Mech

I use engine oil of air filters. The wiring, check the battery has voltage, then check both the small wires and the cable from the battery are making good connection to the negative battery terminal and frame/engine and that the small wires from the battery going to the fuse and switch have a good connection and that power is getting to the fuse then the ignition switch. Pretty sure they will be red all the way. It needs testing/tracing with a test light really. If there is no battery voltage then unplug the regulator and try recharging the battery. The regulator can discharge the battery. The red wire that goes to the fuse and switch also goes straight to the regulator without going through the fuse or switch.. You could check for direct voltage to there with or without the key on.. At least, that's what I think it will be wired.. that's pretty standard for the lt300f etc

It used to be possible to buy yokes to weld onto hollow tube driveshafts, and for fitting to prop shafts. Tractor places used to have them or get them for me. There are people that make up driveshafts. If it's a hollow tube type they just lathe a length of pipe to size, knock the right sized yoke in by about 20mm until it comes up against a shoulder on the yoke, then weld it carefully so it doesn't get out of place. I've done it in my workshop. Yours will have a sliding join I suppose so it will have to get the shaft cut off carefully, which can be done with a hacksaw as long as you don't damage the squareness of the old tube end. That's not hard though, yo,u just barely cut deep enough to cut the weld, and back by a mill or two perhaps then break the old yoke out. There'll be a square tube end, with a bit of weld on it, you grind off the weld and then push the new yoke in, aligning it with the yoke on the other end(very important), weld it carefully and it's good as new. If it's lined up, which the shoulder on the yoke and the square end of the tube does, then they are balanced well enough for your use.. Tractor place or a marine place might be able to get you a yoke, or an engineering shop, or a driveshaft and transmission sort of place..

Did you get the jet sizes at the last strip-down 97 ? If you have the jet sizes you can check if they are correct for the setup in the online parts places. The airbox lid thing.. I told you, they are very sensitive to the airbox and filter.. Most cv carbys are. They need it all good and an oiled air filter..

Is the dash gear indicator flashing at you ? Have you tried getting the dash to flash the trouble codes to you ? There's a procedure described in the manual. That's what you need to do now. The process is check the dash for codes, and if it isn't flashing at you, you ask it for the codes.. that checks the computer is working. Then or before really, you check all the fuses and battery voltage running and check the shift buttons do something, which you've already done. Once you know whether the computer is working, or trying to work, then you choose what to do next.. In the manual there's a section in the index called "electric shift program". You'll find the general outline and how to ask for trouble codes on the dash in the first few pages of that section. If it's working and there's no codes, then it narrows down the possible problems.

If it's backfiring into the airbox at about half throttle then it's too lean. If it's backfiring or going flat and gaspy sounding at close to full throttle, and possibly backfiring a bit, then picks up when you throttle off very slightly, it's more likely to be the main jet, but otherwise, between 1/4 and 7/8 it's the needle.

Yeah but 97 you need to raise the needle.. You have to put the clip in a lower groove.

That 13.5v is fairly common. Sometime is you just rev them ever so slightly while you are watching the voltage they go up above it then if you rev them more it goes down again. Batteries are meant to be charged to 14.7 for a full charge, but then once they regulate it's to 13.5. As long as it holds it at 13.5 with the headlight on, and perhpas a few revs, then it's putting out enough current and it will be fine. Have you checked the bulb ?

And as Randy was saying, there's a tool thread in here somewhere. That tool is a bit more complicated than you need. All you need is to drill a hole in a bit of thin beading wood(10x30), put a 4mm diameter bolt through the hole with a washer on the bolt, then get a coin about 25mm diameter, with knurling on it's edge, drill a four mill or less hole through it's center and press it onto the bolt so the bolt cn just turn but not wobble too much. Then solder the coin to the bolt, check how long the bolt needs to be to use for a screwdriver for that job, cut it off and file the end to a screwdriver end. And Randy, you need to stop thinking everything is a "fight".. The worlds a better place than that, and people are better than that.

How can it be that you can't lower the clip 97 ? It must have 3 or 5 grooves, and you need to take the clip down to the middle one, or the second one up. Explain how it can't be done please ?

View File Kazuma Mini Falcon 90 Deluxe Owner's Manual Kazuma Mini Falcon 90 Deluxe Owner's Manual Submitter Mech Submitted 07/29/2023 Category Kazuma ATV  

No drama 97.. I'm just letting it rest..

97.. You should check the pump before wasting money on a new one you may not need. That crud was on the vacuum side. The fuel side was fine. If it pumps fuel, and under a load it's fine. Your symptoms don't as far as I know(because you haven't answered the question yet), come on after a few seconds and as the bowl empties. There are systematic ways to diagnose these problems 97 and if you don't follow them you end up going around in circles, wasting a lot of time, and money, and introducing new problems. Test the pump 97.. It might be that the fuel tap is the problem.. testing the pump will test all the fuel supply system at once.. This is getting quite frustrating and so I'm bowing out. If you want help 97, message me.

I'll check in in a while 97.. Please listen to what I'm saying..

