Mech

Here ya go.. output.pdf

On most bikes that pull start pulley fits onto a tiny spline.. I think I'd pull that part off and check the end of the crank before I chased up a part, and I'd check the starter gears too. Some of those cheap bikes are so badly made they break kick start shafts, and gearbox shafts, and just about any part that we would normally expect to last the bike out.. Once you had that part off, you could go to a bike wreckers if there is one around and ask if they recognise it.. Might be a copy of something.

I'd try to find the maker, which may be mentioned on a model tag on the frame somewhere, then do a search for info.. It may use some common chinese engine, possibly a copy of a jap engine. Can't find a parts picture or complete list. If you can find a vin or model id plate, take a photo and post it up..

Ha.. promotional give away with a new tractor ? There are listings in UK...

Oh yeah, I thought suzuki made engines and other companies used them, but not the other way around.. Interesting.

Oh yeah, the 300 has a mikuni and the 400 the keihin..

Yeah it's a bit hard to tell for sure but they all do that, and two strokes do it heaps.. with or without the piston backwards. I had been under the impression he was saying it backfired into the carb, which it well could do under load..

First question is.. is the dash flashing it's gear position indicator ?

This would be called a rancher would it ? And the trans is called hondamatic ? Sound familiar ? There are several variations of what can be described as auto.. some are just auto shifting manual boxes. Oh I see the AT.. I got the model..

I presume you mean a TRX.. You really need to get a service manual and have a read through the diagnostic section about the trans... I'll get a book and have a read but it's going to be pretty impossible for me to talk you all the way through if you haven't familiarized yourself with the bikes layout and what's involved, and not much point if you don't feel up to doing the checks..

Hi there Dave. How are things with you ? Good summer ? Heatwave didn't knock you out ?

In a big bear those colours go to the cdi, so I'd assume it was firing a hell of an advanced.. Good work spotting it.

Ok so I downloaded that vid and that blow-back doesn't look bad to me. Once the airbox is connected that fuel will go towards running the engine. I'd be testing it under load too. Just revving it on the spot like that isn't a very good indication of things. I'd like to know, does it backfire into the airbox when it's under load and as the throttle's being opened, and how much throttle does it get to before it starts bogging down, and is that on a flat road and which gear etc.. How much throttle, how much load, and whether it is actually firing back into the airbox are all important indicators.

Is that in #126 Gw ? I'll have to download it.. Is it backfiring or just spitting fuel.. They all spit a little, and a blocked exhaust could make that worse.. I'm flying blind here though.. bad internet.

Yeah the manual says the bigger diameter/narrow faced one goes on last.. And it will be to fit over the spring huh ?

The plate with the bigger inner center diameter will be to go over the hub center which will have a flange on it, probably on it's inner end I'd think.. Or it might be the pressure plate on the outside that has a flange.. It's fairly common. Look for where it needs the bigger inner diameter. And don't tighten the nut at all tight, just 3/8 ratchet tight(25ftlb) till you have tested it all works right..

And if the second hand carb is being sold because it has a problem, or isn't set up for your particular four wheeled bike or market ? More bad advice Randy..

Too funny.. 97.. please don't buy an aftermarket carb, they always need resetting up, and it's generally more work than fixing the original.. Gw will back me up on this I'm sure. That carb, on the slide needle, it's held in by a plastic thing with an O ring right ? Well that's an original carb I'm pretty sure and all the jets and the needle and all will be right for the bike. On the needle there are two plastic washers, and one goes above and one below the clip. The trick is though that on some I've seen both plastic spacers are the same thickness, and on others they have been different. I think the thick one is meant to be under the clip, and it might have been swapped, and then the needle clip moved, or the clip has just been moved anyway.. for whatever reason the needle needs raising now. If one clip makes a difference you could tr.y a second move in case the washers are wrong.. It might be needed. The reasoning.. because Randy is sure to challenge it..haha like I care, but it's good for people that are interested to know. You say it's backfiring into/through the carb right ? Not just puffing air back out, but backfiring.. Well backfiring is because the incoming mixture is getting ignited. There are a few possible reasons for that.. It can ignite becaue the valve timing is out, and then they don't idle so good, and they are down or torque when you drive them. I know you haven't driven it much but I think you'd have noticed the other symptoms. Or, the incoming mixture is ignited by carbon build up, or a real hot spark-plug tip, both of which needs the engine to run for a while till it's good and hot. Or, the incoming fuel gets ignited by unburnt gases caused by real late ignition timing, which is super rare these days. That also makes them gutless. Or because the mixture is still in there burning because it was so lean on the last firing. That is the most common cause by far. There is another cause of burning still going on in there when the new charge arrives and that's raw fuel deposited on the cool head surface and smoldering away, but that doesn't get caused by a rich mixture alone, if the mixture was that rich it would be spewing black smoke, but it can be caused by badly atomised fuel getting in there in big globs. That's why I suspected the vacuum hoses, it's a rich condition and the air-box thing would fit that. Of those likely causes the lean mixture is the most likely, and the easy one to change.

In the olden days, when cars had carbs, then I used to buy kits, but jap bike carbs are so damn good they just always seem to come right with a clean and adjust. Wear in the slides more likely to be the death of them than anything else I find.

97.. I think what you need to do here is raise the slide needle. It's nearly always a lean mixture that causes this, and that's the easiest thing to try at this stage. There are other things, but most of them I think are very long shots. Raise the needle or lower the clip and try it.. I'll explain what the other things are, and why this, despite the seeming contradiction about the air-box lid effect, is the most probably cause tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure that is going to be the cure. Do whatever you want Randy... you don't need my permission. Post #12.. The standard setting for needle clips is always the middle one.. Set it there.. It should improve it at least.

Yawn.. (wanders off whistling)

I've never used an overhaul kit in my life Gw.. I've bought diaphragms and O rings but that's it. Oh and a couple of float needles..

Yeah well that's a point...

Do they say to set them to 1/8 of an inch ? You argue against yourself Randy.. There's no logic to it.. ever.

Yeah good Randy, people can see how it is for themselves..