Mech

Oh yeah, I use new hydraulics these days.. largely because it's so hard to get new seals and boots these days, (not to mention the valves some have), and the cylinders are all aluminum and don't hone up so good. And it does take longer to do up hydraulics. There are more pitfalls. I think the economics of things are different in different countries too.. Parts are dear here..

They're a permanent magnet motor, and both ends come off so you can fit the brushes and back cap on to the armature, then slide the armature through the body and fit the other end on. Two long bolts, and a washer and nut on the power terminal, and it's all done. And the brushes don't last long.. relatively speaking.. Some people that stop and start their bikes a lot, replace them after about four years. Sometimes brushes just get stuck in their holders from sitting. Brushes are way the most common fault.

I think people over estimate how long things take.. Those starters come apart in three minutes on the bench, or less, and they take ten minutes to put together, all greased up and tested.

The bearings are good for about a million revolutions. It's possible to pick out the dust seals and apply a little grease in they seem dry. I always pull things to bits before condemning them anyway, and it takes ten minutes to put those starters back together. Yeah it used to be about $350 for a starter, they are still about $180 yanky which is this week about .. Er $350 still.. Lat week it would have been a bit less. Brush sets I just saw are now from $15 to $23 kiwi.

Lol.

Last set of brushes, springs and plate I got was $27 kiwi.. I'd have trouble justifying a new starter to my customers at that rate.

I've always taught people to lay things out to a method when they are pulling things apart. So everything gets taken out and then layed down in the same order they came out. The first part on a shaft goes to the left, left side down, then the next part to the right of that and left side down then the next goes to the right and left side down. Or, outer part nearest me and flipped so the outer is down, then the next further from me and outer side down... And I always use the same technique,, Near me, or my toolbox which is at one end of my bench. If I'm out on a job, the toolbox is still my reference point. If we take a part out and inspect it for wear and damage, and make sure we understand what it is and does before we put it down, it aids enormously in making sure we repair every fault or potential future fault, get the quote absolutely right with no overlooked parts we have to explain later, and it always goes back together again correctly. Ripping things apart in a hurry... is never a good idea.

Lol Eugen.. That hasn't happened yet..

Yeah.. suzuki LTZ400, and some old kawasaki raptors.. probably plenty in the sport models.

I was reading the book and I see if has several different spark plugs they use, some resistor and some not. If you have a resistor cap which some do, then you won't need the resistor plug, and if you do use a resister plug and cap the spark will be weak looking. Next, it's not a cdi, it's a twelve volt coil, it has more resistance than a cdi coil. Be careful if buying a new coil. It needs good power and earth connections. It would be a good idea to check the full 12 volts is getting to the coil through the switches and fuses etc.. And that it has a good earth. You only need to check the one pickup coil resistance, the charging for the battery is a separate system.

If the books gives a table or resistances for the cdi then yeah sure, do that test. But if the cdi is firing the spark plug at all it's probably not the problem. I'd suspect the ignition coil or it's lead. Some modern systems with resistor leads or caps do have very skinny sparks that are hard to see in bright light.. If you have a timing light put that on and see if the spark is regular. And I suppose you have checked for fuel problems ? Isn't flooded ? Hasn't run out of fuel ? Getting fuel right into the carb ? Have you tried the carb drain screw at the bottom, it might let water out, or reveal a lack of fuel flow if the tap is on.

Yes I was wondering how many of these get put in wrong..

Ha.. God spotting Eugen. The end might be in sight Gw..

Oh I just realised what Eugen was saying.. Yeah good point Eugen.. it does look like it could get flipped over...

That core needs to be close to the metal tag as it goes past. Much the same as in older versions, a few thou is about right.. I suspect it's position won't be adjustable, so unless it's the wrong version it should be right unless it's an eighth of an inch away. A sixteenth of an inch would be about the max gap I would think..

You mean the metal tag is there ? It's not a magnet, just mild steel. If the tag is there then you need to check the trigger coils has a magnetic core. If the bike sat for a long time the magnet may have got weak. If it's a magnetic core coil, you should be able to get some very small voltage from it by passing a piece of metal closely past it.. the faster the better.. If it's not a magnetic core then it's the more modern type that needs power going through it to induce a magnetic field which then gets changed by the metal tag going past. The cdi detects the change of resistance caused by the change in magnetic field. It will work in one of those two ways, or have a problem related to which sort it is and how it's meant to operate. And finally, make sure there are no flakes, or little accumulations of rust powder, that could rise up and bridge the gap between the metal tag and the trigger coil's core. That will stop either sort working.

Most of the service manuals discuss the variable aspects of the clutch and drive system It's complicated and everything you change effects other things. If you are doing it then you really should download a manual and have a read, or try to get someone that knows what they are doing to give you a hand. There are some good books about the belt drive systems been written for snow-mobile tuning.

If it\s a sort of crumbly metal it's a brush. You get new brushes with new springs and the plate they are mounted on all together for a few bucks. You need to check the armature and commutator for damage, and give the bearings a spin and see they are quiet, lube them if it seems like they could do with it. The bearings mostly last for several sets of brushes. . When you're putting it together it's a good idea to smear a bit of vaseline on all the joins between parts and the O rings. It keeps the water out.

I think you need to identify what it is you are hoping to achieve..

This might be it.. YFB250F-94.pdf

I can't make out any tag Gw.. It looks to me like a reflection of the cases that I'm seeing.. And that's with my specs.. They generally have a metal tag about twenty by ten mills and about three mm thick.. Spot welded on..

We\re still working on it.. I think. The charging isn't working, their battery only holds eight volts, there is no air filter, some of the wiring is fried, and the stator has 30 ohms resistance..

Ok.. A flake of rust could be the problem.. Is the metal tab still on the outside of the rotor/flywheel ? The one that fires the trigger coil.. Interesting that that stator doesn't look like the ones in the book with the extra large "kick-back coil/winding".. That's not green corrosion down where the wires go into the trigger coil is it ?

The test in the book says to test the coil with the cap off the lead, and it should be between 10-16 Kohms.. I suspect the cap doesn't have a resistor built into it. Use a small split pit shoved up the lead and clipped onto the spark plug and try running it, if it runs ok and doesn't make massive interference to a nearby radio then it will probably have a resistor lead on the coil and it will be ok with a zero resistance cap.