Mech

Hmmm. That little play makes me think it must be that first shaft. That little play would be between the bevel gears.. I'd guess.. If the bevel gears or bearings were seized then there would be no play, if it was the second shaft in seized then the big cross cut gears would have more play than that I think. And if it was the third shaft in seized, then there would be two lots of cross cut gears play, plus the bevel gear play and there would be lots of play.. and a bigger clunk. All guesses of course.. and your guess are as good as mine Gw.. haha. I'll look on interestedly.

Yeah I was thinking those nut sizes were a bit small from memory, but that's what the book had said.. but it was shaft diameters of course.. Once, when I was younger, I would have clicked to that straight away.. haha. I'd just spray electrical connectors with wd40 or an equivalent unless you think they are playing up. If they are actually not making contact then I'd clean them manually, scraping the crud off and pushing them together repeatedly till they made contact, then I'd smother the whole plug with vaseline..

That's good. If you got five gears earlier by turning the star washer then we will get them again using the shifter now it's working on three gears. The wheels or gearbox shaft or both need turning is all. If we just turn one shaft in the gearbox while trying to shift gears, it can happen that the dogs that are meant to engage just press together without engaging, but with enough drag because of the start washer and roller, that both gearbox shafts start turning and the dogs never move relative to one other and so we can't get it right into gear.. I think you should put the clutches etc back in there now and put the case on.. Then we should be able to drive it with the manual shift, and if we can, then we can try the electric shift. If you get it all back together, try shifting into first and testing that gear works, then come to a stop and try to get second, and try that for a bit, then come to a complete stop and try third.. and so on and on.. Only try shifting when the quad's stopped rolling, with the engine running, and only one gear at a time, with a bit of riding under power to check each one. That will test them with out any complications from anything but the shift mechanisms.

Haha.. Thank you.

This is for a 200.. output.pdf

Well as I've already explained the pulse/trigger coil has a high resistance, and all the various charging windings have low resistance readings. If you have an ohms gauge it's a few minutes work to figure which is the pulse/trigger winding. That plug with four wires is quite likely two wires for charging the CDI unit, and two wires that are the pulse/trigger windings. The trigger windings will have about sixty to two-hundred ohms resistance, and the charging windings will be low resistance, probably near or below one ohm. I'd guess that the three white wires go to the rectifier.regulator and they are for charging the battery.. Check the wire colours at the regulator to confirm that, and/or use an ohm gauge to check for continuity from one plug to the other.

Crikey mate.. take it easy. we get silly enough with age without falling on our heads.. Haha.. well I do anyway ! Here's a picture of the interlock. Part 8 is the assembled shaft with the spring and washers shown just above it already fitted to it. That spring is trying to rotate that shaft in an clockwise direction as you look at it from behind. You need to check there is some spring tension on that arm coming out of the back case. You should feel spring resistance if you try to rotate that shaft anti-clockwise, which is the direction the cable pulls it.

Just thought to mention.. seems obvious to me, and no doubt Gw, but I forgot to mention.. when you are doing all that gear shaft rotating, the other shaft in the gearbox has to be able to rotate as well.. which means you need the back wheels off the ground. If you are trying to get the gears to change with the wheels still on the ground then you have to rotate the gearbox shaft backwards and forwards and rock the bike back and forwards so both shafts are moving relative to one other..

"easy" has nothing to do with it Blasiri.. I'm here to help people that want to help themselves.. You aren't trying..

I'd try it running, check all the gears can change.. without the drive shaft on.... Since the drive shaft flange is locked up solid, the drive shaft isn't going to do anything anyway.. If you can find a false neutral in the hi/lo you could run the five speeds and have a good listen.. I'd take the side cover off eventually just to check what the novices had been doing in there, but I'd do as much diagnosis and checking of things conditions before then as much as possible....

It's the gearbox shaft that the plate clutch goes on, that needs constant rotating while you are trying to get a gear to change.. Or you can do as Gw suggests and jack the rear end and turn the wheels.. same effect. I'm not really sure what you should expect when you move the reverse interlock arm(the one with the cable attached), but it should turn and it should prevent you getting into reverse.. As long as it seems to be moving, and doing something, then I think we can assume that part is ok. Then reattach that gear shift mechanism to the front of shaft 17, and, remembering not to let the shaft move forwards, try changing gears..while rotating the gearbox shafts lots.

Did you look at those diagrams ? Any that had your colours ? Did you try measuring the resistance of the windings ? If you measure the resistance I could make an educated guess about which is which, and tell you how to confirm/test them. Which do you mean by "hot wire" ? There are battery charging windings, CDI charging windings, and there are CDI trigger windings..

