
Mech
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Everything posted by Mech
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2007 Honda Rancher TRX420FE7 gets stuck in gear after 20 minutes
Mech replied to Don983's topic in Honda ATV Forum
You should try to diagnose the problem before fitting parts. Since it fixes it for a bit by switching off and on again it sounds to me like it will be an electronic(PCM) problem, rather than a mechanical or electrical(wires, switches,,electric motor) problem First thing is, is the dash flashing at you ? Whether it is or not you should try to retrieve any trouble codes, which you can do by counting the flashes if it is flashing, or by shorting a wire if the dash isn't flashing at you. You need to download and read the manual on how to do those things. If there are no trouble codes either current or stored, then the next step is to inspect the clutch adjustment. After that it's back to the manual to carry out a systematic process to lead you to the problem. -
2010 Honda rancher Trax 420 Will not engage in reverse
Mech replied to deanndrasue's topic in Honda ATV Forum
Oh, and is it two wheel drive or four ? Do you know the model TRX420F** or TRXT**- 3 replies
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2010 Honda rancher Trax 420 Will not engage in reverse
Mech replied to deanndrasue's topic in Honda ATV Forum
Hi. There are two types of transmission in those, an automatic, and a manual with or without an electric shift, do you know what sort of transmission it is? If it drives in forwards but not in reverse it sounds like the gearbox has bust something(reverse gear). There's a small chance the back axle is playing up but I'd suspect the gearbox. You could get someone to look at the drive shaft going from the engine to the rear axle while it's doing the shuddering to see if the shaft is turning steadily or whether it's shuddering too. If the shaft is turning steadily but the real wheels are shuddering then it points to the back axle, or, if the shaft is not turning at a constant speed it points to something inside the gearbox. The next check is to drain and look at the engine oil or back axle oil, depending on what you found in the first inspection, to see if it has metal flakes or chunks in it.- 3 replies
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https://global.honda/about/group/manufacturing-facilities/
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Oh, and you should check the idle mixture screw hasn't fallen out.
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If the butterfly closes right off, then it can't get air. If it is running lean it might try and make it rev higher than normal, but it can't if the butterfly is fully closed. Are you sure the choke plunger is the right sort and right in ? That bypasses the butterfly. Some have a tapered needle on the end and some don't. If you put a bit of clear hose on the bowl drain and then bend it up the side of the carb it will hopefully fill to the fuel level when you undo the drain screw. That will show you what the float height is and that it is working, or not. If fuel starts running out around the drain screw though then that way won't work, but it works on a few bikes.
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Hi Stu, welcome along.. And what do you ride ?
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If you jack the back end up Kuba, put it in third or forth gear, then reach under one back wheel and pull it backwards hard, it will spin the motor over.. like a pull start. You could check the spark like that, and start it if it was going to go..
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I'm sure the service manual will explain how to get that belt on. And have you backed the throttle cable and the idle speed screw back off to slow that idle ? Something with the carb is not as it should be..
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I think you will find Alex that the service manual is the book you want. It has a section in it about servicing but most of it is about repairs. Are the throttle cable and the idle speed screw both backed off Alex ? Are the hoses attached and not blocked ?
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Could be Gw.. Does the spark look any better if you use the pull start Kuba ? Have you tried starting it with the pull start ?
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OEM Carb rebuild kit what info do I need to find a decent kit?
Mech replied to p5200's topic in Honda ATV Forum
The pump and the float can both be tested before you pull the carb apart or order any parts.. The pump should pump, and the float, you tilt the carb on it's side so the float will be hanging down and away from the float needle, then as you blow through the fuel inlet you slowly tilt the carb so the dangling float will start to swing towards the needle. The fuel inlet should get closed off fully as soon as the weight of the float starts to press on the needle. -
OEM Carb rebuild kit what info do I need to find a decent kit?
Mech replied to p5200's topic in Honda ATV Forum
Yup.. About the only other parts you are likely to need would be a float needle jet, or the diaphragm on the fuel pump, part 9. Those are both inspectable though, and testable. -
That works too Mga, and I've done the same for years, but it doesn't always reveal all it might. Parts get superseded and have a new number, and some parts that fit several models all have their own number, but interchange anyway.. sometimes a different colour of finish, such as painted or chromed, have different numbers but are useable.
