Mech

Check the engine isn't getting fuel into the sump. The carb float needle may be leaking, allowing fuel into the sump.. That can cause the oil blowing out, and likely the erratic running as it warms up too.

Actually.. Second reading. You say it has the right peak coil voltage.. and the coil's resistances are correct.. but there's no spark.. So either the coil, the spark-plug, or the lead, have a short or an open circuit.. Have you cleared the trouble codes ? I haven't read the manual but those might be historical codes.. They might have been set by you working on it, or some intermittent thing that you've now fixed.

I'd be suspecting and inspecting all the power supplies and all the earths to the ecm and everywhere else at all. The earth wires particularly. The old earth wire.. was that melted off insulation or rat eaten insulation ?

Yup. Just as you say. Assemble it with whatever shims you have and then check and calculate what difference you need(if any), and then go from there. These days things are made so accurately that it's quite possible that the original shims which were chosen for that case will be right again.

Oh ok, didn't think it would be 4mm.. 4mm are fairly common. They often hold the plastics onto the dash/speedo.

Definitely look for any electrical problem right around the carb area if it does seem likely to be electrical.. Probably/possibly bumped some chafed wire while working on the carb. As Gw says, they mostly stumble and carry on but not till they get moving, and they don't normally die right out..

Just checked and laptop uses 2.8mm flat headed screws.. Their heads are flat top and under and only 0.8 thick..Next size up is 3.2 but I think that looks too big.

Yeah pretty unusual little screw I suspect. Flat head and soft metal too so they can be splayed on the back to prevent it falling out and going into the engine. If the shaft's slotted so the plate goes in the shaft they don't need much, some soft rivet would do. If it has a flat with the washer against needs to be tighter. Computers and laptops have lots of small screws and some of them are quite soft.. Perhaps go see a comp tech and rummage through his old bits or screw collection. I have a small jar of computer screws. If I had one I'd post a few over to you..

If it died right out, as soon as the bike moved, then I'd be suspecting an electrical problem.. But I'd probably try adjusting/checking the idle mixture setting first in case it is that simple.. I wouldn't pull a carb off though till I'd discounted the electrical problem as a cause. Which could be done by attaching a timing light and watching the flash as you tried to move forwards. If the flashing stopped before the engine stopped rotating, then it is an electrical problem.

Actually.. Making my diagrams bigger and I can't be sure it is white/brown, it could be white/blue..

And looking in a different manual I see there's a white/brown going to the ECM.. The photo you posted was blurry and I couldn't see the colour labels so I looked in some other manuals I have. If your diagram doesn't have any white/brown wires shown you might have the wrong manual.

I see there's a white/brown wire shown as part of the transfer selection switch..

That big fat brown/white wire ? What's that writing on it say ? It looks mighty big.. Could it be a winch wire or something aftermarket ? Is it in?part of the original bike wiring ? You might have to use your eyes to find the other end, then use a multimeter/ohm meter to confirm it's the wire by testing from end to end for continuity.

I'm amazed a 300 could break that !

And, if when trying to change manually, you push a shift button, if you can feel the electric shift trying to assist the lever.. check the oil level and pressure.

I had a read through the manual and it says to do the check for trouble codes, and then, if the gearbox position sensor is indicated as crook, (which they say normally causes it to flash all five gear position lights simultaneously, not in sequence as you are describing), take the sensor off and move the sensor inside with your finger, and the dash should scroll through the five speeds.. So the test for the position sensor is simple and it may pay to go straight to that test. Check the plug is on and perhaps pull it off and try it back on before doing anything else in case there's a bad connection. If moving the sensor with your finger doesn't make the dash change through the gears then the sensor is crook.. I'd do that but then get the trouble codes as well before rushing off for a new sensor.. It may be wiring and not actually the sensor.. I'm a mechanic and have to be sure what I do and what I fit are right.. At this stage though, it doesn't mention anything else causing all the position lights to cycle.. A bad dash could perhaps do it though, or a bad computer.. Possibly.. I'll keep reading. Oh.. It also says to try shifting with the manual lever to check the actual box is ok.. I presume you have tried that ?

You need the manual and follow the procedure for diagnosing it, starting with checking for stored trouble codes. Does that have a model number, something like 7416 ?

It doesn't take much to cause what Mga is describing.. needing to rock the bike to get it out of gear. Having new tyres one end and half worn on the other end can do it, even having unevenly/incorrectly inflated tyres can do it. I've "fixed" people's 4x4 trucks that were "stuck in four wheel drive", by blipping the throttle in gear just before I slipped them out of gear.

Did you get this sorted ?

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Aluminium expands at three times the rate of steel when it's heated.

It's the most economical sealer out there, as well as being multi use. It's not as hard as the proper loctite for nuts, but it works on non-citical stuff. It doesn't make a mess like silicon either and doesn't block pick-up sieves or small holes.. The excess can be wiped off the outsides of cases with a rag and inside the excess just dissolves into the oil without doing any harm to anything. I've even used it, reluctantly, on auto transmissions which have heaps of very sensitive shuttle valves in them, and it doesn't even make them sticky.. which is amazing !

If it's a cable operated choke I'd check the plunger is going right back in..

I use multi purpose Loctite Master Gasket for that, locking nuts and sealing gaskets or gasketless joins.. Absolutely amazing stuff. I highly recommend it.

Nah me neither but someone wanted the manual..Someone that had only done 35 Km and was having troubles already..

Good one. Glad to hear it's all come out right. There's an oil filter on it you should probably change. They don't cost much. They don't need changing every oil change but it's a good idea to change things like it when you first get a new machine and then you know when it was done.