Oh ok. I've never seen sand get into a cylinder after a dip. Never seen one start smoking either. I was thinking that perhaps they were bluffing and it really had a bent rod.. haha.. Suspicious mechanic.. I always cross check what my customers tell me..

Running bikes through water doesn't generally cause them to start smoking. Even drowning them in fresh water doesn't make them smoke. It sometimes bends the con-rod though.. I'd be a bit cautious about spending money on it till I'd checked the con-rod and bottom end felt ok. Are the piston and barrel missing ? I'd try fitting new rings and two gaskets and get it running if the parts are there.. then test the whole quad before overhauling the engine... if in fact it needed overhauling.

Ha. Nah. I'm here to help, not do it for you.

Do you know the exact model ? One of these wiring diagrams might help. Perhaps if you tell us what colours you have it might help too. Someone may have one and be able to tell you straight off. Other than that.. what do you mean by "hot wire" ? It will have a trigger coil, and we can usually tell which one that is by it's high(relatively) resistance, and it may have cdi charging coils, or just battery charging coils. Both of those two charging windings have low resistance, about a half an ohm, give or take a half ohm depending on make and model. Trigger coils have resistance readings of between about sixty ohms, and two-hundred ohms, depending on make and model. output.pdf

And, getting the gears to change fully, with the roller going right to the bottom of it's valleys on the star wheel, requires constant rotation of the gear shaft.. That's where people go wrong when working on gearboxes. They put them together, have a quick try at changing gears but have no success, and assume it's just dry and will be ok once the engine is running.. Which is sometimes the case..haha.. and sometimes not. Often not. Gearboxes have to move from gear to gear under the influence of that roller, and that takes constant rotation of the gear shafts, lots of rotations for every shift. They are designed to take a lot of rotations for each change so the drive dogs that engage don't crash together. They are designed so that the dog is just gradually gaining as they turn, on the gear it wants to engage with. Eventually, after a lot of turns, the dog and the gear align and the roller on the star moves the gears fully into mesh. Then, and only then, you can try for another shift..

Ok.. That "sub-gear" shaft.. That's shaft 17 is it ? That shaft, 17, probably doesn't move much, perhaps only about.. err.. A 1/16 or 1/8 of a turn, It doesn't need to move much to change the gears. I think what you need do now is to have a play around with the reverse interlock lever, which is on the back cover and has a cable going to it. Disconnect the cable and have a fiddle with that and the shift levers. See if that reverse interlock seems to allow and prevent their free movement. If it is doing something, then I think we put the shift mechanism back on the front of shaft 17 and try changing gears while turning the gearbox shafts..

Sounds right. It occurred to me that you could test the five speed with the engine running. You should be able to test the hi/lo as well I think. It might be a bit tight to shift if the gears are wound up against the seized shaft, but they should slide free. If you can move the hi/lo then it really points to the last short output shaft, which would presumably have to be a seized bearing. If the hi/lo doesn't shift them it could still be jammed in two gears there... though I don't see how that could be given one sliding dog engages either but not both at the same time. One of those two gears though does work in reverse, and if the shift lug had broken off the shift fork it could leave it in reverse.. See shift fork 4 has an extra lug.. I think that's a part of the interlock/shift for reverse..

A lot of bikes have a restrictor in the oilway going to the head, They can get a blockage at that restriction. The restrictor is generally down in a side case or main case in an oil gallery. You should refer to the manual's oil circuit diagram and check it I reckon.

That doesn't really inspire much confidence in American Honda power equipment then.. haha.

If you're saying that tractors these days have fancy and complicated oils, then I agree.. Out of all the machinery I've worked on, tractors have the most particular and demanding oil requirements.

The safest thing to do, and what I'm sure the manual will recommend, is to use a gauge to check what the oil pressure is. You need to check the pressure at a cold start at idle and with a few revs on, and then again when it's warmed up at idle and with a few revs on. There will be four figures you get.

Name a hose....

That's a good description thanks Ej. It sounds like the two shaft/arms are now engaged. If you can turn the 17 clockwise and anti-clockwise by using the shift lever now, then that part is working, and free. Don't swing the manual lever too far though or it may disengage itself again.. It sounds like you have all the gears as well now, so we just need to get the shift shafts operating that star washer thingy.. So you've figured that the shaft 17 disengages if it moves forwards, so it depends on the front cover to prevent that happening when it's all together. In the mean time you'll have to watch it doesn't come out of mesh as you put the change mechanism 11 back on. Once that's on you can try changing the gears with the manual shift lever while rotating that gearbox shaft a lot.. rotating it continually till each gear slips into mesh under the influence of that roller on the start washer. Hopefully that will work now !