Mech

The lights are led, and the rest of the display is LCD.. Are the lights dim as well, or just the gauges etc ? Lcd needs a good power supply.. You could check the power supply and earths. It's also possible the dash is meant to dim if the lights are on.. I'm not sure about that, but it's a possibility. The owners manual might mention it. The service manual I looked in didn't mention it. You might try turning the lights on to see if it makes a difference.. It shouldn't, because they are already dim.. haha.. but we never know what might reveal itself. Turning the lights on will turn on the dash lighting and put more load on the earth and/or earth.. I think..

Yeah that's the same picture I'm looking at.. The gear should just slide off with your fingers. I'm guessing, since you say it (gear 4), turns on it's shaft, that it must be damaged in behind there, perhaps the shaft is made with a tiny groove where the smooth shaft meets the splines, and perhaps the end thrust and rotation, has turned the edge of the gear very slightly so they catch in that groove. If that's the case, and you have the other gear out of the way so you can turn that 4 gear, I'd expect that if you rotate it it will feel free, till you start pulling and turning, at which point you will feel the burr start to grab or drag and things will get tight.. This is all assuming they did run the engine with that case on there.. Or perhaps just their pounding it with a hammer has turned a burr in there.. The case was probably going on crookedly, as it came off, causing things to jamb up.. They must have been tightening the screws and hammering mighty hard to pull the cover over the dogs on that gear,, they will be close to eight mills(3/8) high won't they ?

Yeah that gear just free-wheels around till it's engaged by that sliding dog next to it. It should slide off.. Perhaps see if it turns on the shaft first. That double gear on a hub next to it should pull off too as far as I can tell looking at the book. The shafts they're on(both shafts and both gears sets) are gearbox shafts and turns. The shaft turning while the gear is jammed up against the case like that might have damaged it in where we can't see yet. It wasn't designed to have thrust loads. It has a couple of end float washers, one on each side of that gear supposedly. Try to turn it and work it off.. probably a burr on the inner side of the gear I would guess.

Ah no.. I see now. That outer gear that was backwards was jammed up against the cover, and couldn't turn, and so nor could the gear below it.. So now you need to figure out why they took it apart to start with.. I bet it wasn't because of a seized driveshaft.. that's the result of their looking for some other problem.

Yeah nice and clean. See the smaller bearing has pulled out of the case a bit. That outer gear is on backwards though ! That would be why the case didn't go back on right ? And the magnets can't have been locking up the engine, or if they did lock up the crank, the centrifugal clutch should have let the gearbox turn in one direction at least.. If you pull the selector fork and those gears off there now, the bottom shaft should be able to turn with the drive shaft.

The seized up bearing is welded to a shaft.. ?

This is for an atv, but it might give you some ideas.. If this diagram seems similar to yours then I'd check the emergency flasher switch and the indicator switch works(with an ohm gauge), and that power was getting to the emergency lamp flasher. Then I'd suspect the flasher unit.. It's unlikely that both swiches have failed together, or that all the various bulbs have blown together, so it really looks like a lack of power supply to the flasher, or a failed flasher. output.pdf

Can you post a picture of the wiring diagram Dale ? It may help.

Good run down there Pastor. Sounds like you've checked everything.. Kicking back against your hand when you are using the pull start really points to bad ignition timing. Other things that can cause a spit out the carb, such as a tight valve or a lean mixture, doesn't cause that kick-back. It could be the new stator isn't the right one for the cdi unit.. or the cdi unit has a problem. Can you try another cdi unit ? Borrow one perhaps.. Do you have a buddy that will let you fit your cdi to their bike ?

Bd.. do you have a multi-meter ? If not you should get one from somewhere, they can be had for a very few bucks, and figure out how to check resistances with it. Then you just try two wires at a time seeing if they are connected, and if they are, what ohms reading the gauge says. Some two wires will be about one ohm, and the other two wires will be from sixty to two-hundred ohms. The one ohm set are to charge the cdi, and the other set of wires with the high reading are the trigger wires. Then the other thing you have to figure out is which way around the two charge wires need to be when they connect to the cdi unit, and which way around the two trigger wires need to be around when they connect to the cdi unit. I'm assuming you already know which pin on the cdi unit is for which purpose. The way we figure which way around the wires need to be is that we connect the set of charge wires and the set of trigger wires and check if there is a spark with a known good coil and spark-plug, then, if there is no spark we swap one set of wires, the trigger wires, and we try again for spark, then if there is still no spark we swap the other set of wires(charge wires) around and try for a spark, and then if there is still no spark, swap the trigger wires around again. That way we've had both sets of wires tried both ways, on each of the other set of wire's possible ways.. we've tried every option. If that doesn't get a spark, then we check all the wiring has no breaks or shorts to the frame, that the switches all work, and that there is some power coming out of those plugs down on the engine.

