Mech

Damn right Geezer. I'm always amazed how many people present a long list of parts they have replaced to try and fix a problem, but they haven't checked for broken wires or bad connections.. If your problem comes back you better check all the connections one at a time, trying the bike for a day or two to make sure which connection it is.. haha.. I hate it when I inadvertently fix the problem but don't know what it was I'd done.

That kit is for both sides and I only see housing seals in the kit. I'm not sure what small seal you are meaning. The O ring I'm mentioning is to stop water getting under the hub nut and making it's way along the cv shaft and into the bearing housing. Apart from keeping water out of the housing, it stops the shaft rusting into the hub. It says the bearings are OEM which stands for original equipment manufacturer, so they should be from the honda parts department. They aren't in honda parts packaging though so I'd be a bit dubious about that. Even more suspect is that the enlarged pictures of the bearings don't seem to have any bearing number stamped into them as I'd suspect. Good makes, like timken, skf, nsk, koyo, always have the bearing number stamped into one edge. Bearings do vary a lot and you can buy bearings that range in price by a ratio of three to one, and they have the quality to match.

If the small seal is an O ring it might be for under the nut that holds the hub onto the shaft. You should get a service manual and it will show all the parts and explain what's involved.

Home-schooling is great Gw. Home schooled kids all seem to be motivated, have a lot of interests and be really competent/practical. I'd recommend home-schooling to anyone. It's easy to do a better with just a couple of kids, than a school teacher does with thirty. I've got several school teacher friends, and had a mother in law that was an ex teacher, and they all agree.

As Gw says, a jumper pack or jumper leads from a bigger(car) battery, or even just attaching a battery charger while you're working on it will help by charging between attempts at starting. If you use jumper leads off a car that's idling it keeps the voltage up near 14.5 volts and that makes them crank over faster, and sometimes when things are hard to start but nearly going, that helps a lot. It's better for your starter motor too to have high voltage. Low volts means it needs more amps, which is the current, and it's the slow turning and heavy current that over-heats them.

Yeah experience counts huh.. Even something as simple as undoing a screw aye.. You'd know how we have to press hard and twist at the same time.. Some beginners don't have the technique right and round things off.. Everything's like that.. We learn the techniques. When my sons were homeschooling, and were well experienced in the workshop, they used to go to help their mates work on bikes and show them how to do things, and the elder son did some amazing writing work describing the problems beginners have, and what the correct techniques was. It opened my eyes. I tried to get him to submit to motor-bike magazines because he'd done a whole series about using screw-drivers, spanners, hammers, tightening and loosening, inspecting components for wear and damage.. all sorts of stuff, describing the problem, giving instances, what the problem was caused by and how to prevent it. I'd trained apprentices but his writing really drilled down into it.. It was very good.

Well I can suggest some more things if you want.. The first thing would be take the carb off and strip it and clean it and check it's float height. Even though it's new it might still have a problem. If you try spraying some engine start in and it fires a bit it would suggest the fuel mix is not right. They can get blocked exhausts, and the reed valves can get dust and stuff jammed under them right near where the reed attaches and bends so they don't close properly. Both those things are fairly easy to check. They can get leaking crank seals. The one into the gearbox is hard to do but if it leaks you get gearbox oil in the mix and so it's kinda obvious, but the flywheel side lets air in which is more common and that one is generally easy to change. Another thing that happens and gives symptoms like this is the barrel distorts right where the bypass ports are. Once the barrels off you put a ring in the bore and push it down bit by bit holding the barrel up to the light looking for light between barrel and ring. They look good till you get to the bypass ports sometimes and then you start to see light .. That ring leak there plays havoc with the starting, and running to a degree. It really effects starting though. And you have actually pulled the flywheel off and checked the key isn't half sheared haven't you ?

Oh yeah that's because it had sprung open fitting it on the shaft, but that's easy, you can get at it doing the fitting. I think most people have trouble dismantling.. And it occurred to me I should mention.. It's best to bump the lever with your hand, it needs the weight and force of your arm. Hitting the lever with a hammer, big or small, doesn't seem to work as good as a firm bump with your hand. You put a little pressure on the lever with one hand, then bump it. Car ones fit in the same way.. I've done scores of them, maybe hundreds.

Getting them out, and getting the axle out of the cv, is all about technique. There's a taper to guide the wire clip into the shaft when it compresses, but the clip needs to be central before you try to get the clip to compress, and then it needs a sharp bump to compress the clip. Do it right and they pop out easy.

