Mech

It would be a good idea to look in a service manual and find what exact make and model and the manufacturers designation of the carb is, and then look for that.

Look up flat belt drives and see what they used to use as belt dressing to aid the grip.. Treacle works at speed. On my old lathe I use body sealer.. haha. It works good.

Rattle guns do damage even undoing. It's the speed. If metal under pressure are rubbed together it causes galling, and the greater the pressure or speed the worse the risk of it happening. The rattle gun moves the nut fast, but in millisecond bursts. If you undo things with a long bar you put the pressure on and over the course of a fraction of a second you see the socket start to creep, then accelerate a little, and then after a quarter of a turn it winds off a bit so there is no load. You will be able to imagine what the effect would be if you used a bar and just wrenched it hard and fast, it would try and rip up a bit of metal if the threads were dry.. The rattle gun does that same effect in tiny increments.. it wrenches the nut around in tiny fast steps and tries to cause galling. It happens.. damage happens.. Keep the rattle gun for extremely tight things you can't move with a bar is my advice. You'll devise something to hold the flywheel. If it's not too tight use a bit of webbing wrapped around the outside and around a lever in such a way that as the load comes on the bar levers the webbing tighter and tighter. Clean the webbing and flywheel so there is grip, even put something sticky on both to help it.

Given the circumstances, being it started after the swap, we'd have to suspect the rings, but, with those running circumstances you just described(high revs and throttling off) it could be the valve seals, and, sometimes, valve guides come loose in the head and let oil leak down around them. If it's smoking and not getting a fouled plug it will be an exhaust valve, but the usual thing is the inlet which actually sucks the oil down. Either way it sounds like another strip down.. Check the engine breather, confirm the oil level and viscosity. Try going through a process we use to bed rings in, which is to accelerate from a speed/revs low enough to load the motor up, and do it giving it about half throttle, when the revs build so it's spinning freely but not revving any more than about where you might change up in a normal sort of ride, throttle off hard and let it run down to the initial revs again before repeating the process. Do it in one of the higher gear so you get some load on the engine and keep doing it for about at least two minutes.. You'll need a good place to do this. That beds rings in and is what we do in the very first run after an engine overhaul. It's also important not to let new or unsealed rings sit idling.. It can let them start sliding on a layer of oil and never bed.

Mate.. Impact drivers are hard on threads, even undoing them.. Only use them if you really have to..

I have several diagrams.. Have a look at how many wires are coming out the back of the switch, and their colours. If it has five, two are for turning the power on to the accessories, two are for shorting the ignition.. The ignition kill pair might not be switching, or they have a break in one of them. I think that your switch might be like this one. The wire colours may be different. output.pdf

My guess would be that the key switch has two parallel circuits in it and one switches the battery ignition and the other switches the accessories. We could confirm that with a wiring diagram, if we knew the year and found a service manual, or, you could disconnect the switch at it's plug and test each circuit with a multimeter.. or test light.

Ha.. Amazing huh. Sad thing is, I've known mechanics no better.. When I was getting trained I was told that we can adjust a bill with the stroke of a pen, but we can't adjust a bad reputation, and so take my time, make sure everything is right, and if there's ever any doubt about the assembly as it's going on, back track before it gets worse. I've seen mecahnics know things weren't right and be saying, "it's probably come right when it's all together.. Haha yeah right. Good work Gw.. check everything, double check it, then triple check it before proceeding. That's what we were told.

Have you looked in the service manual section in here Swole ? And if you want the right manual for your bike you are going to need the year..

I agree with Gw.. that or you damaged a ring getting it back together. It could be a valve guide seal too, but if it smokes badly when it does it, it's probably a ring.. the test will confirm it.

I'm a lazy guy so I'd do the resistance checks and if the new one is to spec I'd stick it on.. The cleaner does do a nice job..

I think you'll be lucky there.. American manufacturers are notorious for their protectionist policies. The japs realized about thirty years ago that it stifled sales if you couldn't get your car serviced in small towns without a dealer, and so started making their manuals freely availiable. Ha.. I see you can get the info you want for $448.00 What a joke. Manuals are worth a tenth of that.

