Mech

The marks are on the sprocket I think. The cam needs to have the sprocket dowel at about the eleven oclock position, then you turn it till the sprocket marks are level with the head surface.

The policy is probably to keep people here..haha There are other places we can download workshop manuals.. Google for "workshop manual", and your model and year.

If you download a workshop manual it will have all those details you are asking about.. There's probably a manual on this site. Up the top of the page where it says "downloads", repair manuals.

Well now that you've replaced the battery and solenoid you might as well carry on and fix the starter clutch, which is what it sounds like it needs. You can I think buy a pull-start cover that goes on in place of that left cover.

Ho... That is good news Chris.. That will make the experience much more fun.. Just don't give him the beers till the job is done would be my advice.

Yup I'll chip in if I think of anything.. Such as.. you won't probably need to remove all the gearbox bearings if you can clean them thoroughly in place, which mostly depends on whether they have a seal behind them you can take out, or if they are in a dead ended hole whether there's no space behind them, and it's harder to wash right through with a water blast. When cleaning things, you have to be really thorough, scrub every part in petrol with a stiff brush, then give them a good blast with a garden hose. The petrol just dissolves the oil, the water washes all the grit and dirt away.

After you've got to page 161 and got the motor out, you jump to page 162 where it starts the strip down. Some of the instructions there are assuming you are working on the head in place, so you ignore all the bits such as remove the seat etc.. Once you've got to the end of the engine disassembly you jump to the transmission section, page 414. It ends about 427, but a lot of the outer case parts you will do as part of the engine disassembly. The clutch section is similar, most of it will be covered in the engine disassembly, but if you want to check up on some detail, refer to the clutch(or transmission), sections.

Yeah page 158 is the start of taking the motor out. It starts at the top right of 158, then goes onto the next page(159) top left, then top right, then next page(160) top left.. If you open the side pane(top right "view", then side pane), you can click on the arrows next to each heading in the side pane, and it will expand the heading/subject.

I'll grab a copy and have a read and get back to you..

How many pages does your manual have Chris ? 304 or 492

Most of the genuine manuals do read down the left column to the bottom of that page, then back to the top right of the page to continue. The jobs that can be done in place are just to let us know what can and can't be done in place, and what needs the motor taking out of the frame. You will be taking the engine out so you just start at the disassembly point in the manual. If you tell me the exact file name of the manual you got from manualslib I will download it to be sure we are both reading the same manual. It's probably a good idea to browse the manual from front to rear Chris, to familiarise yourself with the manual's layout, sections ext.

Haha.. Yes Chris, you need to take the head and barrel off before you can separate the main/center cases. I'd get it on the bench and take both outer side cases off. Then I'd loosen all the tight nuts on the shafts. You'll have to take the clutch apart to get at one tight nut. To lock the shafts you can put a bit of thick aluminum, copper or lead/solder between gears to jamb them while you loosen the nuts. Even a bit of soft steel will do if you don't let it get crushed between the gears as you do with the softer metals, but wedge it between gears a few teeth out from where they mesh, so it's getting jammed against teeth rather than between teeth. Then take the head off, then the barrel. Next all the bits from in the outer cases and on the ends of the shafts, then finally you split the cases and get the gear shafts out. When you take the gears out, take real care to identify the shift forks and where each one goes, mark them with a felt tip pen if you need to. They all look similar and can be mixed up in some bikes. When you are taking things off, check which way is in or out facing, and lay them out on the bench following some order, such as inner sides down. Lay things out left and right, near and far from you as they are on/in the bike. Take photos, make notes, or mark parts if you think you will forget how they were. Work slowly, carefully, and make sure you have identified where and how each part fits as you disassemble them, and before you lay them out.

Yes feeler gauges are thin strips of different thickness steel measuring gauges. Yes use engine oil when assembling things. Any sort of petrol/gas is fine for cleaning. You could use kerosene or special cleaning fluid which is like kerosene. The kero and cleaning fluid are better on your hands, but expensive, and in your case disposable. In a workshop we use our bath of cleaning fluid for ages.. I use petrol mostly because it's cheaper and always available if I want some clean stuff, and I keep my hands out of it as much as possible.

Pertol/gas is the best thing to wash with, followed by a hose off with water. Crc is water dispersing, rust proofing spray, WD40 is much the same. Yes that torque wrench will do. You need spanners, sockets, allen/hex wrenches(ones that fit your socket set are best), probably an impact screwdriver set, you might need circlip pliers, feeler gauges, an old mill file with the end ground to a sharp square end to use as a scraper to get old gasket and sealer off. I doubt you will need to change any shims. A new gear should go straight in where the old gear was, with the same shims. It's easy to check though with a set of feeler gauges and the workshop manual. Some things, such as the crank and possibly the gear shafts you could leave assembled if you aren't having to dismantle them, but only if you are sure you can get them spotlessly clean. It depends how blown up things are, and whether bits of metal dust have got everywhere. If it's just chipped that one gear, and there isn't signs of metal dust/flakes in the oil, then you can probably just wash the crank in a fresh lot of petrol and then hose through it's oilways. If you wash the crank first in that big dish of petrol, before washing the case for reassembly, then the petrol will be clean and not contaminate the crank. It;s always a good idea to wash the crank and gears first, put them aside somewhere clean, then wash the dirty muddy cases. After the cases have left their mud and old filth in the petrol it's probably time for fresh petrol to clean the rest of the bits before fitting them into the clean cases. You are going to need to strip the entire thing down Chris. You can't separate the left and right side cases with the cylinder on there. It all needs stripping to clean it thoroughly too.

