Mech

I got the impression that the special tool is just a connector plug with some wires and a nine volt battery. All it's doing is measuring the resistance across the throttle position sensor using a nine volt battery as a reference instead of an ohms reading.

If you download the service manual it has a section describing how and what to do in the way of routine maintenance. It's generally a good idea first to look your bike up in some online parts place and check what exactly your model is known as. They are generally YFM400, then two or three letters. The suffix letters are important if you want the very specific information about your bike. The general YFM400 will do for some things, but the specific suffix lets you know things like the carby model and jetting, the ignition system it uses(because they vary a lot), and any spare parts you might want to buy. YFM400s can have air or water cooling, and be five speed or two speed belt drives.. just to name a couple of things. There's two versions shown for that year.. some years they have more.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2002

Ha.. Track pin.. Something none of us want to be dealing with.. Track pins that is.. Tracks are right up there with the very worst sort of machinery to be playing around with. Got my fingers bit by too many of those things.

Only parallel fields motors always run the same direction. These are permanent magnet motors as far as I know which will run backwards with reversed voltage. I also though it would be hard to get the brushes in backwards. Most have a solid power connection bolt coming out the side of the cover. I don't know how that could get misplaced.. I'm interested how it's come to be running backwards. Hopefully it has been apart. If not then the battery's in backwards.

Looks good. The genuine was about $60. It's an expensive pin !

You do need to recalibrate the TPS. Also, if you removed the carb then check for vacuum leaks. untitled - 2007 Polaris Sportsman 700 800 800 EFI Service Manual.pdf

As said it must be getting reversed voltage. Has the battery been out ? Has the starter been overhauled ? If it's in the bike still I'd take it out and confirm it straight from a battery in case the battery has been installed backwards. If the battery is in backwards though it will almost certainly have blown the regulator. If the regulator is blown it will probably make sparks when the battery leads are connected.. I think.

Actually guys, that might not be the right part.. I've seen pictures of the lever with a little shallow groove right there where that thing that might or might not be a pin is. The diagrams are normally pretty good and clear.. That could be a shallow groove and not a pin. I've seen levers with a groove there.. If I was ordering the part Jim, I'd mail them and get them to confirm it is the right part, with a pin.. It's not a cheap part.

It's normally a steel pin.. They get a bit loose but I don't think they break.

That does look like the right lever.. When I looked up the 1995 it showed a lever without the pin. I didn't find the pin type till 2004 kingquad. That was using partzilla and babbits. There are so many different markets though, and what's fitted in one market in one year, isn't always the same in some other market for the year.. See the picture I posted Jeff has a bit underneath for a brake light switch.. your's may not have that.. Where's you look up that picture Gw ?

It should be part 22.. except that's for a later model than yours.. Your year doesn't show that type of handbrake lock.. So someone has updated the lever mount but not the lever.. I think. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/suz/508aef02f870023530722878/handle-lever

Any of these ? https://ownersmanuals2.com/make/kawasaki Let us know a year and I'll try to find you one.

An owners manual will tell you all you need to know. They are freely availiable. And yes, the books say to use low gear if going slow. The belts get damaged easily if you use them in too higher gear or try to climb slowly over things or get stuck in mud. Belts that are getting hot smell. Watch(with your nose) for it.

That sort is meant to have a different brake lever, with a steel stud poking up. Someone's changed it with some common off the shelf lever. Or the correct lever is on the other side of the bike with the peg poking down.

On mine you pull your brake lever hard and then swing a little steel lever,, um.. you reach over with the right hand and sort of sweep the little lever back as you let the brake lever off and the little lever stops it.. presses in between the brake lever and the mount or something. Pull the brake hard, swing the little lever in a backward direction and see where it jambs. To let it off you just squeeze the brake. The brake has to be adjusted just right for it to be both apply-able, and effective.

The rubber bushes ? About 25 I'd say. It's important to have it on it's wheels and to have bounced it a bit before tightening the bolts. They are meant to flex in the rubber, so it needs to NOT be pre-tensioned rubber. caused by lowering it onto the wheels.

Yeah that does look good. Not sure about this no foot-brake caper though.. You need that to get the park-brake on hard. And they need to be on hard around here.

Oh ok. I'm not familiar with yamaha but I think the cable is for reverse inhibit.. I have read about problems though with the spring inside the case where that cable goes , so perhaps try pulling on the cable and making sure it has spring tension. Long shot and I don't think it can cause your problems. I think that just causes problems getting reverse. Hi/lo should still work. So another thing might be to drain the oil and check it for metal flakes or chunks or anything that would indicate broken parts. That might confirm broken bits, which is always nice before we pull things apart. But, regardless.. It does sound like it's time to strip the gearbox..

Try this.. 00-05bigbear-kodiak400.pdf

Have you tried adjusting the cable ? Or, disconnect the cable and try shifting the lever right on the box.. And yeah, diagnose before pulling it apart..

Yeah that does seem a bit rare.. All I can find is 325 bigboss or magnum engines, both ATVs.. What year is it and is it water or air cooled, and carby or EFI ?

If it takes more than a thump with your hand to close up the gap then there's something wrong. And the bearings should all be in the case, and the shafts should pull out and go into them nicely. If that centrifugal/crank shaft seems like a tight fit in the bearing you should use a small oilstone on the very end of the shaft.. It might have a tiny burr and if you use the stone flat across the end of the bearing seat, at right angles to the shaft, it should show up and be easy to remove.

#298.. Oh, really ? Not how I remember it. No matter. As long as you've found the problem now.

Oh. I thought you'd ticked those off on page two, and again a few pages back. I thought 1998 at #293 might have found it useful to check his system..

I've got a manual that says it does both models, the Bb and the kodiak. It's best to get the full model designation, like Yfm400As.. Look here.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2004 There are always lots of differences.. Small differences but they become critical when you are working with the electricals in particular, or carbs..