Mech

But.. it does have 6x6.. My internet is crap so it might take a few tries to get it there, but it should show up on the home page once it's been approved.

Ok.. I've got one coming but unfortunately it is only for 2x4 They had all the options listed but they all turn out to be 2x4.. Hopefully it will help.

Stress.. A good massage does wonders. I have a lady friend that is just absolutely amazing.. She sees me sitting talking and absently mindedly rubbing my shoulder and says she will have a look at it, then just puts one finger on the spot and gets huge popping noises and instant relief.. just from one touch of a finger.

My internet is too crap to make out the noises.. You could put a screwdriver handle to your ear and use it as a stethoscope to locate the noise. And you should download a service manual, it will answer a lot of your questions..

There are lots out there and I can download one and send it to quadcrazy.. That supports the site. You could do a search though and download one yourself.

I think I can get one but is it a 4x4 or 6x6.. or do you have any other model designations for it ? Or 2x4.. there are lots of variations I see.

Yup. At the moment it is certainly sounding like a break in the wire or winding though.. And if I'm right about what the resistances are meant to be, then a 500ohm winding is certainly not going to be the cure.

That's the thing about dementia.. we don't know.. haha.. It's other people's problem to deal with us. As long as the sore neck doesn't turn you into a grumpy old man you'll be right.

Yeah I looked too Gw and found the same owners manual.. no diagram. As for it being an odd one for the year, I'd suspect it's because it's for some other market. Some countries enter into trade deals where they get to contribute some local content to the build. It's quite often electrical or electronic components. Apart from a trade deal, some markets just get different spec bikes than america gets.. Here in NZ we get machines spec'd for america, asia, japan, australia, europe, GB, africa... oh.. and New Zealand. If we identify the specs and systems the bike is using though, then we can identify parts and tests to fix them..

Hang in there Ej.. Hopefully it will only be the nut stripped. You did have a washer in there behind the nut I hope.. You might try levering right at the back of the centrifugal clutch trying to lever the whole thing forwards while trying to get the nut to bite and wind off. Just watch out for any possible bending inside there, which you'll feel as a bit of flex from the lever. If the lever comes up feeling solid though then everything will be up on solid metal and you should be ok to apply a bit of pressure. Hopefully that will get it off, and the doc will fix the neck.. Good luck with it all. P.S. I'm 67.5 and yeah. everything gets harder ! Thread files are good, but I'm picking that they are flat nuts and that the shaft threads should be plenty strong enough to survive their stripping.. The japs are good like that. It might also be possible to drill into the nut and then split one or both sides away from the shaft.

Yeah ok thatoneguy, that continuity checker will do the job. It sounds like you know what you are doing... which isn't always the case in here. So, if you go back to one of my early posts you will see I asked some questions about the key switch, the and how the starter circuit is connected to the cdi unit.. If you answer those questions either Gw or I will be able to find you a diagram that will work, and have the correct specs. So far though, it does sound like the coil is open circuit. You should use two pins a little way down the wires from the plug and check the wires are't just broken near the terminals.. No point pulling the cover if it's not needed.

And see the drawing of the plastic plugs next to that wiring diagram you posted Gw.. those plugs aren't four pin plugs like we are dealing with here. The manual doesn't reflect the reality of what we are working with..

This is what it says in post six... "Right now, from the side of the engine, there are 7 wires. 3 white wires go to the rectifier. The other 4 (red, green, white/red line and white/green line) go into a single plug that then go somewhere into the bigger harness all taped together.".

Nope.. post six says it has three white to the rectifier, and four to the cdi.. All my manuals, and experience, tell me that should have two wires with very low resistance, and two wires with higher resistance.

Yeah that's what I found, right specs, for a different stator than the one we are working on ! Or are you saying this bike is a six wire stator ? Haha.. I'm getting confused here..

You'll have a spare stator to flog off for more than the case costs !

Nra, I looked that manual up and those figures are for a stator with six wires coming out of it, this stator only has four wires for the cdi. Could you have a look at the wiring diagram in the manual you have and confirm it has four wires for us. And OP, you could also use two pins and poke them into the dud wires just a little way down the wires to check it's not a break right near the terminals, or dirty connections where the wires crimp into the pins. I checked the accuracy of my middle of the price range multimeter, and the specs say it's accurate within .7%.. Which means a figure of only .018 might not register. We should always try and confirm any conclusions we come to when diagnosing, with another system of checks or tests.

A blocked float bowl breather can cause vacuum in the float bowl and then you get the same symptoms. The first place to check, after you've checked the breathers, is the float needle. Some needle seats have a tiny filter above them, but they can just get blocked above the seat without a filter being there. Apart from a blockage the float might be set too high, or the needle might be sticking up. Some floats have a small spring that engages with the needle to make sure it comes down with the float. You should check the diaphragm on the slide, and that the needle is secured and set to the right position. You can do that before pulling the carb off.

My grown sons tell me that nobody buys off ebay any more , everyone uses facebook now... Apparently there are for sale sites for different areas of the world and country.. I don't use either but they sure do..

OP.. before you condemn that stator you should try this.. Disconnect the battery's negative lead. Disconnect the stator plug. Run a wire from the negative battery terminal to the white/green wires and then use your volt gauge from the battery's positive to the white/red wire and see if it shows voltage.. If it shows voltage then there is continuity and the windings are probably ok.

If it wasn't tight to get off, it shouldn't be tight to get back on...

Oh that's cheap enough. A few rubber bits and it will be like new I bet. About the only real problem they have is if the idle mixture screw is seized, and even those can be got out..

I wouldn't pull it down with the bolts.. It should go on with a bash with your fist.. No more. If it seems solid, it may be not lined up, the shaft may be dangling down a little ? You might have to lower the case a little to get it lined up, then once the shafts started line up the dowels. If it feels like it's starting, but tight, check the shaft, polish it with a bit of wet-n-dry. Oil it and the bearing.

Jpz.. All you need to do is pull the fuel pipe off the carb and check it flows plenty of fuel.. If it does, then you have a problem inside the carb.

Drying out that quick makes me think it's getting wet on the spark-plug or coil, and the engine heat is drying it out. Water getting into the connector down by the engine is also a cause, but then it normally takes a half hour or more to dry. I'd use the garden hose to wet one part at a time till it conks..