Mech

Over there Gw ----> It'll make you laugh.

" ive seen that if u unplug it then it stops it from messing things up and then i tried that still no work ". " Oh my bad for not specifying that. The rectifier is what “it” is. I seen a video about the same problem im having and that guys problem was that and so was the comments aswell, i was thinking that theres something happening when the flywheel starts to spin faster, maybe the pickup coil is bad at high rpms, i also want to add that im running it without the airfilter because it was rotted away with time and some articles ive read say that that can cause the issue but from my experience it never has ". Doh.. just remembered Gw.. haha.. It's in that other site.

There was a thread in here briefly this morning, and old thread, in which someone had the similar symptoms and cured it by fixing some problem with the park brake switch. Someone this morning explained that kawasaki had that feature.. a rev limiter if the park brake was on. Seemed unlikely but like you Gw I looked at the wiring.. didn't seem to be any connection. Perhaps the original poster in the old thread had incidentally fixed the problem and the brake light switch wasn't really the cure, and this morning's poster was wrong.. I'll let you know what Yoshi says in the other forum if it doesn't come out in here..

And I agree.. start a new thread so we can find it easily.... One thread with all the circumstances, symptoms and questions.. Cut-n-pastes are quick.

Looks like you've hit the ten posts requirement Chevy.. That little ten on your profile thingy there..

What's the "it" that you unplugged ? The "it" sounds like what needs fixing.. From another site Gw.. He unplugged the park brake switch or the regulator, and it seems to have made it run better.. or possibly right... It will be interesting if it's the brake switch, because I can't see any connection in the wiring diagram.. Hmm.

And they will tell you what other models your wiring loom will fit. If your's fits some other model bike, then that other bike's loom will fit yours.

Yup try a standard service/tune.. plug and air filter, If it has a carb drain it with the screw on the bottom, if it's efi then perhaps a new fuel filter, then adjust the valves.. Those are probably the easiest and first steps.

Have a look here and see if you can identify your model.. Partzilla will tell you what any part you choose will also fit.. Look the part up, choose the part like you are going to buy it, and they will take you to a new page where it tells you what other models that wiring fits. If your wiring fits some other model, then the other model wiring will fit your bike. You can check their opinion by doing the same process in the other site. https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_atv_2007/parts https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2007

It could be a bad connection, uncharged battery or bad starter.. Do the lights dim right out when you push the button ? Did you charge the new battery ? Have you tried bridging the two big contacts on the starter solenoid or used a jumper to put battery positive straight to the starter. If you put power straight to the starter and it doesn't go, then the starter is crook or you have a bad earth connection or lead. That would be the first step I think.. Try that and report back what happens.

There are a lot of variations of BB 400 Chevy, best you give us the whole model designation.. YMF400***.. the suffix we need.

I think I'd either try adjusting the cable or rod so it goes into gear further, or disconnect the cable/rod and shift it by hand on the engine and see if it goes into gear further.

If you look the part up in partzilla, and then choose the part as though you were going to buy it, it will take you to another page where it will tell you what other bikes the part fits. If your wiring fits another year or model, then that other models wiring will also fit yours. If you don't trust partzilla, then look the parts up on some one or more other parts places, a lot of which will also say what other models the part fits.

Crikey mate, that's a curly one. It will vary hugely depending on how often the bike's been worked on.. The bolts and screws holding the body work alone can take from minutes to hours to get out if it hasn't been off for a long time. The rear suspension bolts can be mongols. Exhausts.. so many things could be seized up.. If it was all in good order and been apart and kept greased I'd say six hours would be about minimum I'd quote, hoping it was only going to take four. If there are problems though it could easily turn into a whole day's work. .

I just reread and if it has a carb then it won't have trouble codes.. disregard that. If it's got a carb though then I don't think it's going to have any limp mode either.. Can you explain what you meant by resetting the limp mode please. And, I just read in here that some kawasaki limit the revs if the park brake is engaged, which it will do by reading the brake light voltage.. Might pay to check the park brake switch and operation.

Yeah inspecting the wiring is a good start.. Check the fuses. Check the wiring for anything chafe or unplugged, then get the manual and start reading. It uses a CAN digital communication system and the various computers onboard all communicate and record any problems. The communication is all along two wires and each computer recognises it's own messages and responds to them, we can't test for communication with a test light or multimeter. We can test the units are connected, but we can't read the digital signals.. we have to use the polaris software on a laptop or rely on the stored trouble codes we can get out of the dash to diagnose problems. The trouble codes are only an indication of a reading that is out of range and doesn't necessarily mean the component is faulty, it could be a wire broken, or a mechanical fault causing the bad reading. Check the fuses and wiring, then try to read the trouble codes and let us know what they are.

Might pay to try a new spark plug before spending too much more money. And can you describe what it actually does when it won't go over 2500.. does it start killing and then restarting the engine, or does it slowly fade out of power, does opening the throttle faster or slower, or more or less make any difference, does it do it in neutral or only in gears and under a load ? And if you download a service manual and have a look it will tell you how to check for trouble codes.. They are something you should check for.

You need to download a service manual and follow the diagnostic process..

There will be some sort of interlock to prevent it going into more than one range at a time, and on some models of yamaha that interlock gives trouble. The resident expert is a guy in here called MarkinAR.. If you message him he will probably be able to talk you through what to check.

Lots of modern machines with resistor leads or caps have a very thin spark, and often don't show up so good in bright light. As long as the spark is blue and not yellow it will be ok. Sparks can be produced but then lost by shorting down the side of the spark plug porcelain if the cap or rubber boot is cracked, wet or dirty. Spark can look fine, and jump the gap when the plug's resting on the head testing it, but not jump the gap when there is compression. It takes a lot better spark to jump through compressed air. Stale fuel can foul sparkplugs without the engine even starting up. Just a few ignitions of old stale fuel while trying to start them, and a slow burn inside the cylinder, and a brand new plug can be fouled.

You could and it might be ok for a while but it's a sign something's leaking. You probably need to bleed it to find the leak though so it might as well be done.

Yup. I'd try to get it going cheap and have a ride and see if it doesn't perhaps any other problems.. well not too many anyway.. A lot of that stuff is non wearing and will be fine. If the windings are not damaged then perhaps new pawls and springs and new allen key bolts.

Oh.. actually.. relooking at that first photo I notice it has it's ratchet pawls on the inside not the outside of it.. The outside doesn't need to be smooth and polished on that.

Are your pictures showing the starter's hub's been bolted inside the flywheel/rotor ? Bad one. If that's not what haappened, you need to inspect the part that runs on that bit in the first picture, which is the starter's hub.. And that hub in the picture needs replacing. It's for the starter's one way clutch. The one way clutch has a lot of oval rollers that jamb one way, but they have to slide over that hub when the bike's running.. That hub needs to be smooth and polished around it's periphery. If I'm wrong about the hub being inside the flywheel then you also need to inspect(and probably replace) the sprag/oneway clutch. I can't quite make out what that stuff it that's smeared on the inside of the flywheel/rotor, but if I could clean that off nicely, and the bolt holes are still ok, I might refit that part. It's not a wearing part, if the new starter hub bolts on flat and concentric on the back, and the bolts do up seated in their countersinks properly it will be ok as far as I can tell from a photo. I'd want to clean it up with a scraper though AND run my fingers over it feeling the surface was smooth and fit for the new parts to mate together..

Always recheck your work first.. It's nearly always the cause in a case like that.