape the oil away and the rings reseat metal to metal. You might get lucky.

Sounds like it needs the breather cleaned out and checking.. There' a restrictor in most of them, and, running up under the gear shift cover there is a breather pipe that can get squashed somehow.. Can't remember exactly but I've found them clamped down under the shift or the covers or something..

When you are doing that rev test, don't let it get to an idle, and don't hold it at the revs either. The motor has to be constantly either accelerating or decelerating. From near idle speed, up to revs and back down again should take about.. err.. one to one and a half seconds.. Only give it light throttle, but snap the throttle shut. At the right combination it will start smoking.. Find the right combination and then stick to that for thirty seconds and it will get worse and worse.

It would appear to be the rings are worn, but before ripping it apart I'd check the engine breather system. First thing is check if the crankcase is pressurinsing. Idle it for a few minutes and then take the filler cap off and see if it puffs out air as it comes off. Put the cap on and run it or take it foe a ride and then with the motor stopped undo the filler and check for pressure. It's common to have a very small amount of pressure in there, but it shouldn't hiss or push on the cap at all as you take it off. With the cap off and the warm engine idling, check to see if it's puffing much air and oil out.. A bit of oil splashing is normal. There is a restriction in the breather that can block and cause either excessive pressure while it's running or even, if it's bad, residual pressure in the crankcase. If the breather is clean, and if in doubt you should clean it, including the restriction that will be in the breather pipe somewhere I think. The restriction is sometimes under or in the air box, then, give the motor a few repeated revs. You want to open the throttle much slower than you were in those videos, but let the revs build to about the revs in the video, then as soon as it's up to revs close the throttle right off suddenly, when it gets near idle revs, but without letting it idle, give it a bit of throttle again till the revs build to the video revs. Keep doing that repeatedly and if you get the throttle opening speed and amount right, and the revs it goes to right, it will start smoking if it's the rings, and the more you do it, the worse the smoke will get. Try different amounts of throttle opening speed and amount, and revs, at some point it will start smoking bad if it's the rings. The revs in the video are the highest you want to go to, probably a little less will work better. I've bought cars for people cheap by showing the owner how much it smokes.. haha..

Partzilla says they will fit.. If in doubt about partzilla, we can always look the parts up and go through the same process on another parts place.. They should both agree.

The chains have to be really really worn before they jump off.. If they backfire though, or kick back as they are stopping, and the tensioner isn't good.. then they jump. Is the old chain really really worn ?