If that's the pump off your bike put it back together.. This is getting ridiculous.

There's a diaphragm there 97.. Don't worry about that. It's just a distraction. You're being led astray. Just go test your other pump on the bike.

97.. if your pump is still on the bike just test it. If you change too many things at a time without testing your steps as you go you will just introduce a lot of complications.. And goodness knows there's been enough of them already.. This diagnosis should be a simple and straight forwards process..

I would have tested that before pulling it to bits. It was probably working fine. Now that you have pulled it to bits it's important as you put it together that you assemble it so the diaphragm has some flex availiable to it. If you just put the diaphragm in and do the screws up with only the spring deflecting the diaphragm it might not have enough movement to work well. You assemble it, do the screws just barely tight enough to hold the parts together and then you apply vacuum to it to deflect the diaphragm. If you are doing it right you will probably, and hope to see, the edges of the diaphragm pull in slightly. If they don't, then loosen the screws a tiny amount. You should be able to suck it and see the edges move, then tighten the screws with the edges pulled in as much as possible. Like a petulant child.... What happens in a persons life to make them so angry about everything.. So defensive I think it's sad It's self limiting, and self destructive as far as I can see, and does nobody any good.. But hey, what would I know....

Oh.. when you are testing the fuel pump by sucking on the vacuum hose, you need to have the fuel tap in the prime position.. I forgot to mention that..

And you need to blow through the jets 97, not flush them in chemicals. In fact, degreasing parts, and parts in degreaser, is just asking for problems. Metal gets a patina on it that stops it getting rust or corroding and if we take that off they corrode. In the case of aluminum and brass together there potential for an electrolysis reaction as well and you should make sure you spray something like crc 565 or wd40 on the parts after cleaning them. Take every jet you can out and blow through it, just your breath will do, then hold it up to the light. The hole should be obvious and appear nice and round. If it's not nice and round or if you suspect it's still dirty then whittle a small bit of hard wood down to a fine point and use that to ream the holes a little then blow them and reinspect them. That's all they need. If you have compresed air, blow gently through all the carb body passages gently to trace where they go, and then blow them backwards to their normal direction of flow with a hard blast of air. Don't blow hard in the normal direction or air flow or especially fuel flow, or you might cause a tight blockage where there was only an obstruction before, In the case of that No6, the tiny holes in the side are arranged opposite one other so you can see through both at once. They are too small for a bit of wood and you don't want to block them so use a single strand of wire from a wire brush to carefully poke through them if it fits easily, and then rotate the wire to rub the sides of the holes carefully then blow them out.. Don't damage the holes or enlarge them. Also, the hole that No6 fits into needs to be clean, check it for corrosion buildup on it's walls. Use a small bit of wood or something to rub up there if needed. It's a calibrated quantity of fuel in there and so that hole has to be clean to hold the right amount.

97.. try pulling on the pull start. You will feel compression bring it to a stop, or feel it creep over easy if a valve is leaking or the compression is low.. but I doubt it is because you say it idles nice. Try the two spark plug test to see if the spark fails at revs, but I doubt it because the symptoms don't indicate that. The backfiring isn't the idle mixture, if you opened the throttle to 1/2 like I said to and it backfires into the airbox then it's the carb aand needle or fuel supply. To test the fuel pump you lay the fuel hose to the carb into a bottle. Lay it on it's side with the hose laying flat. If the hose is dangling down you won't see the fuel pumping out properly. Then suck hard two or three times on the vacuum hose going to the pump, and then let the vacuum off suddenly. You should see a single slug of fuel come out of the fuel hose. The slug should be full diameter of the hose and about ten mills long. If that works then your pump is ok and will work if it's getting good pulsating vacuuum. To test the vacuum you reattach the vacuum hose and start the motor and let it idle. It should pump fuel out of the fuel hose into the bottle at full diameter of the hose and slugs about eight mills long. If that works then the pump is working and it should start and idle at east. Then you need to check the vacuum is still strong enough when the motor is under load. To check that you leave it all as is but sit on the bike, put the brakes on hard, engage first gear and open the throttle until the motor starts straining against the centrifugal clutch. As the motor starts to labour the pump will likely slow down it's delivery of fuel, but it should keep pumping some. If it stops pumping then you have weak vacuum or a malfunctioning pump. The vacuum has to be strong, and pulsating when it gets to the pump. If the vacuum hose has been swapped with some soft thin walled stuff the pulsations can get lost as they suck the vacuum hose flat and then let it out again. Low vacuum can be caused by low compression, tight valves, or air leaks. Low vacuum at high revs can be caused by a blocked exhaust.

Yup, you let us know.. We might have to sort the electric shift yet but hopefully something you have done in there that's got the manual shift working will have solved that too.. I'm feeling confident....

Yes Boss.

Yeah good Randy. I'm really only here to help 97.. Perhaps start a thread about it.

I'm not proposing buying any needle. If I was, because a needle was bent or lost, I'd check the carb specs and buy a genuine needle for that carb.. No guess-work involved. It would be right.. And japanese !