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It does seem a bit loose, but I doubt that oil soaked part is going to make a squeak. So when you say it went into forwards and was quiet then reverse and it was quiet and then forward and it made the squeak.. Do you think it was the shifting that changed something, or was it just a matter of time needed for the squeak to start ? It's really important to diagnose things before we pull them apart, because we can't do any tests or find the technique that will repeatedly and predictably cause the issue once they are apart. If we don't know the technique to repeatedly get the issue to manifest, then we can't test things after the repair to be confident we have fixed it. We might have just temporarily cured the symptom without fixing the problem.. If I was you Mat, I'd be putting it back together and riding it and testing it till I'd found the problem. I definitely wouldn't be splitting the cases. Oily parts don't squeak. Squeaks that appear within a certain speed range only, don't sound like anything from inside the engine to me..
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Yeah What, that's what I do, ride them and then adjust them, then test ride again till they drive nicely.. The toe in or out is to counter the effects of camber and these bikes often have things bent or worn so the camber isn't right, so that the toe needs a bit of tweaking.
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As Tiha says, if it has spark it is probably a sign all the individual ignition components are working ok. You could check the HT lead for resistance if that is removable, and, depending on the HT cap, it could be shorting the spark through the rubber cap if it has one. A blue spark is good, even a thin one, but a yellow spark is not, not even if it's a big fat yellow spark. It's strange the starting spray didn't even get a kick.. Hopefully a new spark-plug will get it going. The oil in the cylinder from the compression test might have fouled the plug. Old fuel can foul plugs too..
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I think I saw another post by you and yeah, just about all the the four wheel drive bikes are meant to have a bit of toe out. The amount you mentioned sounded a bit much, but I haven.t looked in that manual. There are other places online that have free manuals, but this is a pretty friendly and well run site, that just happens to have manuals as well. And the great thing about forums is that sometimes you ask about some problem and people can tell you straight away what it's most likely to be if it's some common model specific problem.. The internet is great for more than just the data it has.
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OEM Carb rebuild kit what info do I need to find a decent kit?
Mech replied to p5200's topic in Honda ATV Forum
I'd just buy the gasket and O ring kit from honda and then if I needed the float needle or seat or the pump diagram I'd buy those separately. Honda's kit will be good quality... and it will fit. -
OEM Carb rebuild kit what info do I need to find a decent kit?
Mech replied to p5200's topic in Honda ATV Forum
Honda sell a kit with the O rings and gaskets for $24. It's part number 1 and it's the various things labeled with a 1 in the picture. -
OEM Carb rebuild kit what info do I need to find a decent kit?
Mech replied to p5200's topic in Honda ATV Forum
Just keihin QB or QB01/2 should do it.. QB is the model, the numbers are specifics about it's setup.. You only need the gaskets and rubber bits and perhaps a float needle and seat. -
96 QuadRunner LT-4WD 250 - bogs and blue smoke when warm
Mech replied to erthnet's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
This is an old thread Parham.. You should download a service manual and have a read.. It will show you. -
1998 Suzuki Quadrunner LT-F250 Smokes When Riding
Mech replied to Parham's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
You were holding the revs up too long... Keep gently cycling it always having the motor either accelerating lightly or decelerating sharply.. And use less throttle.. I bet I could fill your yard with smoke out of that thing.. I think you will find the oil rings are not doing their job.. Clean the breathers first though.. make sure you can blow through all the hoses except for the one with a restriction.. that should be harder to blow through but it should flow a small amount consistently. If you find a blocked breather, after clearing it, try riding it so it has long runs of steady, heavy load, without any sudden or hard acceleration and only gentle deceleration. Find a hill, use higher gears wherever possible, and don't let it rev away under light loads, change up as soon as possible.. Sometimes with a blocked breather the oil that gets blown up gets under the rings and they start floating on it.. If we can put a steady compression on it more than not, the rings slowly scrape the oil away and the rings reseat metal to metal. You might get lucky. -
1998 Suzuki Quadrunner LT-F250 Smokes When Riding
Mech replied to Parham's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
Sounds like it needs the breather cleaned out and checking.. There' a restrictor in most of them, and, running up under the gear shift cover there is a breather pipe that can get squashed somehow.. Can't remember exactly but I've found them clamped down under the shift or the covers or something.. -
1998 Suzuki Quadrunner LT-F250 Smokes When Riding
Mech replied to Parham's topic in Suzuki ATV Forum
When you are doing that rev test, don't let it get to an idle, and don't hold it at the revs either. The motor has to be constantly either accelerating or decelerating. From near idle speed, up to revs and back down again should take about.. err.. one to one and a half seconds.. Only give it light throttle, but snap the throttle shut. At the right combination it will start smoking.. Find the right combination and then stick to that for thirty seconds and it will get worse and worse.