Ha yeah I've heard that one Ej. Glad you're feeling better.

Good plan.. That keeps the oil in too.

Sorry about that. I was hopeing too. The only other thing is.. one of those hi/lo gears is also used in combination with a gear in the five speed to reverse the direction of the final drive when it wants reverse. It would be nice to check reverse works, or tries to work.. That's a bit hard though without the side case off so you can turn the plate clutch.. So.. It's a bit of a toss up which side case you take off first.. I think I'd take the left side off and check the hi/lo and reverse, and check that short shaft with the bevel gear on it from there. If you took the hi/lo gears off from in there, then you could turn the rest of the five speed by hand using the ends of the gearbox shafts, and try turning that short bevel gear shaft.. And if it has to come out.. I'd slide a piece of ply or wood under the engine and slide it out... I'm old too.

Yeah, how's the head.. I hope that's not the cause of the mares !!

Good one.. Have fun.. but don't get caught !

Well you know how gear changes are when the engine's not running and we can't rock the bike.. That's all just normal really. Since you couldn't get the drive shaft to turn, even as the hi/lo must have passed through it's neutral point, then the seizure must be either the drive shaft or the short shaft with a bevel gear on it, that's seized, and, by the look of that little bit of movement you can get out of the driveshaft, and the click/clunk, which makes it seem like the drive shaft is moving freely, it looks like it must be the short shaft. I'd take the side case off and check things as I went but it looks like you'll be working towards a total strip down..

Ha.. might be slang in some parts.. Sorry to hear the day's not going good for you.. The good news is that you are making progress with the quad. That you get all five gears is good. All that carry on getting each gear, making sure the roller is moving right to position on the star washer, is normal. It's how it's meant to work, except when it's running the shafts are turning at a few hundred revs. If we try to get the gears to mesh faster, they crash together. Yes I think you should put the front cover on. I wouldn't be bothering about changing the clutches. They all have measurements you can take if you are worried about how worn they are.

Ok.

"as I go up in gear the play gets a little less prominent,but never goes away".. That's a weird thing.. My first thoughts there are that it's something way back before the five speeds, like the centrifugal clutch is locked up.. But then it would come free in neutral.. If it was that shaft the bevel gear is on that was seized, then I don't see why changing the five speeds would make a difference.. If you can find a neutral in hi/lo and the bevel gear shaft still won't turn then it has to be the shaft's bearings, or that retainer screw I see in the picture.. Looks like it holds the bearing in.

But still the shaft won't turn.. Not even in the 5 speed's neutral.. Try to find a false neutral in the hi/lo, there will be one, all gears have a neutral between them. It should be easy to find with the non-ratcheting hand shift.. See if it will turn then..

If the rod moves sideways more than about three mm it's a sign of wear, if it has six mm play it's bad. The wear on the crank pin happens when the crank is about twenty or thirty degrees after top dead center. That's the place to check for wear or roughness. Feel for end play of the rod till you find that loosest place, the difference will only be minute though so you have to feel for it very carefully. The best way is to rest a thumb or finger on the crank web as you use the same hand to pull and push the rod. Your finger, bridging between the rod and the crank, will detect very small movements. Once you have found what seems like a looser place, compare it to other places around the crank pin, and feel for roughness when you press the rod down hard and roll it over that most worn bit. If you can feel end float, or roughness, it's worn.

Yup the cable is meant to turn. It turns a screw that holds the throttle open a little. If it's not altering the idle speed then it's broken or the screw on the other end of the cable is stripped or seized..

Have you tried for all five gears again since that first try when you got three gears ? I think I'd do that before putting the clutches back on. You really need to know the manual shift is working and can get all the gears before you put that front cover on. Now that you've got three gears you should be able to get all five. Something I forgot to mention is that when the plate clutch isn't on, it's possible that shaft can move back a little, and that may be enough to cause difficult or no shifts. It should be kept pulled forwards as you turn it. I think if you do that and turn it enough you will get all five gears. It would be really good to confirm that before we proceed.. We have to be methodical here, checking one bit at a time so we know absolutely that part of the operation is right so that if when we get the cover back on it won't shift, we know it's something to do with or in the front cover.

Even with the right diagram it won't tell you which pair of wires are for cdi charge and which are for trigger.. It tells you in the component testing section, but not the wiring diagram. The easiest way to sort them is by using an ohms gauge.. Once you have the two windings identified, then you need to figure by trial and error which way around they go at the cdi. I don't mean which two pins are for trigger, but which pin is on the positive and which is on the negative wire. The trigger windings nearly always only trigger if they are the right way around(and on the right terminals), and the charge windings in some bikes are fussy about which way around they are..

You know how to check the condition of the big end bearing.. By wobbling the rod sideways and feeling for play, and pushing it up and down feeling for play at the point where the wear on the crank pin happens, and rotating it on the crank pin feeling for roughness ?