Mech

Yes you should, and I'd change the thermostat too.. I'd give it a couple of runs first though and check it hasn't developed any leaks(on the water pump seal for instance), from sitting, and I'd gently pinch all the coolant hoses between my fingers listening for the sound of the string reinforcing in the hose breaking. It sounds like rustling leaves or something like that being scrunched. You'll hear and feel it if the reinforcing is weak and breaking under your fingers. Then change the coolant and thermostat and fix any leaks or hoses all at the same time.

If you drain the tank and drain the carb with it's drain screw on the bottom, then fill the tank and switch the key on and off a few times with the carby drain screw still open, it will empty the pump too. A think to watch for is condesated water in the tank. It might pay to take the tank's fuel tap out and rock the bike around to make sure you get everything out of it. Then a quarter cup of methylated spirits in the tank with the first fill will absorb any water, which will then get burnt up as it goes through the engine. The transmission oil too, it might have condensation in it if it's sat outside. If it's been run, and the oil hasn't got a milky or cloudy look to it, it will be ok, but if it hasn't been run, the water might be in the bottom and get mixed into the oil once it gets used. Oil is cheap.

It sounds like the old switch might have a defective lock... so if you are worried about security it might be a good idea to change it.

https://partshawk.com/wix-wl10090-engine-oil-filter.html

No trouble. The whole manual's in the download section..

The crank will be broken..

You're welcome..

View File Linhai LH300 ATV-D T3 EFI Owner's/Operator's Manual Owners manual with wiring diagram for a Linhai ATV300-D EFI T3B Year unknown. Submitter Mech Submitted 03/07/2023 Category Other ATV  

One of these might be useful.. https://www.manualslib.com/brand/linhai/

When you say unplugged I'm thinking you are meaning the small wires from the start button.. Assuming that to be so, the starter solenoid will have it's contacts seized closed, either because the contacts have arced and welded themselves together, or because the plunger that pushes the contacts closed has got dirty or corroded and seized up enough that the magnet has enough strength to pull it in and the contacts closed, but too tight for the return spring to return the plunger and allow the contacts to part.. It needs a new starter solenoid..

Hi. There is an owners manual that I think I got from the manuals section, and it says the battery is an 18Ah but if you fit accessories to fit a bigger one. The manual has a trouble shooting section, though no specific specs for checking components, and it has a wiring diagram which might be handy. You can use a jumper pack to test things but be very careful not to let it get disconnected if the engine is running, and get a battery as soon as possible once it's going in case the jumper does strain the charging system.. And I think your first post needs to be edited to remove a full stop or something from way way down the bottom of the page. It might just be that it needs a lot of "Enter" spaces removed..

output.pdf

Having to drain it down to only one third full before it shows any change doesn't sound good enough to me. Some do, as you guys are saying, stay near full for a long time, but not I don't think to that degree.. That's not even a useful fuel gauge.. You'd have gone far too far out to make it back by the time the gauge even started to show any fuel used. That's just inviting trouble and worse than having no gauge. Something in there might be bent or need adjusting somehow so it swings through a different arc and gets the full travel of the depth of the tank, or, the digital part of the gauge needs work surely ? They wouldn't have designed it that poorly. I'd check that the gauge did range from empty to full with a full swing of the float's arm first, to be sure it's not an electrical problem. If it's not quite going from full to empty by a small amount, it might be possible to bend a stop on the arm, but watch the rheostat can travel that far. If it still doesn't go from full to empty it could be a bad earth on the tank unit or the dash. then I'd measure the distance from the gauge's mount to the bottom of the tank, and to the full point of the tank, and then compare that to the floats distance traveled, and to the full and empty heights of the float. The float needs to travel through the right height distance, and through the right range. Sometimes putting a bend in the arm close to the pivot will get things right, and other times bending it right out near the end by the float helps. You might need to put two zig-zag bends in it so it shortens the arm, or straighten something to make the arm's effective length longer. First step is to get the float to travel the right distance up and down by adjusting the effective length of the arm, and then bend it again to get it to the right full or empty height, and it should read better than it is. If there is any need to compromise then do it so the empty reading is the more accurate one.

Nothing as good as vaseline.. WD40 maybe. Or some spray on grease.. I actually use white petroleum jelly which is a slightly heavier grade of vaseline, and there is amber petroleum jelly also thick. Both can be got in tubs from an engineering supply shop I'd think. It's cheap and good for holding things in place when you are assembling things and waterproofing and several uses.

Fill electrical connectors up with vaseline or white petroleum jelly(same things) and it will waterproof them. I used to put it all over my HT leads and cap too and could go through water up to the handlebars on my old two wheelers.

There's also a thing called a "stopper lever" that plays up.. MarkinAR in here is the man to ask about it.. Look him up and message him..

Nor are mine Mate.. And my back isn't what it used to be, I'm not as strong as I once was, my stamina for hard work is waning fast. At least I'm still healthy.. haha.. This getting old's a bugger..

So what was it, electrical or a stuck float ?

With the wheels straight ahead, prop/lay a plank down each side touching the back wheels, and check the fronts are both in by the same amount, and that both front wheels have similar toe in or out. Most four wheel drive bikes seem to have a bit of toe out, rather than toe in..

Check out the back end too, that could cause it. . Also check all four wheels are aligned. When you push it, do the bars turn themselves to the left ? Or does the bike just go left with the bars still straight ? It must be something bad if it veers just pushing it. Tyres all worn evenly ?

Do you mean it keeps veering slowly to the left on a straight flat road ? People have described things as pulling left, but then when we discussed it it turned out that the real problem was it turned left easily but needed to be wrestled to turn right. If you have the wrong amount of toe-in it will normally just get erratic and keep trying to veer left or right, but not be happy going straight. It is important though that both tie rods are adjusted to the same length. If one rod is longer than the other, even though the overall toe in is right, it can cause pulling. Are you sure the caster and camber are right ? Some makes have different length/width A arms on different years. If the new arm is a bit different to the original it will upset the camber and/or caster. Other things that cause dragging to one side are dragging brakes, uneven tyre pressures, bad wheel bearings.. And it could be a problem at the rear..

You should try to diagnose the problem before fitting parts. Since it fixes it for a bit by switching off and on again it sounds to me like it will be an electronic(PCM) problem, rather than a mechanical or electrical(wires, switches,,electric motor) problem First thing is, is the dash flashing at you ? Whether it is or not you should try to retrieve any trouble codes, which you can do by counting the flashes if it is flashing, or by shorting a wire if the dash isn't flashing at you. You need to download and read the manual on how to do those things. If there are no trouble codes either current or stored, then the next step is to inspect the clutch adjustment. After that it's back to the manual to carry out a systematic process to lead you to the problem.

Oh, and is it two wheel drive or four ? Do you know the model TRX420F** or TRXT**

Hi. There are two types of transmission in those, an automatic, and a manual with or without an electric shift, do you know what sort of transmission it is? If it drives in forwards but not in reverse it sounds like the gearbox has bust something(reverse gear). There's a small chance the back axle is playing up but I'd suspect the gearbox. You could get someone to look at the drive shaft going from the engine to the rear axle while it's doing the shuddering to see if the shaft is turning steadily or whether it's shuddering too. If the shaft is turning steadily but the real wheels are shuddering then it points to the back axle, or, if the shaft is not turning at a constant speed it points to something inside the gearbox. The next check is to drain and look at the engine oil or back axle oil, depending on what you found in the first inspection, to see if it has metal flakes or chunks in it.