Mech

Are you sure the choke plunger's going right back ? Twisted cable maybe.

It certainly sounds like a dragging clutch Chris. It should be better with less freeplay in the handlebar lever.. If you let the lever off and pull the cable it should have about 1/4 inch play i reckon. You need to check the cable isn't snagging inside with broken strands of wire. If you give the adjuster a lot of slack, the outer should be able to slide the range of it's travel in operation, so perhaps 3/4 inch. If all that's good and the adjustment has been put back to minimum slack, and the clutch drags so it's hard to find neutral, then it's time to inspect the clutch. If you get a manual it should show you an exploded view of the clutch. The shaft that operates the clutch works as a cam and only has a very limited travel. Once the clutch plates wear beyond a certain point the cam has trouble operating correctly. New plates will put it back within it's designed travel range.

Well if it's started since you fitted a new air inlet pipe, it sounds like the aircleaner or inlet piping has a blockage.

That tool's made from bits out of an old printer.. It's probably a good idea to strip the carby again and replace the rubber O rings on the float needle's seat and the main jet holder. Blow through every drilling to check they are clean and so you know where they go. Blow all the jets out, check the float levels right. Check the diaphragm's not torn. Check the rubber inlet manifold isn't torn. Check all the rubber hoses are on the right places. Then the standard setting for the idle mixture as per the manual should get it to go, then you adjust the idle mixture and it should respond. When you say "outlet tube", do you mean the outlet of the carb ? So the rubber fitting connecting the carb to the engine ? That's called an inlet manifold.

Well.. If you pull it to bits you will be able to see for sure where it goes.. Try blowing up it..

The breather line Dave was mentioning will just be a rubber hose pushed onto the brass pipe that would be in that hole normally. That breather vents the float chamber and serves as an overflow for fuel if the float needle sticks or gets leaned over too far or some such thing. On most bikes the hose just dangles down a few inches to drain the petrol under the bike, rather than it sitting on the crankcases.

Desperate guy ! Don't you have snow to shovel or something ? Hey look... over there. It's Freedom. . . .You could talk to him.

My trick to getting carbies into the manifold and air ducting is to use a very long nosed pair of pliers with bent nose. I keep them closed but use them to shoehorn the rubbers on from below to top. You get the carby in as far as possible, then insert the pliers at the side and push them down and under to slip the rubber on there, and get the carby inside it, then work the pliers up and around the side pulling the rubber out slightly.

If you go to an online parts place and check details, such as carby or headlights or bodywork, you can figure out exactly what market and version you have. Carbies vary from market to market.

It's definitely best to diagnose before fitting parts. Adjusting the carby on suzukis has always been difficult, and I've tried three different tools to do the job. I've got a good one now.. Kiwi engineering..

Morning Chris. Yes I'm in N.Z.. And yes that's the clutch basket he's holding in his hands, which is the bit I was saying might need the wear taking out of. The steel plates can be checked for flatness and obvious wear. The friction plates you replace. Both the hub and the basket the plates fit into, need to be checked for wear where the plates press. The basket's normally the worse and easiest cleaned up with a fine file. The new clutch plates must be soaked in oil before they get fitted. I'm pretty sure it will be your clutch that's the problem. I don't really think the wrong grade oil will often be a problem to a clutch. Wet clutches can run in a lot of oil, thick or thin, and they can operate nearly dry. Having the wrong grade might make the clutch drag slightly when it's cold, but it should come right when it warms up.

Look for an id plate or stamped numbers around the steering head.

A real common problem with those is the starter brushes. They wear out and they get stuck sometimes/often. The starter relay has two windings to operate the plunger that closes the contacts. One set of windings earths internally in the relay, and the other set of windings earth through the starter. If the starter brushes are not making good contact the starter relay doesn't get enough power through both sets of windings to pull the plunger and close the contacts. Then you get a click. I'd use a jumper lead straight to the starter's terminal, or, now you have the body off, straight to the starter lead going to the starter. Put another jumper to an earth and the starter motor should spin. If it doesn't spin, or if it struggles to turn, then it needs pulling out and stripping and a new set of brushes. Easy job. The new brushes come with a new mounting plate and springs and all ready to slip in.

