Mech

I've got a manual that says it does both models, the Bb and the kodiak. It's best to get the full model designation, like Yfm400As.. Look here.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2004 There are always lots of differences.. Small differences but they become critical when you are working with the electricals in particular, or carbs..

Alex #238.. The service manual has all the servicing as well the overhaul/repair information in it. And Js, it's best to get the right manual. They probably do share a lot in common, but there will be differences too. Some kodiak are water cooled for a kick off.. Which manual do you need ?

Here's how to test the fuel pump.. And you do need to check it's working as the load comes on the engine and the vacuum drops.. To test the fuel pump you lay the fuel hose to the carb into a bottle. Lay it on it's side with the hose laying flat. If the hose is dangling down you won't see the fuel pumping out properly. Then suck hard two or three times on the vacuum hose going to the pump, and then let the vacuum off suddenly. You should see a single slug of fuel come out of the fuel hose. The slug should be full diameter of the hose and about ten mills long. If that works then your pump is ok and will work if it's getting good pulsating vacuuum. To test the vacuum you reattach the vacuum hose and start the motor and let it idle. It should pump fuel out of the fuel hose into the bottle at full diameter of the hose and slugs about eight mills long. If that works then the pump is working and it should start and idle at east. Then you need to check the vacuum is still strong enough when the motor is under load. To check that you leave it all as is but sit on the bike, put the brakes on hard, engage first gear and open the throttle until the motor starts straining against the centrifugal clutch. As the motor starts to labour the pump will likely slow down it's delivery of fuel, but it should keep pumping some. If it stops pumping then you have weak vacuum or a malfunctioning pump. The vacuum has to be strong, and pulsating when it gets to the pump. If the vacuum hose has been swapped with some soft thin walled stuff the pulsations can get lost as they suck the vacuum hose flat and then let it out again. Low vacuum can be caused by low compression, tight valves, or air leaks. Low vacuum at high revs can be caused by a blocked exhaust.

Look a part up in partzilla, choose the part by clicking on it's part number and it takes you to a new page, scroll down and it shows you what other model bikes that part fits.. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/22201-MAL-600?ref=55fce17ac7eed84d89c966db8609111a28a4e5d1 Did this problem come on suddenly, or just gradually over months get worse. Clutches normally take a long time from the first signs till they won't drive any more. Something might have come loose or broken. And no, it seems the 350 and 400 parts do not interchange.. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/22201-MAE-000?ref=46d9e4043d48249bcc0c6c974c5fbed382aaf225

It's probably the clutch. If the clutch wears out it generally gives plenty of warning though.. Has it been slipping for a while ? If not then are you sure it's going into gears ? Does the shift feel right ? Have you tried it in all the gears ? Are there any bad/strange noises coming out of the gearbox ? Have you checked the clutch lever down on the case is free and going right back when you let the lever on the bars out ? Have you tried adjusting the clutch ? Unless there are bad noises or a bad feeling shift on the lever then I think you need to take the clutch cover off and have a look..

If you download the service manual it has a table of resistances that the cdi unit should have. If you refer to that table you should be able to figure which wire on the new unit is which.

A quick look in the manuals and the online parts places reveals that there are at least three variations of cdi unit...

Better tell us more about the bike so we can find the right wiring diagram.

Turning the headlight on makes a difference to how many revs it will get to before stuttering too if it's the charging quite often.. Try that.

As you tap the bearing in only tap it on the outer race, and listen to the noise. It will change when the bearing isn't going in any more. And if you warm the case slightly, even just sitting in the sun if it's hot, will make a difference to how the bearing goes in.. A bit of oil and light taps around the outside race being very careful not to let it get cocked over and it should be fine. And, yeah that tiny bit above the case shouldn't be a problem.

Looks ok in the last photo. Better than mu sack ! As you say, a bit tighter stretch might have been the go. Anything that stops a wet bum and the foam crumbling away though. You can get short staples for hard material. They used to be available from 6 to 12 mills long on the legs that go it.

Check your charging system, and the fuel supply.. Normally the power just fades away as the revs get high. If it's stuttering like a EFI car hitting the rev limiter then it's quite likely a problem with the charging. The first simple test is just to put a voltage gauge across the battery and see the voltage rises once it's started, and that it doesn't go over about 14.7 after a few minutes and some revving.

Oh yeah.. We can't buy covers here.. not genuine anyway.. I've got a sack on mine. How much was that cover ?

Oh true.. That's a throttle limiter really but it might be his problem.

Ha.. If you rev it up all the time it'll start smoking. They don't handle well enough to go fast. Get a sports model if you like thrashing.

