Mech

Yup well you need to have a coil that can produce good sparks off 12 volts when doing that No1 bench test above. Once you have a coil that you know can produce good spark, then you can use that to test the rest of the system..

Your coils don't sound good to me. Their resistance is too low, which means they draw more current than they should, and they don't produce a good spark on the bench test. The ignition unit will likely have several capacitors in it, one of which could be connected from the coil's negative to earth in the same manner as in old points systems. There will probably be other capacitors used in the timing advance, and dwell calculations. The Kawasaki manual warns against disconnecting the battery while the engine is running, or putting the battery in backwards as it may cause IC damage. IC stands for integrated circuit. If it's had the battery in backwards then it could be the unit. But then I'd expect you'd get no spark at all.

Well I think if I was there I'd have a magnifying lens out and I'd be inspecting things minutely(including the rockers) for signs of where they mate up or rub on one other, trying to figure what is meant to hold the rocker up. I'm pretty sure that mechanism won't force the valve open by force, it will just prop it up after the cam has lifted it, and, it's likely to get the prop trapped under there till the next valve lift when the prop flicks out of the way again.. that big spring I think does that flicking out of the way. It's likely/possible that the propping up of the rocker happens when the engine bounces backwards as it stops. Not sure at all about how exactly because I haven't seen one of those before, but those are fairly common operating principles for auto de-compressors.

It sounds like the spark would be ok once it was running, but I suspect the lower voltage when using the starter is killing the spark. Are you sure your battery is big enough ? If you jack the back end of the bike up and block it, then reach under a back wheel and pull back and upwards you should be able to spin the engine over when it's in a high gear. You could check how the spark looks doing that, and, you might even be able to start the bike like that. If you can get it to start and run long enough to warm up it might be right. The description of the headlight bulb in place of the coil sounded a bit strange.. The fact it got brighter as you kept cranking. It might have just been the bulb getting warmed up and so normal, but perhaps you could try putting the same bulb on the coil's power wire but earth it with a jumper. That will test the 12 supply to the coil. Then with the key on so the unit is powered up, use a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the bulb, and use the ignition unit to earth it as you spin the motor over. The unit only turns the earth on to the coil for a few milliseconds at a time, so the light should only be dull. The HT(high tension) spark occurs as the earth gets disconnected and the magnetic field in the coil collapses.

Chain it to a tree and use a chain block to haul the bend out. Blocks of wood under it and big levers.. It'll bend. To fix camber you need to move the bottom arm out, not forward.. Moving it forwards' going to effect the caster.

One of those rockers looks like it's better made than the other. I wonder if it's not genuine and causing the problem. It looks like the other rougher rocker has a bit of over-hang to the side. I wonder if that's meant to get held up by that bump on the sprag clutch thing.

I saw overhaul kits for them. They had kits for models with and without the auto de-compressor. The de-compressor kits had that bracket and the plain kits didn't.

Yeah I couldn't find any pictures of it.. I still think it's to decompress somehow. Could that plate get turned over or around ? I have a feeling the flat bit on the cam shaft is going to be there for some reason. I found parts manuals for the motor, but there were none of the lifter or the lever shown.

"Locking up", usually refers to an engine seizing.. which I presume is not your problem ? Can you describe what happens, and what you do about it to keep going.. And what was it at the mechanics for... Perhaps you should take it back and ask them nicely to fix whatever they have done..

Check your security settings Guys !!

It does sound like valve guide seals, but it could be rings as well. To test the rings you get it warmed up and then start giving it a little amount of throttle so it revs up to about two-thousand revs gently, then you snap the throttle shut, and just keep repeating that process and if you get the revs right, and the closing the throttle right, it will start pumping out smoke if the rings are bad. Oil is cheap though.. I'd just keep it full of oil, but not too full which could make smoking and oil consumption worse, and keep riding it.

If the cam timing was off by 180 degrees then turning the crank 360 degrees will bring it to the right place again. If the rotor key was broken though then the ignition and the cam timing could be right off..

It's not going to be to prevent the engine turning backwards.. The mounting bracket isn't tough enough for that, and it would damage the cam chain. It will be for a de-compressor. I see that the cam has a flat machined onto it right next to that thing. I'd suspect that has something to do with it, and I'd suspect there is a part missing..

I'd try a new plug..

Test one should have made heaps of sparks at the plug if the jumper was scratching over the coil's terminal.. You need a new coil and it should be a quite high resistance one.. About 2-4 Ohms..

Might pay to confirm the timing mark on the crank is in fact at top dead center.. If you take note of where the crank is when the piston is some certain distance down, both before and after TDC, then halve the distance on the rotor, it gives a pretty accurate check. To make it accurate you have to be moving the piston up just before taking the measurement..

Could it have a sheared key on the crank ? Are you sure your spark plug is good ?

One rocker looks nicely made !

Then, if you're real sure all your work is right, is the fuel fresh, are you really sure the spark plug is firing under the new improved compression ?

Oh. Yeah.. the cam timing.. haha.. Or a tight valve or an air leak into the inlet,

I think the lever is attached to a shaft. The "rivet" is a stamped join between the shaft and lever. There's another rotating part behind the lever. The part behind the lever looks like it may poke at the rocker on the right.. It might hold the rocker up..

If the stator puts out power then it will probably be fine. You could test it with a light bulb. A car headlight would be ok at idle, or a household bulb should glow with a few revs on.

Yup that thing at the top of the second photo looks like it could be a de-compressor.. What's over the other side under that ribbed cover ? It may be that it works automatically, when the cam turns slowly it catches and does something that holds a rocker down(on the exhaust valve), but once the cam is spinning faster, or perhaps after it's done one full rotation, it releases a valve to restore compression. You should try moving it by hand and/or watch what it does when you turn the engine over slowly.

Sounds like bad ignition timing, or an air leak into the inlet manifold.

You have to go through using the + lead on one wire at a time from the top row of colours, and checking you get the right figure for each of the other wire colours in that column. Then you use the negative lead on one wire colour at a time from the column on the left, and check you get all the figures from each wire on that row. Blue/yellow and Green/Grey give different readings depending which way the leads are applied. There are diodes in there stopping the ohms test going one way. Blue/Yellow positive, Green /Grey negative gives 12.73 Mohms. Blue/Yellow Negative, Green/Grey positive gives infinity..