Mech

Yeah it makes good sense. Well done. You need the manual alright. I think you only need ten posts to download it. I see some prat just spammed the whole board to get his numbers up.. Keep posting and you'll get there. I'd download it and post the wiring diagram but you will probably need to read it as well so I'll eave it to you to get. Once you've got it if you are having trouble yell out and I'll take a look at it and might be able to help with some suggestions.

Yeah I'm afraid I don't have one.. You're up to three posts though.. Is the 4x4 shift electric on that ? If it's not then the stuck in 4x4 might be mechanical.. binding up in the drive line. Have you tried backing up and rocking the bike and things while you are trying to get it out of 4x4 ?

So it's a grizzly ?

Sure will Jeff.. Hope the necks better and you get out hunting somehow.. We gotta have fun !

This is what's shown for your year.. Later model ones have a hose coming off the front of the air-box and it goes to the head and to atmosphere.. output.pdf

The wiring looks like a mishap waiting to happen ... He should spent two bucks on a roll of electrical tape.

To get thin gaskets and diaphragms unstuck I use a thick (0.024") feeler gauge I've beveled/sharpened all around the end of.. Don't often damage things once it's under there and just gently working sideways.. Things are quiet in here.. It's spring here and that's why I haven't been in much, but I thought it would be repair time over there.

Yeah I don't like my vacuum tap, though I've not had any problems, they do seem to work mysteriously well given the pathetic little spring closing the fuel off. Perhaps the fuel helps keep it closed.. Hmmm

Oh ok.. Glad I suggested it then..

The lost fuel didn't end up in the sump did it ? I suppose you've looked there..

Pulling the taps apart and cleaning the rubber washer hard with a cloth to get the rust and crud off it and then lubing it with vaseline makes an incredible difference.

Ha. Yeah and it's a bit ugly.. If you drive into water the air in everywhere, like the diffs and the engine and the wheel bearings, all contracts, and sucks a hell of a lot of water in. Better to just find a way around the water if it's that deep.

I like the look and sound of this "hunt club".. That's what the boys need alright !

It's easier to lay a plank of wood on blocks alongside the wheels and measure from that.

It's generally the diff lock that makes things hard to steer. If the tyres and wheel alignment are in good order then being in four wheel drive doesn't effect the steering much. Are the tyres all worn evenly ? Have you tried backing up and going forwards again with four wheel and diff lock turned off to unload any binding in the four wheel drive ? That might get it out of four wheel or diff lock mode. You might need to go back several feet and forwards again several feet, and it's best to blip the throttle and then let it off suddenly as you are doing it. If none of that helps I'd jack the front end up and check by hand if the diff lock is on, and whether the four wheel drive is engaged, and start diagnosing it from there...

They wouldn't agree with that Gw.. They know different stuff, which I don't, so they think they know more.. haha. I think it's really because they think I can do anything, and don't really need their help.. Not even when it's lifting something heavy !

Sorry to hear about that Ej, the health issues that is. Take care, rest up for a while, perhaps you will feel like having another look at it if you feel better.. Perhaps the son can figure why the start isn't happening now, either for you or for himself.. If he's anything like my two he will be keen as for himself but a reluctant participant for "the old man". Either way, I admire your determination doing all you have with chronic pain.. Hope to see you back feeling better one day.

Sounds like a wire with bad/worn insulation. First thing I'd do would be to wriggle all the wires bit by bit with the engine running to see where the short might be, then I'd inspect the wiring for worn insulation. Up around where the wires move when the steering moves is a common place for a lot of bikes.

Good stuff.

Cant find any adjustment instructions, but if there is an adjustment I'd think it would be by undoing nut #29 and perhaps the bolt/shaft in it might be slotted.. I'd look there and if the shaft #29 is on is slotted I'd have a play around if it was me.

Bit late perhaps... output.pdf

You'll get that bearing and sleeve off with a three legged puller.

The service manual says the pinion bearing retainer is left hand threads(but I suppose you already know that), and that the pinion shaft can be tapped out with a soft mallet. Then you can use a puller or a press to remove the inner bearing and the sleeve off the shaft at the same time. To get the outer race of the inner bearing out of the housing they say to heat the housing to 150C and use a suitable punch to remove it. It looks in the diagram that they are using a wedge ended punch to wedge the bearing outer out, but I'd probably try heating the housing then banging the housing down on a big block of wood on a concrete floor hoping it would drop out.

Yeah that might be a good idea.. A bit of water absorbed into the fuel can make injectors sticky..

Ain't kids great.. Mine two sons think that what's mine is theirs.. And they have got my arc welder too, along with a lot of other stuff.. But I love them and let it happen. Anything to help them along.