I'd suspect the rings. There's a technique to prove it but it takes a bit of practice and experimenting with an engine to get it to show itself. The exact revs and throttle varies and has to be found by trying different throttle opening, opening speed, revs. and the speed you close the throttle. It doesn't need a lot of revs. Warm it up and then start gently revving it up and letting it go back to idle. Only give it about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle and open it sort of gently, don't snap it open. When you let it off close it right off by hand, don't just drop the throttle but back it off like you were riding. Keep doing that, revving it and then letting it off. Don't hold it at revs and don't let it stay idling, just continually be gently opening and closing the throttle. After a few revs it might start smoking, if it does then try slightly more or less throttle and revs to try and get it to smoke worse.. If the rings are good it won't smoke at all, but if the rings are worn or soft it will start pouring smoke out the back. I can get a motor that uses a little oil between oil changes, or smokes a puff occasionally, to fill a yard with smoke by doing that. It doesn't do any damage, just shows up bad rings.

For a lt160... And yeah, I thought it strange to have to drain the oil.. I'd just jack it up on that side so the oil runs to the other side.

Readjust the clutch. Are you trying for neutral and the gears with the engine running, or off ?

If it runs ok when the bowl is full then you need to figure why the bowl isn't staying full.. When the tank is full the fuel will/should flow out the carbs fuel hose if you pull it off.. You should check that happens first. If there is fuel getting to the carb then use the drain bung to check it's flowing through the float needle and into the carb fast enough. If there was no fuel to the carb then check for restrictions somewhere, or vacuum in the tank. That new pump might restrict the fuel when it's not getting vacuum. The tank vent could be blocked. To test the fuel pump you lay the fuel hose to the carb into a bottle. Lay it on it's side with the hose laying flat. If the hose is dangling down you won't see the fuel pumping out properly. Then suck hard two or three times on the vacuum hose going to the pump, and then let the vacuum off suddenly. You should see a single slug of fuel come out of the fuel hose. The slug should be full diameter of the hose and about ten mills long. If that works then your pump is ok and will work if it's getting good pulsating vacuuum. To test the vacuum you reattach the vacuum hose and start the motor and let it idle. It should pump fuel out of the fuel hose into the bottle at full diameter of the hose and slugs about eight mills long. If that works then the pump is working and it should start and idle at east. Then you need to check the vacuum is still strong enough when the motor is under load. To check that you leave it all as is but sit on the bike, put the brakes on hard, engage first gear and open the throttle until the motor starts straining against the centrifugal clutch. As the motor starts to labour the pump will likely slow down it's delivery of fuel, but it should keep pumping some. If it stops pumping then you have weak vacuum or a malfunctioning pump. The vacuum has to be strong, and pulsating when it gets to the pump. If the vacuum hose has been swapped with some soft thin walled stuff the pulsations can get lost as they suck the vacuum hose flat and then let it out again. Low vacuum can be caused by low compression, tight valves, or air leaks. Low vacuum at high revs can be caused by a blocked exhaust. Oops. That was for someone else so the first few lines are not too relevant.

Good work on the family activity.. Nice to see.

Up the top there's a "more" button, click that, choose service manuals, then down a bit on the right choose your make and start browsing.. Or, go to the post on this page and follow that link. On the home page.. not this page sorry.

View File Polaris Magnum 96/97/98 2x4, 4x4, 6x6 Service Manual Polaris Magnum 96/97 2x4, 4x4, 6x6 Service Manual Submitter Mech Submitted 07/10/2023 Category Polaris ATV  

$88.00 is too cheap ! I'd be suspicious at that price... even for my own personal use. It could be a cheap way to get some parts though. I might for instance inspect each part and decide some were usable with the old cylinder, or that the cylinder looked passable but the piston or pin were rubbish.

Ok. Thanks.. So that's quite dear. It's about the same price over here but our bucks worth less.. sort of.

No trouble.. The site needed it..

So just by way of comparison, since I'm in NZ, what's a rebore cost over there ?

Ok.. It's there and just needs approval.