Mech

How about pulling some of the float needle seats out and telling us what size they all are.. I've found some specifics and they vary from 1.5 to 3.3...

#12.. The manuals I've been looking in say that there are two different float levels, one around an inch and the other around a half inch. What exact model of carb do you have ? It could be a BST or a Vm, but both models have some other numbers on them if they are OEM, like 19BA or 39DO.. I also noticed that those crankcase vents only vent into the airbox, no branch to the front near the fuel tank.. Where that hose fits to the front of the airbox there is probably a restrictor, or it might even have a restrictor inside that rubber hose.. some did. They get blocked with gunk and can cause crankcase pressure.. but again, it's not your main problem..

Yeah but what if the carbs you have bought are set up for a bike that doesn't have a fuel pump ? Then it will have a bigger sized hole in the float needle seat to suit low pressure gravity fed fuel. If you've used several different carbs, and checked the float needle tip, and the seat and the O ring under the seat, and adjusted the float level, in all of them, and they all keep flooding with the fuel pump, but not with gravity feed, then surely it's the pump causing the trouble. And you've tried several pumps, including an OEM, and they all cause the flooding, so it's not a/the pump, it's all pumps... Or all the carbs are now set for gravity feed systems with low pressure fuel. If what you've been saying is correct, and your work has been careful, then that's the only conclusion I can come to.. If the oil level has gone up, or it smells like fuel, or is making the vent system overload when it's hot.. and filling the airbox with oil.. those are all signs there is fuel in the oil.. It's quite common if the fuel tap isn't closing off.. or in a case like this where the carbs are dribbling fuel. Fuel can get into the oil because of a hole in a diaphragm in the pump or tap, or a leaking tap, or a bad float, bad float needle, bad float needle seat O ring, or badly adjusted float level.

I'm saying some of those models you are mentioning have a fuel pump and some don't. They use those CV carbs on lots of different suzuki bikes, and some of those bikes have pumps, and some don't. But you've confused the issue even further by using other non suzuki carbs which we have no idea whether they are set up for a pump or no pump. I think you should go back to the start and re read what I've been saying repeatedly.. It should be very easy to understand. Not all carbs are the same, not even if they are the same make and model. Or, find the original carb for each bike you have there, and clean and set them up to specs.

No Jd, that's just the opposite to what I said. If you look up parts for all the various carbs availiable for that bike, you will see they all use different float needle seats, with different sized holes where the needle fits.. You need the right float needle seat..

#21.. The problem is that too much fuel is getting into the bowl, not the jets or the slide needle. No amount of adjusting the float height is going to cure a fuel pressure that is too high and forcing the float needle off it's seat.

They vent up near the front of the tank and into the air box. But the problem is the fuel in the cranckcase.. It gets warm and evaporates causing the pressure. Your problem isn't with the vent, it's that fuel is in the oil ! You need to stop the fuel flooding the carbs. The carbs run fine with low pressure gravity feed you tell us, but flood when the fuel pumps, even the genuine OEM pump, is connected.. The carbs are the problem.

Yeah not too sure Gw.. Most of those plates have a splined recess about six mills deep.. It might be enough to prevent the nut going on at all.. or not. Pretty sure thing though that since all the plates were loose(and I think that was with the springs still on), then the back plate isn't doing it's clamping job.

That pumps pumping enough fuel to keep the bike running.. but that's not the issue here. If the float needle seat has too bigger hole in it then the fuel pressure pushes too hard on that larger diameter and area of needle and overcomes the float.. A smaller float needle seat has a smaller area and so the float closes off the fuel pressure easier.. It's the pump causing the problem with those carbs.. they run fine you say under gravity feed. The pump has more pressure than gravity fed fuel does. And if they warm up with fuel in the oil, the fuel starts evaporating and pressurising the sump bad, and trying to run the engine on fumes..

It occurred to me that that nut being only just on there might be a clue.. Maybe that inner plate, the one with the four pillars, perhaps that's not only not aligned to slip forwards onto the hub's splines, but it could perhaps actually be clamped between the hub and the washer and the baskets center sleeve thing.. not just being held by the springs as I was first surmising. If loosening the square plate and springs doesn't let that inner plate and pillars move, then it's clamped when it shouldn't be.. If it wriggles once the springs are let off then it probably just needs maneuvering around and pulling forward till it slips through a steel. or onto the hubs splines.

Ma I misspoke.. It might need a smaller sized float needle's seat. if you look in the service or spares list it might tell you what size it should be.

I explained earlier that fuel pressure in a fuel tank has very little pressure and a fuel system with a pump will have quite a bit more quite likely.. The carb for the pump system will quite likely need a smaller float needle to prevent it flooding. That's my guess.

So what's the update.. Short version..

Carry on in the old thread so it's easy to check what's what and all the history.. My memory's not so good.

Have a good evening..

"Absolutely abused that thing, trashed it crashed it and rolled it all in one ride.". It's what they're made for..

If you go to the home page there is a tag on the upper right called manuals. There should be a manual in there, if not let us know and we'll get one.

That's funny.. I was about to facetiously post "crappy wiring", when I read what your problem was. Sorry to hear it's played up up soon.

Yup, some drain hoses double as overflow hoses if the float needle's leaking. The other hose can be a breather hose and open into the float chamber higher.

The frame number or vin number will tell you what year it is. Find the number and post it up and we'll figure the year.

Ok.. Well I think there are two likely possibilities, I'm assuming that you are saying they are all very loose while the springs are still in there ? In that case it could be that the inner plate, the one with the four pillars on it, didn't get lined up and pulled onto the hub's splines. That inner plate could be being held by spring pressure up against the back side of the hub, and so not compressing the plates as it should. Or, the other thing that comes to mind is that the hub didn't get right through every plate as you were working in in there through the plate's splines, and so it's clamped against the very inner most steel, in which case the inner most steel and friction only will be clamped. You say all the plates are loose though so it seem like the first is the most likely. I think that if you take the square plate off to release the springs(carefully), then either maneuver the hub through the last steel plate, or maneuver the inner plate with the four pillars forwards till it's located over the hub's splines and starting to compress the plates, then put the springs and square plate back on, it will come right. Hope the Doc's good to you.. I suppose it's an expensive thing to go see the Doc over there ?

I didn't watch all of that.. I was about ready to give up at the stage when I saw he didn't rock the bike trying to get the gears to shift, and then he started pounding on the shift lever ! But I carried on, till I saw him not realise that clutch actuator falls out, and he didn't understand how it works.. He thought the balls or plate were meant to react against the aluminum case. Some of these videos are really quite alarming.

No even if the nut was quite loose the splines would turn the hub, if the hub was right on. . It doesn't sound right though about the nut only just being on the threads. It should have threads poking out through the nut to stake it. That might be where the trouble is. Something not sitting right down. If you look in the slots of the clutch basket you should be able to see wear marks were the clutch plates touch the basket.. Check the plates are lined up with the wear marks. In the service manual I read that nut was meant to be tightened to eighty, not one-hundred.. As soon as I heard one-hundred I thought it sounded too tight.. That's why I suggested seventy.. Educated guess.. Be gentle on that thread.

Yeah even that little counter-sunk is important.. It gives finer atomisation.

Ha.. Good spotting.. That bits important all right. They vary too, in diameter and in how the upper end is finished.