Mech

Oh ok. So a drive shaft, except a drive shaft that does six times the usual drive shaft revs, and spins the whole time.. Keep your legs away from it. Haha.. Just kidding. I'm sure it's very safe; Honda made it. You might get bits for those couplings. They use similar in other things. Over here I'd contact a transmission co, some one that did belts, chains, reduction boxes, driveshafts and parts.. industrial transmission.. for in factories, and auto. Honda might have brought them in like they do with carbs.

0.001-0.003 for inlet, 0.003-0.005 for exhaust. Cold.

Gw's got an important point here.. Something we see quite often in here with the quads is that someone replaces a carb because they have a problem, but then the new carb doesn't stop the problem, and so they assume the problem isn't with the fuel mixture. They they go off on a tangent assuming it must be electrical or compression etc. Replacement carbs do quite often run badly because they aren't tuned for the engine they are going one. So then you need to go through a tuning and adjusting process to check whether it is the new carb not tuned, or a lack of compression, blocked exhaust or bad spark problem. It is generally best (simplest) to clean the carb that came or had been running well on the bike. Let us know if the bike doesn't run well Don. Apart from the idle mixture it may need some other adjustments.

Ok. Hope that gets it running good. You'll probably need to adjust the new carb's idle mixture once it's warm.

So a protective cover over the shaft ? With a rusty looking UJ ? Oh no.. That brown bit's the rusty metal from the hole... Maybe. Or not.

Ha.. You'll get there. What is that we're looking at ?

Oh ok. I'd never clicked to that.. Well done. They do have other differences though too.. like body, cdi, carb etc.

Look at the supplement's index, that tells you what the differences are straight away. If the supplement doesn't mention something, then it's the same as the base model.

That one intermittent miss then going straight back to a steady idle again, that's a lean idle mixture. You could just try adjusting the idle mixture which might fix the misfire, but if it can't be coaxed to rev up, it probably has dirt in the carb, so I'd just pull the whole carb off, strip it entirely and clean every jet and drilling, check the float height then put it back on checking there are no splits or leaks in/at the manifold.

Most bikes they use the gear shift lever to disengage the plate clutch during gear shifts to save the gears if the centrifugal clutch is locked up, but if reverse doesn't use the shift lever to move into reverse then that shift is entirely dependent on the centrifugal being unlocked to prevent graunching. I'd check the idle speed. If this bike does use the foot shift lever for reverse then yup, adjust the clutch. Assuming that is the sort of problem it's having.. If it's just hard to move the lever/knob or some such, then check the interlock adjustment, and all the shift mechanism adjustments.

Get the manual, it describes the differences from the base model and year in the supplement at the back. There are heaps of minor differences, cdi, carbs, body panels, chain or shaft drive.. Those are some I've noticed, there might be more.

Well it sounds like a good mod then. It's a wonder honda hadn't done that... bolt in battery tray. If they had, they'd have nice captive or welded in nuts so you just use a socket and extension to whip it out simple as.. Just saying...

Gw's onto it !

Yeah taking the body work off will help a lot. The problem with a gauge is that they will show full voltage even if there's a real bad connection sometimes, and the voltage will only drop once the electrical load comes on. If you look up "voltage drop test" it will explain the proper way to use a gauge to find bad connections. It's easier to just use a test light with a regular old hot wire bulb in it because that will put a small load on the circuit and if there's a bad connection the light will be dull. If the tesla light has an led or something that doesn't draw a bit of a load it might not show up bad connections.

I thought that the ultra whatever cleaner you had did a pretty good job of cleaning things. I was very impressed by some before and after photos.

I haven't seen a set like that Gw.. Without ridges they would be better than a tip cleaner, and better than some scratchy bit of wire brush bristle(which a lot of people like to use), but I'd suspect they would have trouble getting varnish/build-up off. Do they go down small enough to do really small jets on bikes ? I've seen cleaners advertised for jets but they never did small jets, let alone the tiny holes in the emulsion tubes. I've been using wood for.. Err.. something like fifty years.. haha.. and it's always worked fine.

Those striped wires on that reg that look like yellow are presumably white, and their description would be W/r and w/l, l being what they use for blue. That being the case, I think you have got the 1987 230.. R/w mean a red wire with a white stripe, W/r means a white wire with a red stripe. The carb, if it's original, will have the Id number shown in that other pdf.. Something like 22A00, 18A00, 18A01 or 25C00. I would trust the regulator wiring more than the carb id though because carbs are easy to change, but the wiring isn't.

You need to get a service manual which will have a wiring diagram in it, and you need to use a test light to check wih the diagram that the electricity is getting through the wires to the places it's meant to be going. There's every chance that there is a broken wire or a bad connection in the wiring, and not some electrical component. Wires mostly break right where they go into the metal terminal on the end of the wire, and they often break inside the insulation with no visible evidence, but if you wriggle the wire gently it will feel too floppy because there's nothing but plastic holding it. The other problem they can get is dirty connection where the wire's crimped into the metal terminal. Some wiring looms also have wires joined internally, inside the taped up loom, and some of those connections are crimped and can get bad connections. Those you just have to deduce are bad connections by noticing there is power on one side of the connection and not the other side. Connections in wires are shown as a black dot where the wires cross in the diagram. Wires that cross without a dot aren't connected. You need to start by checking the earth wires are connected and making contact, then start at the battery and follow the wiring diagram to the switch and reg etc checking there is power as there should be. Use a test light because highly sensitive electrical gauges can deceive you. If you have any trouble reading the wiring diagram let us know and I'll explain it to you.

Or... output.pdf

Have a look at this and see which regulator you have... output.pdf

Yeah and they are hardened and those ridges start new off being quite abrasive. Wood everyone.. If it gets stuck in the jet it only needs a bit of a charing and it will come out again.. no harm done. And it gets them cleaner than any bit of wire will..

Ha.. hard case. "They do welding tips.. they must be able to do carb jets too."..

Yes they change carbs, and the cdi are different too. Just those two alone should narrow it down. Then if you have it apart, they change valve sizes and gears and all sorts of stuff.. Bloody kids huh.. Happily mine don't/didn't (they're grown now) nick my bikes. They used to nick my pot before they figured how to grow it themselves, but never anything else.. That I'm aware of ! And, little buggers they are, they'd have told me by now some time over a "few" drinks.. and laughed about it. Also, on a lot of old bikes they used to rivet an aluminium plate to the steering head with Id on it.. I suppose that's gone..

A few more posts and you'll be able to download the manual. The manual I've got does all the years 85-90 and all the models for 230 and 250 of the same base model, so if the one in here doesn't seem to cover your bike yell out. There are 230E, 230G and 230S. The manual has all the carb details etc for the different models. You should be able to figure it exactly, especially so if you are used to checking parts out.

Er matey.. Those are welding tip cleaners, and they do ream holes out. I'm pretty sure. Unless you are sure they are aluminium I wouldn't use them for jets. The wood's the best.. Guarantee it. Try it. I've blown and given things a quick clean before with the wood, then because the hole looked a bit fuzzy or out of round I've reamed it some more (with wood), and the holes come clean and gain diameter that you can see sometimes. Varnish is quite hard..