Ej !!! Well.. I'd guess it was that clutch release thingy that caused the problem there. At 1/8 of an inch it would only be either the hollow dowels that locate the cover, or the clutch mechanism.. and if it had been the dowels , given they are right near to the bolts, you'd only have had minor and localised distortion if any.. But that clutch thing being right in the middle.. yup.. that would break it.. The real shame here Ej is that it could have been so easily avoided. If you'd asked how to keep the clutch thing in place I could have told you.. You use a blob of vaseline. You put it on a flat place if possible and then push the bit on hard and the grease holds it real good. For that particular part you might need quite a bit, some behind and some between the plates. Simple as that though. Anyway.. Lesson learnt I hope.. If in doubt, ask. Both Gw and I are very happy to help where we can and have plenty of experience with these things. Oh.. and don't use common workshop chassis or wheel-bearing grease, they don't melt easily enough. Vaseline melts at pretty much body temperature and won't cause any harm. It does mean you can't handle the part much or the vaseline will go soft and not hold things so good. But if the vaseline is cold, it will hold quite big parts in place if they fit together flat.

Yeah that's usual to have to rock the bike or wheels to allow the gears to align and slip together. And you know about the sprag clutch making it have engine braking when the wheels are turning forwards, but not when they are turning backwards. And that's working.. so all good. And so now we just need to be sure the shift clutch is locked up is the thing.. And then to check it disengages when the shift lever is held up or down once the cover is on and the clutch adjusted.. If you put it into low gear and try turning the wheels forwards it should be real hard, it should try to turn the engine over.. You shouldn't be able to turn the engine over in first gear..

No that's all sounding right.. Cover on, adjust the clutch, check the clutch disengages with the manual shifter.. If the clutch disengages the wheels should turn a lot freer than they did a minute ago in gear and turning the wheels in the forwards direction..

That gap at the back is ok. When the clutch release pushes on the square plate at the front it pushes the pillars and the back aluminum plate back to free the plates. When it was in fifth gear and you turned the wheels forwards it should have turned the engine over.. and so had resistance. And when you turn the wheels backwards the sprag/oneway clutch should slip and so there should be little resistance.. As long as the clutch is locking up now it should be right. The shift clutch shouldn't be able to be slipped at all by you.. If you think there is some problem though, like it seems to be slipping, let us know.. Show us a picture of the nut on the shaft if the square plate is still off.. I'm a bit concerned you said the nut is only just on there.. Do you remember how far on it was to start ?

Good one.. Check it with a bit of load.. put it in gear and put the back brakes on and see the drive goes through.. tries to turn the wheels. Or put it in gear and turn the wheels and see it tries to turn the engine turning forwards and doesn't turn the engine with the wheels going backwards. Then as you put it together, recheck at every stage.. Straight after getting the cover bolts in, adjust the clutch, (which you should confirm how that does go while the cover is off, that it is a standard right hand thread), then check the clutch disengages by lifting the manual shift lever and trying to turn the wheels while it's in gear. While that shift lever is being held up or down it should let the clutch slip. If it doesn't work adjusted like the book says, try it the other way, winding the bolt in till it just touches then out a 1/4 turn. I'm pretty sure that is a translation problem in the manual. It was quite likely corrected in the paper copy with an appendix that didn't get added to the pdf.. Then if that's all working carry on with all the other stuff.. And then we will get back to the electric shift ! Did you check it was getting full voltage right at the electric motor, with the motor connected ? That's next I think. And yeah, that inner plate was not slid onto the splines on the hub.. Easy enough to do.. Check your work at the end of every little step.. Check, recheck and check again..

Not dumb.. just need to be more methodical probably.. and assume nothing. The people that sell the aftermarket carbs will tell you anything. The OEM carbs are set up for the fuel a particular market has, and it's climate, altitude, emission requirements, whether the bike is sporty or a workhorse.. The aftermarkets aren't set up for any of that. They are just generic tune that might run on a heap of different makes and models. And we can' go swapping just some of the internals.. If we change one jet, we need to change a heap. Good work sorting it all out eventually.. And patience is the mark of a good mechanic.. All the good ones are patient.. And impatient people don't make good mechanics.

Ha.. yeah man.. something like that.. I was thinking more along the lines of assume nothing.. That lesson applies to you and me here..

There's a lesson to be learnt here... Not about those carbs though..

Those bridge rectifiers don't regulate voltage..

There are two VM models shown for america and canada.. But I bet there are other ones for NZ or aussie or europe.. sweden.. If it doesn't have one of the other numbers(19AB0, 19B02) then it's not going to be genuine OEM. and it could be set up for a different bike.. The overflow hose being crimped won't help for sure, but it shouldn't have any fuel in it if the float needle etc is good. Lots of float needles leak slightly though, not enough to upset the running, but if the fuel taps leak overnight they can fill the crankcase.. You should take the hose off it and sit and watch it doesn't drip.. Same with the vacuum hose..