Mech

If the trans seized it would still pull or crank over. The centrifugal clutch would allow that.

After going into the kill switch it branches to the lights and the key again for start.. so if neither lights nor start work, it seems likely to be before(the circuit breaker) or in the kill switch.. assuming the power is coming out of the key switch on the R/b wire. The wire goes in the the key, and out again, on spliced wires.. Might be worth checking the splices are not dirty.

So what model ? Sportsman etc.. I'll see if I can find manual. Not just the kill switch got bumped off.. I think some of those have a connection board in the headlight.. So I've read.. And two years earlier model the power went into the key on a red wire and came out on a red/black wire.. Is that working ? Then one R/b wire goes to a circuit breaker and then to the kill switch on the handlebar. I don't know yours will be the same though. That's for a late 2004, with fuel gauge(which they mention as an identifier)..). Does your's have a fuel gauge ?

Oh that's a pity after all that work Jeff. I'm sorry to hear that. Yeah if it will make a spares bike then the son might as well have it. At least, apart from all the frustration and stiff neck, it hasn't cost too much to do all this work. Hopefully you will find another bike and we'll see you back in here soon.. in happier circumstances.

Could be water got in somewhere, possibly a wiring connector down near the crankcase, or water got on the spark-plug cap and has now made a track across it causing a short, or, a stick's ripped a wire off somewhere, down low or the handlebars..or.. the circumstances had nothing to do with it and it's just a coincident .. haha Helpful huh. When you say no fire, do you mean no spark to the plug ? Is the plug getting fuel on it ? There are ways to diagnose these things before rushing off to buy a new cdi unit.

Good one track. It's good to chat about things other than machinery from time to time in the forums, and family relationships is as good a topic as any. I lost my wife when my sons were two and four and bought them up(dragged them up some might say), in the workshop, and homeschooled them.. They both moved away for a time but then both came back to build on the land, with wives and kids.. Now I'm blessed by their presence and support. Time put in with your kids is just the very best thing you can do in life, and we need to get on and do it when we have the opportunity because, as I found to my sorrow, life is short.

I thought we got rid of hand shifters about 1938..

If this is the 2000 BB400 then this is what you need I think.. As always, if the wire colours don't seem right let us know.. Yamaha love to change their wiring. One thing to note is that the wire going to the temp light changes from R/w to Br at a splice in the main power wire from the fuses. Those splices(shown as dots on the wires) are sometimes just crimped joins and can get dirty when they are old. output.pdf

You really need to get the manual and follow it's diagnosis process. There is a temp sensor, a temp control unit, and a relay and circuit breaker for the fan. If neither the fan nor the light come on it could be the unit or the sensor, but the light is meant to come on when you use the electric start as a check, so follow the diagnosis process to make sure you find the problem

You just need to loosen the clutch adjusting nut enough that it's not locking the bolt(about a half a turn), then hold it while you turn the screw/bolt, then lock the bolt/screw up again without letting the bolt/screw turn. When the clutch wears the free play reduces and so you are backing the adjuster a small distance away from the pushrod(20) in the diagram. Parts 19 and 21 in the second photo push the pushrod.

All good. (Thanks Admin)..

Well if it's been parked up I'd definitely give it an hour of running hoping it was going to come right. That might just settle the valves and rings in. Then the standard process would be to give it a general tune before deciding anything was wrong, plug, air-filter, check for any blocked caby vent hoses, check the idle mixture, maybe adjust the valves, check the exhaust system for leaks or blockage(some quads have a bung to drain the exhaust). If it's sat for a year it might just need a bit of oil on the air-cleaner if it's an oiled sort. If you still think it's a bit hesitant then, it's possible the slide needle might need an adjustment, or the idle mixture needs a bit of a tweak.

