Mech

Part #11 and #12 you want. The inner one is to keep the oil in and the outer one is to keep the dirt out.. You should check the bearing #10 too. And the opposite side, #13, #14. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003910df870021f60a0d2c2/rear-wheel

Sets an example to the parents too Gw.. that they should indulge and encourage their kids.. I do it with my grands too, and then next week see the son taking the time to explain things..

ha.. kids.. They know it all..

Yup.. What he said.. except perhaps for the tapping with a hammer.. might as well pull it out and clean it and perhaps fit a new set of brushes.. which come all assembled on a steel plate you just fit in. Or try the kickstart ?

Parts mate, are the bane of a mechanics life.. You'd think the would only change the parts needed for the new models improvements, but no, they go and change a whole heap of stuff that looks the same and doesn't seem to make any improvement at all.. And they change things half way through a model run too.. I better stop now before I get really wound up !

I'm sure that for a whole lot of woowser reasons we are meant to say not to use them.. but I'd pump them up gently, with a hand pump as they recommend since they take so little air or pressure, and see what they look like. Unless they had a lot of small cracks I'd use them.

Check the cdi is getting power and a good earth, and that the coil is earthed. 2006sportsman400-500.pdf

Dang.. And the parts places don't show us that little detail. And... the two different parts don't even look interchangeable, not without their own housings.

Fresh fuel saves a lot of problems.. Let it run right through the carb and out the drain screw for a few seconds..

Oh.. Well I hope you get a good run with the new one. Hondas are normally very good. Let us know how the hunting goes...

Yup.. As long as that spring cushioned bit on the left hand shaft is assembled correctly that's how it goes.

Some KQ have two different cable fittings on the carb, one that screws in and one that just pushes in a short way then has an adjuster on that bit. I think it would be easy to spot on the parts diagrams.

Not a problem for a mechanic.. I just ride them unless they won't go anymore.. or stop.. Then I fix them if I have to.

The fifteen second thing's a bit strange.. I'd find the wire and short it to the engine and see if the light comes on straight away. I think that should start in gear as long as the back brake light is on.. if that's the main problem.

Yeah the manual says the gear position switch is inside the case, near the clutch. Rearwards of the clutch.. output.pdf

Even a crook battery normally keeps delivering more than 2v. And the battery was working sort of the other day, before you disconnected the cables to charge it. I'd try a jumper lead carefully fitted to the battery post, not the battery cable, to see if there's a bad connection somewhere.

Yeah you're right Ej, if it's 12.6 after the charge and you crank it over it should drop as you crank, but should recover to over 12 when you let your thumb off the button.

That sounds like a good test of the battery. Another common test is to turn the charger off and wait for a few hours before checking the voltage. It shouldn't be below about 12.6. Batteries vary with the temperature and age though, but the voltage should stay stable over hours and hours, overnight is a good time.

I doubt the flare nut type would be made for that torque.. To tell the truth though, I doubt it needs to be torqued precisely. If you have a torque wrench that goes to 150, or close to it, put it's drive in the vice and get a feel for what various torques feel like, like start at eighty and then try one-hundred then one-twenty or whatever your wrench will go to, then just make an estimate and do the inner nut up reasonably tight and then crank the outer/lock nut up to as close as you can calculate it should be with a plumbers wrench/pipe wrench or big crescent.

Try charging the battery first. It might be all it needs. As Gw says, they don't like sitting partially flat, and you might not have charged it enough after the first driving around the house break down. And, one of the first things they say to do when diagnosing the electric shift is to check the battery is fully charged. Once the battery is charged and the engine is running put the volt gauge across the battery and check it's at at least 13.5, and preferably nearer 14.7. If you have the wheels jacked up and try the gears with the engine running, you should be able to tell by the speedo, or the speed the wheels are going at, whether it's getting up through the gears. Jack it up and test the gears manually with the engine running, then if you can get all the gears try the electric shift and see if you can get all the gears.

Flipflops ? Thongs, jandals, japanese sandles ? I reckon. And gloves, they're essential. First thing people do when they have even a minor fall is poke their hands out.

Crowsfoot spanner ?

Do you have a frame number for that Moto ? Or a model designation, something like 4HN*. The ER doesn't seem to match that year..

Fair enough.

Obviously.. So how did these machines with burnt inlet valves idle ?