Mech

Do you think this looks like what you have ? output.pdf

I've read about jammed up interlocks and broken springs in them.. I think I'd disconnect the cables and try operating things by hand down on the engine.. I've been looking for a manual.. apparently those old ones(pre 87) are called YMF350ER, ERT, ERW, ERA or ERU ? Sound right Alley ? The YMF350F series models service manuals are easy to find, but not the ER series.. If anyone spots one..

Japanese manuals are really good. If you look at the bike and the manual together you will find the diagrams are really accurate and explain it all really well. In detail.. very specific. If it doesn't seem right, you might need another manual.. haha.

One of these might help.. output.pdf

Lol Parham.. very good.

When you are tracing the power through the switch and to the fuses and then the light switch Ej, try the voltage with the light switch on. It may be that there is a tiny trickle of power getting through a bad connection, and it's enough to make the gauge show 12 volts when the lights are off and not drawing power, but once the load comes on and uses all the tiny trickle, then the voltage will drop off to .. sometimes almost zero, sometimes only five or so volts.. not enough to make lights glow.

"The screws were out of the handle bar controls my youngest said they must have fallen out, I don’t think so.".. ha.. Check the threads alright.. The manual I looked in didn't mention left hand threads.. which I'm sure they would have, but as Gw says.. models vary a lot. If there is a bit of thread showing on the end of the shaft, look at the little bit of thread where it disappears under the nut, and work out which way will wind the nut off those threads.. the single thread will taper/slant off under the nut.

If it's not coming out the pipe at the back.. it should burn off.. unless it's getting new oil thrown on it from an axle.. or a head leak.. Either way I just ride it.. the more the better..

If you have a timing light you could connect it and see if the spark is regular, or missing a beat every now and then. A misfire will cause a dirt black plug, as will a flooding carb. If there are breather hoses on the carb, check they are clear and connected to the right place. If it has a vacuum operated fuel tap, or pump, check the vacuum hose for fuel. If you turn the fuel tap off, does it come right after a few seconds to a minute as he carb empties ?

View File Kazuma Falcon 150-250 Owner's Manual Kazuma Falcon 150-250 Owners manual Submitter Mech Submitted 06/07/2023 Category Kazuma ATV  

This might help.. output.pdf

Who.. very cool collection Gw.. The 305s were a classic.. and the rotary. .. Good work preserving them even if you never do get to restoring them. That allen key will be 6mm. 4,6,8,10 are what the japs use. At least it's got the big flange head to tap around huh..

Yeah it looks like there's a plug at the top that pushes into a rubber grommet, and tags down the front side and bottom that will pull out. Give it a firm pull at the top rear and it should unplug.. You know how the "trim clips" come out ? There's a lock pin in the center you either pull out, or push a little way in till they go loose but are still in the clip/plug(the right way), or, you push the pin all the way through and then search for it under the motor somewhere(the wrong way)..

Quadman, the cdi probably blew because when you disconnect the battery while it's running, and charging, the voltage goes up before the regulator has a chance to prevent it. There is a "spike" in the voltage that is too high and shorts through insulation or components. The voltage regulator is designed to be connected to a battery and always expects some small amount of current to be going into the battery. It struggles to chew up all the excess power when there's no battery connected. It's regulator adjusts too slow. Once the battery is off, and the regulator has adjusted, they often seem ok, but the voltage spike can take out any electronics, such as cdi, dashes, efi systems.

What Gw says.. Try pulling on the throttle cable where it goes into the carb at the side.. It should pull out about twenty mills if the butterfly is free, if it's seized then it won't move more than about two mills. If the butterfly is free, then it's the cable or in the hand-piece. Try pulling the cable out at the hand piece, if it pulls out about twenty mills then it's the hand piece seized. if it doesn't pull out there its a seized cable.

I think the key switch is not working properly. It has two power feeds in, both connected together of course, and then two individual live wires coming out when the key is on. I think one of the two isn't getting switched on. Most switches can be dismantled and cleaned. I'd check it with an ohm gauge before pulling it off though.. I may be wrong about the switch.. but it's what my wiring diagram suggests. If it's not the switch, then it's a broken wire from the key switch to the fuse box probably.

Good work. A bit of sheet aluminum might be better that gaffa tape to shim the handlebar. And for future reference Gw.. Brake calipers almost never leak from the piston seals. The pistons don't slide on the seals in operation. The seals jamb on the piston under pressure and flex to allow the piston to move the tiny distance they need to press the pad on, then it's their un-flexing that pulls the piston back a tiny amount. Even with rusty pistons they don't seem to leak more than enough to catch a bit of dust. And what sorts of old bikes do you work on ? I have lot's of manuals, paper and pdf, for old british stuff. Matchless, ajs, bsa triumph, norton.. Worked on all of them and some of the smaller british and euro stuff.

30.14 mm will be close to 1 3/16.. but it will be a metric size really.. 30mm

Might pay to check the valve clearances, and for vacuum leaks. If it has a rubber inlet manifold it might be split, or be missing a gasket or O ring. Other than that check the carb again. If it's sooting up the spark plug it's either too rich, or the plug is misfiring..If the idle is too rich i might be the jet is loose or missing(yes it happens), or the idle air jet near the air filter end is blocked.

View File Linhai ATV 300-D EFI T3B Owner's Manual Linhai ATV 300-D EFI T3B Owner's Manual Submitter Mech Submitted 06/02/2023 Category Other ATV  

View File 2009 Linhai 260-300 2004-5 ATV Service Manual 2009 ATV SERVICE MANUAL EUROPE 09.0 PN. F010102A01 ATV 260/300 Model ： 2004, 2005 Special Edition - Anniversary 2x4, 4x4 Mini 50/80/100/150 B-Type 150/200, 2x4 260/300, 2x4/ 4x4 ATV520 ATV400-2 ATV400-2B Submitter Mech Submitted 06/02/2023 Category Other ATV  

I've just added a service manual that should help. It'll appear in here shortly I think, otherwise it's in the "other ATV" section of the manuals. I think that's an auto choke. If the idle mixture won't adjust then it must have a dirty jet I think, or blocked drilling..