Amen to that alright.. That's a total rip-off !

Thanks Gw. Parts 14 and e are both wire clips, with a round cross section..

The axle fit's into the center of the cv in the same way, a wire clip that fits into the axle and springs out half into the cv center. To get the cv off you pull gently on the cv, then give the cv outer a sharp tap, with a copper hammer.. The outer of the cv is soft and if you hit it with a steel hammer you will probably damage it. Some damage can be cleaned up with a file. If the axle doesn't want to come out it's possibly because the wire clip is off to one side and needs centering in the taper that's inside the cv inner. You pull very lightly on the shaft while turning it and the cv, done right the clip will centralise itself and then come out after you've increased the pull and given it a sharp tap.. with the copper hammer. In the case of the cv into the diff and the axle into the cv, if you bash it too hard without the clip being centralised in the taper they spring out into, you risk catching the wire clip between the groove it's in and the outer fitting, then the wire tries to get cut and doesn't want to go into the groove in the shaft and it turns into a matter of brute force and damage. If they don't pop out easy, rotate them a bit then keep rotating as you start to pull them and the wire clip will line up into the taper that's going to compress it into the shaft, then a smart bump will compress the clip and it comes out smoothly. Thank you Gw..

Every one I've seen has had a wire spring clip that expands out in a groove in the cv inner end and half engages inside the diff. You give them a sharp bump out with a lever and the wire spring compresses into the groove in the cv and it slides out. If you lever slowly they seem to jamb and not come out. You get a big screwdriver or lever in behind them though and give it a sharp bump with the palm of your hand and they pop right out out. Some it's hard to get the lever right behind the cv because the inner face is tapered and the lever doesn't grip. On those ones you put the lever in and jamb it as hard behind the taper as hard as you can and start levering hard, then use an eight ounce hammer to tap the opposite side of the cv housing in a sort of outwards direction as much as possible and they come out. If you look in the manual it will say if there is something that needs undoing, but if it says to use a slide puller or lever then it's as I say. If you have real trouble, and the rubber boots are already buggered, you can fasten a chain around the outer cv and use a big weight on the other end of the chain as a slide hammer/bumper, but that risks damaging the wire clip or circlip that's attaching the outer cv to the shaft. It's better to bump them out with a lever. If neither of those ways work, you can undo the clips holding the rubber boot at either end, slide the boot along the shaft, then there might be a circlip that can be compressed with long nosed pliers in near where the shaft meets the cv center part. The manual will say if it's like that though, and it's rare for a quad axle. Some cars are like it though. That thing will be a bump out job I'm sure. Check the manual. If it's bump out, do it just as I've described.. A bit of leverage then a sharp bump with the palm of your hand, or lever then tap with a hammer. It's a technique that needs mastering.

Thanks Gw. It's good to discuss things other than quads sometimes.. haha. And yeah, I can imagine the attachment. I never had that, but I can imagine, and I see it with the lads. I would love to live near the sea again. I used to live at the coast, right by the beach, and on a boat for three years solid and many many weeks at a time on them before that. I love the smell and the sound and the horizon.. I actually avoid the beach these days because it tugs so on my heart when I have to leave. And family names, my sister married and took another, my brother had no kids, my two sons only have one son between them so far, so our name only hangs on in this line by the thinnest of threads. But, It was Gran's maiden name that has the links to the place, and blood is blood, and total strangers have approached me to introduce themselves and tell me how they knew or were friends with Gran or Dad. The connection remains whatever the name.

Years ago when I was approaching retirement age and was getting too old for hard work and maintaining the place like it should be kept I used to complain to my sons that I was getting too old. They were around one night having a few beers and I was complaining about my sore back or something and one of them reckoned that I should sell it and I could buy a nice little place down the coast and have a boat and go fishing and stuff. I said, yeah but if I was living down there in this new house, and you guys came to visit, it wouldn't feel like you were coming home to visit, now would it ? You should have seen the look on both their faces at the idea that their home, where they had been bought up and roamed the hills and got up to mischief and ridden bikes and all the rest, wouldn't be here for them anymore.. They both looked at one other and looked so damn sad it made me laugh.. So I said, and so that's why I won't be selling it. They both got big grins because they knew exactly what I'd seen, and what I was talking about. And not many years later they both came home to start building and have families of their own. It's nice to have that continuity.. It gives people roots. Roots give them history and reputation to live up to.. As it had happened, when I had moved two-hundred miles to this area as a young man, I'd found out completely by chance, or perhaps it was destiny, that I was within about five miles of my family roots going back generations. I like that, and the sons like it too. The grand kids are sixth generation living around here now and I know all the old properties and old houses and house sites going back about a hundred and sixty years. There are old families around here that knew my family going right back to those days. There were until just a few years ago old people that knew and remembered my grand-mother and father. It's sort of one of the reasons probably that I'd always felt I had a reputation to keep up. The sons feel the same way. The grand-kids probably will too. Enjoy your Dad's place. Keep it if you can.

