Mech

I don't think the sprag comes out unless you unbolt the unit from the flywheel in that particular bike Dave.. just going on the picture here.. The sprag looks to have a shoulder/flange at our end of it, which would be up against the flywheel I think.. And the flywheel would need to be off as well. It's possible that one of the gears could have shed two or three teeth.. but that's unlikely too.. Never seen a broken tooth. But then.. The sprags are normally very very reliable.. unless they get full of.. metal shards !!!

Doesn't look like a solenoid.. Does it have any part numbers on it ?

The round profile/cross section nobbly tyres they come out with are the best riding and give the best steering. Wide flat profile tyres cleated tyres effect the steering and handling badly, and are slightly harder on the steering/suspension and wheel bearings. Unless you ride exclusively in really soft mud(or snow perhaps which I know nothing about), I'd recommend the standard round nobbly tyres. And yeah.. Kenda are a good make.

Best to find/replace the original pin which must have been there or the starter wouldn't have worked. The original pin will be hardened. If you use a set of vernier gauges you could measure the depth of each hole the pin goes into, and the depth below the case faces where the pin sits, and by adding all four measurements together you will have the pin length.

All the bike starters use a sprag clutch like that Parham.. Well everything except a harley perhaps..

I'd disconnect the cable at the engine/box and try moving the lever down there to see if it goes into gear, then if it works ok down there I'd look at the cable and top-end shift lever and mechanism.. Nothing in the transmission should be wearing or needing that much adjustment.. It's almost certain to be in the cable or fittings.. something bending perhaps ?

Yup.. that's how to test it. Or jack the rear end up ? They detect a difference in speed between the front and rear and then engage.. So if you jack the rear up on a trolley jack, or jack it up and rest it under the frame on some planks it can slide along, and put it in gear it should start trying to pull itself along by the front wheels.

Part #1 is the gear the starter engages with, and the sprag is the part of set #4 nearest us in the picture.

No that's not right Parham.. Not for these bike starters.. They aren't the pre-engaged/solenoid-engaged sort that cars have. If it was working for a while when you first put it back in Cheeta then it's most likely that the ratcheting mechanism inside the cases has played up. There's a ratchet called a "sprag clutch" that rides on the back of the flywheel in the side case and it allows the starter to turn the engine over but once the engine is running it just slips and doesn't turn the starter. If you take the starter out and partly strip it so you have the commutator/shaft and the end housing thatbolts to the engine, you can bolt those two parts in and test it by turning the shaft by hand. It should turn freely one way but the other way it should try to turn the engine.

Yamaha change their cdi units a lot, and it's hard to figure which one you need, and the stator, wiring loom, switches and cdi all have to be a matched set or it's likely it won't spark. The cdi's can have several different number of wires, but that isn't enough to identify them, and the switches have different numbers of wires, but that isn't enough to identify them, and the stators have different numbers of wires, but that isn't enough to identify them either.. They really are mongrels. haha. Start a new post about it and I'll talk you through how to get a matches set of components.

It will be a defective rubber hose, the one to that wheel. They swell up inside so that the pressure you apply with the lever is enough to apply the brakes, but the return pressure, which in the case of a drum brake is a spring, and in the case of a disc brake is only the flex of the rubber piston seal, isn't enough to force the fluid back.

Yeah quite agree about the torque. It's not critical. It's not too hard to learn what various torque figures feel like with different length wrenches anyway. Just put the torque wrench in a vice and try various torques holding the wrench at various lengths. We got made to do it as part of our training. It's a good thing to know and reconfirm occasionally, especially as you get older. Things change..

Oh no I was just saying the year suzukis came out as a 300 varies from place to place. Sometimes what you guys have doesn't coincide with our year models. I was probably confused about what WeeBee was asking.

How about buy a new spare nut.. cheaper than a whole set of spanners. Also, some of those nuts are skinny and the inner nut needs a thin spanner. I've made thin spanners before out of 6mm steel strap. You plan it so the hex will be at an angle to the handle, then cut two sides of the hex out of the end at that angle, then take a wedge off the other end and weld it on to make the last side of the hex. As long as you use it so the load comes on near the inner end of the welded bit they are plenty strong enough.

Ha.. Ok.

Can't you measure across the flats of the nut ?

It varies from country to country WeeBee.

Sounds like a bad fuel supply.. Dirty filter perhaps. Tank vent blocked.. Is this a fuel injected engine ? Can you tell us what year this is ?

That's the order you do it in anyway.. Hopefully the carb, and the size it is, is already set up by the carb manufacturer to be right for the size engines those are normally fitted to, and any changes are only to suit a new cam or hot-up. People have trouble when they decide a bigger carb must make their bike go faster.. haha.. and so they fit something that lacks air velocity through it.. then the fun starts.

Oh ok.. well to set a carb up from scratch you set up the idle fuel and air jets so the adjustment of the idle mixture screw is working right in the middle of it's operating/adjustment range, then you pretty much jump to the main jet if the carb/vehicle is able to run up to there and you adjust/change the main and main air jets so it's running right or slightly rich at full throttle, then you test/change slide needles and discharge tubes or emulsion tubes till it runs nicely with a steady throttle or slow opening throttle, through the needle's range, then you change the emulsion tube for one with more or different air holes, and/or the slide cutaway, to overcome any flat spots on hard acceleration. And hopefully, if you've done it all right, it comes together pretty quickly without too much fiddling around.

Performance.. Under load.

Does it drive in any gears in 2WD ? Rev, low or high ? If it drives in only some gears when in rear wheel/2wd drive then it looks like it will be in the gearbox. Drain the engine oil and check it for metal dust.flakes or lumps. If it doesn't drive in any rear wheel drive gears, then you should check the rear driveshaft is turning, and not making the noise, and if it is turning, then drain the rear diff and check it's oil for metal dust, flakes or lumps. If the rear drive shaft isn't turning then it's lost it's drive between the shaft inside the engine that takes the power to the front and rear driveshafts. There's a long shaft inside the engine that rotates and both the front and rear driveshafts slide onto it with a spline. The long shaft must be turning because you have drive to the front, so the rear driveshaft may have stripped it's splines where it slides on at the back of the engine.

Doesn't look like they have separate letters at the front? https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/a/pol/63334553e24ca003847266a6/body-hood-and-front-facia Rear.. https://www.polarispartshouse.com/oemparts/a/pol/63334553e24ca003847266a5/body-decals-graphics

Lol..

I think that seal can be changed without pulling the axle out.. I'd have a small lever/hook that would pull it out I'm pretty sure. If you can get something between the seal and the axle, something with a slight turn or hook at the end, you can quite likely pull/lever it out. And yeah, I'd check why/if there's a reason it's leaking.. Perhaps a bit of grass wrapped around the axle, or a worn bearing, or the breather's blocked and the housing is pressurising when it gets warm.