Well you need to know the fuel is fresh. Does it have compression ? It would be a good idea to recheck the carby's clean and adjusted right. The idle mixture should change with a half turn of the screw, if it was doing nothing it sounds like it's jet or air bleed's blocked. There will be a workshop manual somewhere, probably in the downloads on this site. That will show you how to check the float level. When you have the carby out, check the connection to the inlet manifold's airtight.

Most start opening at about 74 degrees, give or take five either way. They should be full open about.. er.. I think about twelve degrees higher..

You can buy spray on rust prevention that sprays on runny and then thickens(it actually turns into a thicker layer) as it dries to a layer of almost grease like stuff that lasts for years. Dinitrol is one make. The cavity waxes are the longest lasting. https://www.dinitroldirect.com/product-category/corrosion-protection/

Gates are normally pretty reliable, and can be purchased without the dealers markup. Look up gates belts, then the "automotive" link top right, then choose recreational vehicles and follow the selection process.

My pleasure.. Ride safe.

Ok. Well I'm glad it's going good again. And you've checked(by taking the inlet piping off and feeling with a finger) that the slide is going up far enough so it's not intruding into the venturi at all ? Every carby I've seen the slide hit the cap on top, and that was just full open venturi. If you check and find the slide's not opening the venturi fully, then the problem will be that the slide needle's the wrong one or set wrong. Then again, perhaps suzuki decided the slide had to stay a little way down to maintain a little vacuum for the pump to operate. I've never played with one of those carbys on a bike with a pump. All our quads here have diaphragm carbies. I guess after all this you'll be happy just to leave well alone, and I couldn't fault that. But then.. perhaps it can go just a tiny bit faster.. Me though, I don't think I've ever been fifty miles an hour on a friggen quad.. That's nutty. haha. Have fun.. but don't get caught.

Onya. The vacuum drops off when the motor's under a load.. Hopefully that's the problem and it is just the pump. Otherwise... you've got low vacuum. Low vacuum could be valve clearance, blocked exhaust, worn motor. Low vacuum at revs is a sign of a blocked exhaust. Low vacuum at low or all revs would be the others. In some of the manuals they say to take a bung out of the back of the muffler and drain the muffler.. I've never found anything at all in there, but they seem to think they block up if they spend a lot of time going slow.. Presumably some sort of oily gunk.

Lol....

So Cookie, something I've been wondering for a while.. Do they use jap electricals and electronics, or bosch ?

Ha.. I'm a mech too Rebel and I know what it can be like.. and as has been said, and you know, it's sometimes the simplest thing. You certainly thorough, and methodical.. Check if there's a starter feed into the cdi unit..

"Of course not all spark systems are wasted spark, but I am guessing this one is. If the atv only has a pickup coil on the crank then how would it know what stroke it was on? ".. Don't guess, be sure. If you want to know how the electronics involved work read up about "voltage doubler", and digital logic "flip-flop". The stator sends out pulses of alternating power, they get "stacked" to charge a capacitor to a higher voltage, then the trigger coil triggers a discharge of the charged up capacitor. On a two stroke they fire every revolution, and on some four strokes that's fine too and they do run a wasted spark. Some engines though, because of a combination of valve overlap and ignition advance, don't like that, so they count the low voltage pulses as they charge the capacitor, and don't let the trigger coil do it's thing till more than one full revolution has happened after the last firing, then it triggers at the next trigger signal. Your backfiring with the engine start spray is likely because of what Cookie was saying..

You make a good point there about opening the throttle wide open to lift the slide Cookie. If it's right down the ether isn't going to get in there. And I agree, starting fluid isn't a good test really. It's full of oil or kero or something and can foul the plug. A teaspoon of fuel down the sparkplug hole is better. Stale fuel can also foul sparkplugs. Have you got fresh fuel CJ ?