Oh nice mate that you can keep the family place. Nice for your lot to visit huh ? Good memories. Nice you kept the bike too.. I don't know that I know exactly, but I've seen the symptoms before. And yeah, I've seen plenty that make that horrible noise, including my own(suzukis) when they have had a bad or slightly flat battery. And yeah, you think they aren't going to go they're so slow, then woomf and they start.. And after a run they just start up quick as often. It's always annoying though when we think the battery's getting old, but it still works sortta.

Lots of bikes go clunk clunk.. I think it's possibly the spag clutch.. just an impression though. They can be like it for years without causing problems, but a slightly flat battery makes the noise louder. I've seen in the manual that it warns you that cdi won't produce a spark below 430 revs.. I think it was 430, but they do warn you it needs some minimum revs or it won't go.. so that might explain why it won't go if it doesn't on the first attempt.. It either floods or gets a bit slow cranking. I'd try jumping it and see if it stops the clunk and makes it start better.. just for a test. That's an old system too and it's likely that if the pickup coil is too close to the flywheel it may give too much ignition advance. That would make the clunk worse.

Both B1 and B2 are supplying power to the circuits so they must surely both go the the start solenoids live big terminal, the one that's connected to the battery. I think the labels B1 and B2 are just for referencing them in the text parts of the wiring trouble shooting sections. I don't think they attach to different solenoid terminals. If it was as you are suspecting there then the B2 would only have power when the starter was being energised.. as far as I can see.. but.. I have read in some polaris manuals that the power goes out to components and then earths to make them operate.. It might pay to read the text relating to the start circuit and motor.. If the starter was an insulated unit, then it could be like that.. not that I've ever seen anything with a fully insulated starter though.. but hey.. I don't work on polaris.. haha. Polaris wiring diagrams are always hard to trace, and those "splice" are a worry. I always suspect they will be crimped and prone to bad connections.. In that service manual there should be broken down diagrams for the various circuits so we can just look at one part of it at a time, and it should explain where the various splices and earths are on the bike.. But in my linux pdf reader it doesn't let me expand the wiring diagrams. If you are still having trouble later I'll reluctantly restart in windows and see if I can open them. I'm reluctant though because I haven't used windows in months and it will download a heap of updates and then not want to close for literally hours..

Glad you found it. It had to be some major component. Wire type fusible links are availiable, and so are fuse type fusible links(for heavy currents).

Ok, I take that back. I downloaded the manual and this thing doesn't have a PCM, it's a really basic system. It has separate fuses or circuit breakers for various circuits, and it's not likely to have developed problems in all the circuits, or blown all the fuses, at once. I'd be checking the battery terminals, the join where the battery leads crimp or solder into the battery terminals, and the earths. If all of those prove to be good and making solid contact I'd disconnect the power and earth cables(because some models feed power out then earth the circuits to operate things), and I'd use either a battery and test light, or my DMM on it's continuity setting, and feed the buzzer/light power into the various fuses and test at various earths or power points for continuity.. . The manual says the fuses are under the dash.

On some polaris there's a thing called the power control module(pcm), or something like that, and it has circuit breakers in it, and it switches the fan and various other things and I think serves as the voltage regulator on some models.

Lol.. Surely they can find somewhere else to flaunt themselves.. Too funny.. Or desperate !

Hell yeah Beast.. That's a bit rough having to drill your own head bolt holes.. haha.

You might find a manufacturers tag somewhere on the frame that says who it was made by, and it might have some numbers indicating the model. The tags are sometimes on the steering head.

Even if you identify the year and model it's likely you won't be able to get a service manual for it anyway. The body work will be held on by bolts or clips or a combination of the two, and likely some tags that slot into rubber grommets..