Mech

And check that there's 12 volts at the two motor wires when you are pushing the button.. Check the voltage in both up and down modes. One way it will/should show 12v and in the other way it should show -12v.

Here's the honda manual picture.. And see the shift lever with teeth on needs aligning. output.pdf

Very good.. No trouble. Glad to be of help.

If you have a timing light it's an easy check. Was there water in the cylinder when you got it home ? It may have died because of a wet ignition and so stopped running before the engine filled enough to do any mechanical damage.. If you had a good air filter it shouldn't really have done it.. From your description it doesn't really sound like it should have done it.. Have you checked the throttle cable has freeplay, and free play when the bars are turned ? You can check for air leaks into the inlet manifold by spraying a bit of starter fluid around near there while the engines running. If there's a leak it will start revving..

You get the plastics looking good Gw.. Not something a mech ever does.. not this one anyway.. Nice !

I don't have any faith in spray on cleaners. They wash grease off and leave switch contacts nice and clean, if it's only grease causing a problem, but I don't think they clean up dirty corroded connections like a wire brush or sand paper does. If that board is the connecting place for the various lengths of wire involved, then check the spade terminals they all fit onto, and if there are parts riveted together, check the join between the two riveted bits carefully for resistance. Sometimes boards or fuse boxes get dirty where the wire connects on the back, and the fuse holder or other terminal on the other side of the board or box. Wires can corrode also where they crimp into their terminals.. Sometimes poking a pin through the insulation an inch back and checking for power there shows up the problem.

The kill switch wires are just a parallel connection to the main/key switch's wires, branching off the same black and brown wires the main switch use, and since the main switch works, it has to be in the branching wires that the problem is.

Nope.. It doesn't. If that's where the handlebar switch cables connect to the wiring loom then I think you need to check the wiring loom itself is connected to those points. If you look at that wiring diagram I posted you will see there are two kill wires from the switch to the loom, one black and one brown, and they both splice into the loom.. I don't know where those splices are but you need to find them and check from each splice, to the switch. And check where the wires connect to the terminals on their ends for either broken wire inside the insulation, or dirty crimped connections.

Not sure what you mean by "on the board", but I think you need to link the black and brown wires at the switch's connecting plug, and on the wiring loom side of the plug. If that doesn't kill your running engine then there's a fault in the wiring. And since the main/key switch works, the fault has to be between where the black branches off the main/backbone black wire, to the kill switch, or where it branches off the brown main/backbone wire to the kill switch. If either of those wires from switch to their main/backbone wire is bad the kill switch won't work. You should first though check the wires at the kill switch connector plug to see the wires are making contact with the metal terminals in that plug. They might be broken right there inside the insulation, or they might have a bad connection if the wires are crimped into the terminals. output.pdf

If this bike got enough water into the cylinder to lock it up, you might have broken the key in the flywheel and the ignition timing might be too far advanced..

So both carbs are letting it run too high at idle ? You might have an air leak between the carb and manifold..

If you are sure the kill switch is working, then use a wire to connect the black and the brown kill switch wires at the connector plug and on the wiring loom side of the connector. If the wiring loom is good that will kill a running engine. If it doesn't, then there's a bad connection in the wiring.

You should check your charging system. Make sure it's charging properly, and that it's regulating properly. Charging systems that are playing up can make the engine feel like it's seizing, as you seem to have suspected those years ago. And of course they will let your battery go flat which could be enough to make the engine run bad, then eventually die.

It sounds like the kill switch is playing up.. See in the wiring diagram it has two poles that throw, one disconnecting when the other is connecting.. I'd recheck that.

And so is it still not maxing out ? The reason I was saying to move the needle was because apart from possibly being all that was needed, it is a test.. If it improved things then we are on the right track, if it made no difference or made things worse then it's something else. The charging system can fail in several different ways, and sometimes they cause a ignition cut a lot like rev limiting in cars, but they can also start putting a huge strain on the engine, so it feels like it's seizing as the revs go up, but then freeing up as soon as you let the revs drop slightly. You should test the power wire to the regulator, it has a join inside the wiring loom, and you should check all the earths. Resistance in any of those wires can cause problems. There are seven and five wire regs and some have more than one 12v connection, one being a switched 12v.