A bit of a mist coming out of the carb is common, but it might be a sign of crook reed valves. It sounds like it's flooding. You need to verify the float level. Some bikes you can attach a bit of clear plastic hose to the drain pipe, bend the pipe up the side of the carby, undo the drain screw and start the motor. The fuel level will be seen in the hose and it should be just slightly below the top of the bottom case/float chamber. Then I'd wind the idle mixture lean, lower the slide needle and see how it went. If it runs better then I'd adjust the idle mixture, then ride and test and adjust the slide needle or main jet.

When you are fitting bolts into cases, drop them all into their holes but don't wind them in. Every bolt should show the same amount length. If one bolt shows less length that the rest, you've go the wrong bolt or in the wrong hole. They should all wind in by about 10 to 12 mills. Muddling up the bolts is probably the second most common problem people have. If you tighten a short bolt it will strip. If you fit too longer bolt it will bottom out without clamping the parts.

You are in for a complete strip down Chris. You need a big bench/table, a big petrol proof dish to wash things, a mechanics cleaning brush, a tube of loctite master gasket, some clean lint free cotton rag(old tee-shirt or bed linen), a garden hose and compressed air if possible. Don't try to take short-cuts. Strip it right down, every bit except the oil pump(and maybe even the oil pump), lay everything out methodically as you remove them. When you take a part off inspect it for damage/wear, and to make sure you know what it is and what it does and how it fits back again. After the whole things stripped, wash the parts you are interested in with petrol followed by a hosing off with the garden hose. Inspect those parts thoroughly and make a parts list, seals, gaskets, parts, machining to be done. Crc those washed parts. Most of the parts can sit dirty. When it's time to put it together you start by washing and hosing and drying one crankcase, hose out the oil galleries in the cases. Then wash one part at a time, hose it, dry and inspect it again to verify you are putting it in the right way. First the gears and shifting mechanism. The gears are one of the most common problems people have. When they are sitting in their one case you need to operate the changer while turning the shafts. It must be able to get all the gears, fully engaged. You need to be gentle on the shifter, and you have to turn both shafts sometimes to get them to change, but they have to change correctly or you will get the whole thing together before you find the problem.. Once you are confident the gears are all correct, fit the crank, balance shaft if it has one, anything from between the center cases. After that you put everything on in the outer cases, then finally before you fit the outer cases you fit the cylinder, head, set the cam timing etc. If you do the disassembly carefully, and lay it out at one end of your bench methodical, then you can reassemble it at the other(clean) end of the bench methodically. I used to teach apprentices and the first thing I used to teach them was to use all their senses, sight, feel, smell, hearing.. but generally not so much their sense of taste. When inspecting parts, look carefully and run your fingers over them. Your fingers will feel wear of one-thousandth of an inch, which your eyes won't detect. Tiny burrs on the cases, thin layers of gasket or sealer, you need to get off, and it's your fingers that will verify they are clean and smooth. Wash parts really thoroughly one at a time just before you refit them, cleanliness is essential. Give everything a light oil or crc before fitting them. If you aren't sure if something you have done is right, don't assume it will probably be/come right.. It won't. Back-track and re-do the part you aren't sure about, even if it means re-splitting the case to recheck the gears(for instance). It's better to do a little back-track than having to do the whole thing again. If you take care about how you are working, the rest will fall into place. If you have to leave it for a bit, lay a big bit of cloth or newspaper over the assembled part to keep dust off. If you have paper-wasps over there that like to make nests in holes in things, cover everything really well so they can't get in. If you have any questions.. ask. I'll be looking in. You can message me if you want some off line advice.

The haynes and clymer manuals have terrible photographs ! They are for the casual mech though and tell you simple ways to do things without the special tools. I prefer the genuine suzuki workshop manual. Wherever you get the manual, they vary in the quality of the copying. Some are nice and clear, and some are blurry and missing whole sections. Keep downloading till you find a good one. I think you might find the DRZ400 is the same engine and box.. It looks the same as in that youtube video. https://www.manualedereparatie.info/en/categorii/suzuki.html https://www.manualslib.com/l/ltz400+suzuki.html

Ok.. Well that's a bit nasty.. When you start taking parts out of the cases, lay them all out in the order they come out.. Top parts away from you, lower parts closer to you on the bench, parts that come off shafts layed at the end of the shafts they come from, all the gears and spacers layed out in the order they go on the shafts. It saves a lot of checking and worrying if you know where they all go back in.

Yeah I saw a picture.. Most of them have a plastic washer between the needle and slide at least, and often a metal one and another plastic spacer between the needle and the spring they normally have above the needle and under that bigger plastic bit you were asking about. Check that when the spring is holding the plastic bit down, that the needle can't move up and down under it...

Even if the float level is a bit out, the idle mixture should still adjust. I'm pretty sure you need to have another look in the carby, or manifold for leaks. It would be a good idea to check if it's got reed valves, that they are ok. When you pull the carby apart blow through all the various drillings, especially the ones going to the idle mixture discharge holes. . Check the jets are clean, including the air jets just inside the air intake side of the venturi.

You should check the regulator's earthing wire.. That could cause it.

Yes the needle sits under that plastic bit, but there are other bits missing.. a small metal washer and one or two plastic spacers, and a small spring.

You need to get a workshop manual and check how to get the DTC(diagnostic trouble codes), from the ECU. It sounds like you have a wiring problem in the IAP circuit.

It will be a problem with the charging, the regulator operation in particular. If you turn the headlights on you will probably find it makes it slightly better too. Check your battery and charging.