Mech

Oh ok. Then yeah, check the fuel pressure. I'd also put the timing light on it and make sure the spark wasn't failing before the engine stopped turning. If the spark fails the engine will do a turn or two before it stops, but if it's a fuel problem the spark will keep firing right down to near the engine stopping turning, or to below idle speed at least.

The carbs are easier to get out if you unbolt the aircleaner with the two bolts at it's rear and drop the rear down, then it moves backwards enough to get the carb out. Darkrider, if it's the outer cv boot, you put it in 4x4 and then try driving it slowly on a hard surface and with full lock the front axle will click and clack and grab and misbehave if the cv is worn out. If it's the inner you grab them and try to move them up and down or front and rear feeling for any play, and try rotating the shaft and the housing by hand feeling for play.. If they feel smooth and have only minimum play I'd strip it and clean it and regrease it and fit a new boot. The bolts that hold the A frames in seize into the rubber bushes and wear out in the frame quite often so check all those carefully and grease the bolts when you put it back together.

You should start testing the components for the ignition system. I'd start with the stator and check the resistances at the engine plug and then again at the cdi plugs to make sure all the wires are intact and connected to the right pins at the cdi. Then I'd also test those same wires at the cdi by checking they are getting some voltage when the engines cranked over. Have you got the service manual and wiring diagram ? And is it for the exact year and model, because yamaha change things a lot, and does the book look like what you are seeing in front of you on the bike ? Are the wires the right colour, does the stator plugs and cdi plugs have the right number and colour of wires ?

Here's the nearest diagram I have.. right year but smaller engine. Check the wiring against the bike before trusting it. output.pdf

It sounds like it could be water in the fuel. If there's a way to drain the carb I'd do that, and check the flow to the carb is adequate..

Putting tyres on (or off) is easy, it's getting the beads to break that's the problem. That carb, the shaft can't be that sticky surely ? Are you sure it's not the butterfly touching, perhaps still a bit off center, or, the spring is pushing it a bit sideways to it's sticking on one side of the bore ? Could the spring be meant to have some sort of bush in the center of it to keep it clear of the shaft or body of the carb, or, perhaps the spring is meant to be rotated and set in some other place on the outer end ? Perhaps the spring is forcing the shaft sideways somehow ?

Check the kill switch too..

Some of the starting fluids have something like kerosene in them, and it may have drowned the spark plug. I'd try another plug.

No trouble.. Glad to hear the drilling went well and it's all good now.

You might be able to get them relined. A brake specialist should be able to do it.

It's the hot exhaust that's the real problem.. The right angle or flexible drive is what you want. This looks good.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHYW1PBF?tag=qcforum-20

View File 2004-2011 Kawasaki Mule 600 610 Service Manual 2004-2011 Kawasaki Mule 600, 610 Service Manual Submitter Mech Submitted 10/02/2023 Category Kawasaki UTV  

View File 1993-2000 Kawasaki Mule 2510 2520 Service Manual 1993-2000 Kawasaki Mule 2510 2520 Service Manual Submitter Mech Submitted 10/02/2023 Category Kawasaki UTV  

Yeah adjusting the idle mixture is the first thing to try now. That initial setting is just a ball park figure to get them running. If you can't get over the flat spot by adjusting the idle the next step would be to try moving the slide needle. They are quite sensitive to the air-cleaner though, and I've cured some that had a slight hesitation by either cleaning the filter, or drying them if they are over oiled, and in other cases , by cleaning them and oiling them.

Oh thanks, sorry about that. I thought it had saved as PDF.

Good stuff.. So if it doesn't have the vacuum hose to the fuel tap either it's running on the prime position of the tap, or the tap has been changed to a manual tap. If it's still got the old vacuum controlled tap, there is no off position. They only have main and reserve, both controlled by vacuum, and a prime position to get them going after they have run out of fuel.

This is what my book shows for the 2000-2002, but the older models in the book are the same.. Just two wires. output.ps The book shows a four wire switch up to 1995...