Ok, and the other big part of testing it all was the gear position switch which feeds back to the computer.. That's got a check list to make sure each set of contacts in it are working. It still sounds though, since you can help the motor with the hand shift, and the motor helps the hand shift, that the motor's lacking grunt. So, if the gears are all in order, I'd check the power supply getting to the motor is adequate.

I think the message is that with a bit of foot assistance the electric shift does it's job, and can be felt assisting the manual shift as well, which is good.. And it's in the gears because the wheels have resistance.. I took it to be all good.. except for a weak motor.

And they may not fit Gw.. I know some of the aftermarket carbs have different idle adjust screw threads, and needle shape.. And jets come in different threads.. Unless the carb body is worn out I reckon it's always best to do up the OEM. Or seized in idle screws I guess too haha..

you love it....

No adjustment. Well the float, as you know, is meant to maintain a steady level of fuel, and it sounds like that works with a foot or two of head to the fuel level. It runs ok with the jury rig. The float needle's seats are made with different sized orifice to suit the pressure they are meant to be working under. A smaller hole is a smaller area and the float manages to seal the needle in the seat easier with a smaller hole. I've never taken much notice of the seat sizes in different bikes, but it's possible that that same carb body, set-up for a bike with a gravity feed fuel system, has a larger hole in it's seat than a carb designed for pump pressure has. If you have a gravity feed carb it might get the needle forced off it's seat if the orifice is too large for pump pressure. Or, if the new pump is pumping too much pressure. A parts place online might say what size float needle seat they are meant to have, or the service manual should. If you aren't sending the other pump back you could take it to bits and put the spring in the right place. Then try that one. Or revert back to an old pump and try it.. I can tell you how to assemble the pump if you want to look inside it. And I can tell you how to test a fuel pump if you want to check the old suzuki ones. And no the slide needle shouldn't make any difference since both carbs ran fine with a jury rig fuel supply.. which I think had lower pressure than the pump has. I think fuel pressure is causing your problem.. Too much for the carbs.

Well there's about twelve pages of test procedure next to check the dash, switches, computer, and wiring, then it says the motor's not going.. Check the motor. There's another four pages of test procedure for that then they say undo the two small screws and pull the shift motor out and use a battery on it. Then, if it's not the motor look at the reduction gears, which are in another cover on the big cover, and they come out easy too. So the switches and all are working and trying to get the shift to move so it's a pretty sure bet it's the shift motor. And in side it there will probably be stuck or worn out brushes. Starter brushes and probably those brushes, come on a metal plate with new springs and everything on it and it just screws in. They're are about $28 kiwi bucks. Two or three bolts and the shift motor pulls out.

Most those sprung float needles you hang the float down from it's pivot till it just rests lightly against the sprung loaded pin in the float needle. You have the carb body tilted on it's side. Try testing it for pressure. Old carby things with mechanical fuel pumps the fuel pressure was about four pounds give or take a pound. That though is probably meant to be way less. Gravity from a regular bike to the carb would be about a half a foot of height, and water at half a foot only has about point two of a pound.. and fuel will be less. If you can just feel pressure with your finger it's probably enough.. And so both carbs do the same problem, so not a damaged O ring under the float needle seat.. And probably not the tap.. Well.. They have a diaphragm with a big washer on each side that're sort of riveted in the center, and it makes a seat for the spring.. If that leaks fuel can go down the vacuum hose.. If you suck gently on it you might get a whiff, or a mouthfull of fuel.. The fuel tap can do the same thing.. It's a good idea to check your engine isn't filling it's sump with fuel..

It sounds like a weak motor.. I'll have a read. And the gearboxes are always like that.. hard to get to move up or down if they aren't running or rolling.

Right Jim.. I'd thought of flexible drive but it seemed too hard.. That's cool though.

And there's a bullet connector in the small red right near the battery, and that's the wire going to the fuse and key..