Well.. You could tell us a bit of it's history.. Like when it was last used, whether this problem's just started since the oil change(we hope not), whether it's come on fast or been getting worse for a while.. When it last had a service/tune. Does it roll nicely(brakes dragging perhaps). You could sit on the bike and take not of where half way is on the throttle before you go for a drive so you can describe the throttle opening. Then, how much throttle were you giving it when it started failing, did it make a difference if you opened the throttle slowly, how far up in the revs, whether it could be coaxed past the flat spot or just got worse the further you opened the throttle. There are different circuits that operate in the carb and they go, idle, then from idle to about 1/4 throttle, then from 1.4 to about 3/4 or a fraction more(7/8 throttle), then full throttle. And, was it misfiring or just dull but steady, was it backfiring out the exhaust or carb. You could open the drain screw on the bottom of the carb and check fuel keeps flowing out of there when the taps on, you could check the ckoke's working and going right off, you could check the air-filter's not too dirty. You could go for a ride up a hill so the engines loaded up to the point of struggling and keep it there for a few seconds then flip the kill switch and stop and take the spark plug out and see if it's black or white. Give us more information and we can perhaps figure out where to start looking.

Thank you Gw. Your help and support is always and much appreciated by everyone here I'm sure.. By me anyway.

I bet. Have you driven two wheel bikes before much ? Do you know how to change gears without using a clutch on a two wheeler ? It's much the same, and the same a s what I was describing in that second paragraph, but a bit harder on a quad. If it changed gears jacked up, then it will change riding it if you can take the load off the gears as you try shifting.

No trouble.

And that manual has been approved and is showing on the home page, or it will be in the manuals section.

Well if it shifted through all the gears when there was no load on things, a torque load from the engine that is, then it should shift when riding as long as there is no torque load on the gears. To test that you should put it into gear and drive it till it's revving fairly high and then let the throttle off abruptly as you change gears. As the engine changes from driving the bike forwards to giving engine braking there will be a moment where there is no torque load on the gears and they should change nicely. Timing between the throttling off and the shift is critical though so try it a few times at different revs and timings. Try it with the manual shift and the electric. We might still have to do something with the electric shift. Then, if that works try to get the clutch to adjust as per the book, then if that doesn't work, try adjusting it as I've suggested earlier, winding it in till it contacts and then out the 1/8 of a turn. I'd imagine the adjuster bolt feels tight now because it's already pressing the release bearing, which means it probably needs backing off.. which ever way that is. You can check the shift clutch is working, both releasing and driving, by lifting the lever into first, then keep holding it up while you rev the engine. If the clutch adjustment is right, holding the shift lever up operates the shift clutch just like a manual clutch with a lever on the bars, and it won't drive forwards when the centrifugal clutch starts to try and drive it, then, if you keep the revs up to where you know the centrifugal would have locked up and been driving, and lower the shift lever, the bike should lurch forwards. Be careful. If holding the shift lever up doesn't prevent it moving forwards once the centrifugal clutch starts to operate then the shift clutch isn't working. Try adjusting it again differently.

Ha.. Phew. Had me worried for a while there.

No trouble.. Hope all the explanations made sense. It does to me.. But it's language I'm used to, and I wrote it.. Haha. Ask away if there's anything confusing. That "pair valve"(air valve I think), won't operate at idle or it would bugger up the vacuum. It uses vacuum, probably from a port somewhere that only gets vacuum when the throttle is open, so under the slide probably, to open.

View File 1993-1999 Yamaha YFM400FW Kodiak Service Manual w/Supplement 1993-1999 Yamaha YFM400FW Kodiak Service Manual w/Supplement YFM400FW YFM400FWH 1996 LIT-11616-KD-40 LIT-11616-10-01 Submitter Mech Submitted 08/26/2023 Category Yamaha ATV  

The manual I got does euro.. All air cooled till 2000. Hmmm.

Seems yours might be a FAR..

The yanky sites all say it shouldn't be water cooled till 2000... Same for nz and aussie.. might be a jap model or european.. First belt drive is in 2000 too for yanky models..

Dang.. The manual I got was for america and canada, but it's air cooled and five speed.. Your's must be for some other market.. Or the year is wrong. I'll have another check.