The ohm readings are suggesting there is a break in one of the three windings. The three windings are arranged as in the attached diagram, and the one good reading is across/through the two windings that aren't broken. Going from the end of either of the two good windings, to the third winding which is broken, gives the OL ohms reading. The one good voltage is coming out of/through the two good windings, and the two bad voltages are when it's trying to get through the break in the third winding, which must have it's ends touching, or close enough, to let a tiny amount of voltage jump through when it gets a high enough voltage. The ohm gauge doesn't have enough voltage to jump the gap where the break is. I'd check the wires at their ends where they attach to the terminals because that's a common place for wires to break, but apart from that I'd say the stator is bad. 1990-Bigbear-350.pdf

The headlights are only 30 watts each, so with a tail-light and intermittent loads like neutral lights they only require about 70 watts, and the battery is a 15 Ah and we generally charge batteries at about ten to twenty percent of their Ah rating, so the charging might only be about 1.4 to 2.8 amps.. So the 5 amps for lights and the charging will only be requiring about 7 amps, and that is very likely all the charging puts out. I'd expect the battery to be going flat even with the engine going and revving while you are using the winch. Those resistance figures though, which I presume were with the stator unplugged, are all wrong so it looks like the stator is crook. If the regulator was plugged in while you were doing the tests it may be the regulator malfunctioning still.

It might have a bad diode in the regulator. I'd check for any Ac on the battery with the engine running.

Just read back and I see the fuel pump is going right. I see the old plug was black, so one of either the pump or tap might be letting fuel into their vacuum hose. Every time I've seen a suzuki LT regulator playing up the symptoms have been that it gets to a certain rev and then just sits there stuttering and missing like it's getting a rev limiter on a fuel injected car.. like the ignition switch is being turned on and off a hundred times a minute.. but the engine keeps running forever.. you can drive them around up till that rev, and then just keep driving at full revs with it missing like mad.. They don't die right off and stop running. A black plug is either because of too richer mixture or burning oil, or there's an electrical miss. If it's got an ignition fault then it's likely to backfire in the exhaust because there's unburnt fuel in there from the cycles when there was no spark. If it's just getting too much fuel it's less likely to do that, it will probably blow black smoke and run rough but keep pulling more or less ok. If it starts popping back through the carb when you open the throttle past a certain place, it's nearly always because of a lean mixture. I'd probably be able to tell what system is playing up by riding it and testing things as I rode it. Sometimes a symptom is related to the temperature and is worse hot, sometimes they are related to the throttle and always occur at pretty much the same throttle position, sometimes they are related to load on the engine and the throttle seems like the thing except they don't play up at that throttle setting unless the engine is under a load, sometimes they play up as soon as the load comes on, and sometimes it takes a short time as the carb empties or some electrical part gets hot, and sometimes things recover as soon as you back off slightly, and sometimes they recover only after a time and after you've backed right off.. It's important to look at the symptoms, and the circumstances of an occurrence when we are trying to diagnose things. I always try, once I've formed an impression about what the problem is, to subject the bike to that particular condition while changing the other conditions.. So we can subject an engine to a heavy load by opening the throttle a lot, or by going up a steep hill with a lot less throttle.. We can ride it till it starts to falter and then back off the throttle very slightly and see if it recovers straight away, or whether it takes a few seconds, and we can back off a lot and see if it recovers quicker.. We can ride it until it starts to falter and then let the throttle off but not let the revs drop and see if that cures it, or we can let the revs drop while keeping the throttle held at the same position by starting up a hill. In the case of the regulators playing up, that last test is pretty conclusive. The regulators are really rev dependent once the battery is charged. They will start missing at a certain rev and then just keep on limiting to that rev no matter how much or how little throttle or load is on the engine.. they just rev limit pretty much.. Ride it and think about what happening, what's changing that causes the problem to start manifesting, what things make no difference. It does sound like a fuel problem to me, and having those O rings broken could definitely be the problem. Perhaps you could drive it now with just one screw in it.. As for getting the broken screw out, did it break off flush with the aluminium or with a bit proud ? Perhaps it can be gripped with a good pair of pliers. If not it needs drilling probably. I'd use a egg-beater drill if I was doing it and I'd turn it slowly and I'd change direction and direct the drill straight down the center. If you start with a very tiny drill, and it gets slightly off course, you can correct by using a slightly bigger drill aimed at an angle to drill to the bottom of that first small drilling..Then go back to the tiny drill again. If the screw is a four mill it should be easy to get out. And just to clarify for me.. That carb is a diaphragm carb isn't it ?

Every parts place I look up that bike in though shows a carb that doesn't have that particular carb for your bike.. Does that carb have a vacuum fitting for the fuel pump ? And for the fuel tap ? Have you checked the fuel tap and fuel pump are working and not letting either air or fuel get into their vacuum hoses ?

I'd got my carb models muddled up there Digg.. Not all carbs have it as I was describing.