Mech

It sounds like an electronic problem.. If you have a timing light, put that on and watch it flash as the engine stops. If the spark dies before the revs do, then the cdi or ignition coil is failing. If it starts to die out but the spark keeps flashing the timing light right down to the last couple or turns of the motor, then it won't be the ignition.

If the electric shift makes a noise and the neutral light goes out, and using the manual shift gives the same results, I wouldn't be suspecting the shift mechanism. I'd be suspecting a worn out clutch or locked brakes or something like that.. So when it isn't moving, what is happening ? Does the engine labour ? Or does the engine just free wheel and rev freely with no load ? If you change up two gears, (so using second or third), do you still get the same results ? Does the bike roll in neutral, does it roll in gear ?

A few spanners, plug socket, two screwdrivers, pliers or channel-lock pliers, knife, electrical tape, zip-ties, puncture repair goo and pump, rope, Wrap the tools up in an oily rag so it doesn't rattle or rust.. and hope you never need any of it.

Check the vacuum hoses going to the fuel tap and the fuel pump, they might be sucking fuel down them and into the engine. They could also be leaking all the time and fill your sump with fuel. Check the oil level and smell looking for fuel.

If it's fuel injected and a twin cylinder check the injector wires aren't swapped, or the spark wiring..

Probably best if you tell us more about it.. Like what you've tried and what's happening. Any observations..

The manual says you should have a 6 or 7 plug, and the gap is 0.025 to 0.031 of an inch. The 8 is a cold plug and will perhaps get fouled easily.

Not much experience but what I have bought have always needed retuning, sometimes quite a bit, and even if the carby was being sold for the very specific model quad. I suspect though that even if you bought a carby off the manufacturer, it might be a compromised tune made to fit a bike in any market, and probably needing tuning for your fuel and altitude etc. If it doesn't run good, fit your old jets and needle and everything if it can be done, if the new carb is the same make as the old.

It looks great. And yeah, we don't have that much room... but we do have a lot of ocean !

Google "honda parts online", and choose one of the many parts listings and diagrams for your year and model.

I've got a few acres of semi cut over pine forest, about sixty acres, steep to very steep, and with a swamp running length-ways down the center nearly.. Lots of skidder tracks and clearings to do donuts and get muddy. But these days the quad is mainly a workhourse for maintaining the drive and getting firewood in and going to see the sons who live over the back. Here, if we want a day out on the quads, it's off to the beach.. Ninety mile beach in the far north of N.Z., or remote beaches on the east coast.

That sounds like the good ethics mate... That's my policy too.. If I can't don't fix it, it's no charge, not for the labor anyway.. Parts as you say, needed to eliminate well diagnosed possibilities I have always discussed and negotiated before trying them.. The whole of being professional, is inspiring trust and confidence in your customers.

It's pretty damn hairy driving at much speed with the diff lock engaged. You should be able to change right up through the gears with super-low engaged.. You do need to wind it out a bit though before doing the changes so the gears don't bind and not want to shift.. Perhaps check the clutch adjustment too. The plug shouldn't get fouled. It might be burning oil, or need the carby adjusting,(We'd suspect to a leaner mixture, which is counter to my next line..), or need a new plug, or a new plug with a different heat range. Having to wind the idle mixture that far sounds like it's got a very lean mixture, perhaps an air leak into a vacuum hose or the manifold, or a low fuel level in the bowl. If the mixture is wrong, generally lean, they will/can race at warm idle when they were fine cold. I'd try to check the plug isn't oily, meaning, I check it's not burning oil/blowing blue smoke, then check/clean adjust the carby and vacuum hoses, then consider changing to a hotter plug if it stills fouls...

Looks good alright. And good work making time to get out with brother... it's just too easy to let those chances slip by.. Precious memories in the making.

Bummer. I hate that.. when you don't get to the bottom of it and the customer calls time.. I hate it so much I mostly try to convince them to leave it with me and I'll try in my own time.. Bad wiring I reckon, you moved some wire somewhere and it ran then vibrated out of place again.... Go on... have another look.. You know you want to....

Clutches inside the cases, and soaked in oil don't smell. Brakes smell, exhaust pipes can smell, oil leaking onto the motor or exhaust can smell, batteries can smell, burnt wires can smell.. er...that's all I can think of...

And you even whinge about what's going on over here.. I ask again, is there anyone or anything you aren't disgruntled about in the world ? Cheer up man !

I already told you I can't be bothered correcting all your incorrect assumptions and information.. It just provokes more of the same.

Ha.. more of the usual bad research..

As I said, we are a caring and sharing society.. I'm a caring and sharing guy. I support people happily because it makes my life better. Just as with getting the vaccine, what we do voluntarily , and for the common good, is not the hardship it is to people that feel themselves forced to do it... Same as wearing a mask or isolating if you feel unwell. Forgoing some freedoms, is an easy thing..

We don't see most of those things as problems here in N.Z. Personal freedom comes with costs, and responsibilities. It's all a balancing act, and if you consider your personal freedom to do whatever you want, or not want to do, is paramount, then you have to accept that other people have the same right.. to do as they want. We are much more sharing and caring here in N.Z. I suspect. Perhaps it's because of the place our indigenous people have, and the role they play.

You got the seals the right way, so it must be the wrong size somewhere. is it leaking both sides ? That confirms the wrong size. You wouldn't have put a groove in the aluminum as you levered the seals out ? If you don't have any, get some vernier calipers, they can be got quite cheaply. They are the handiest measuring tool to have around the workshop. they measure inside, outside and depths.

Oh ok. Thanks for answering Freedom.. Not sure that much of what they had to say in that link is true though.. But no doubt the wealthy do wield a bit more power than is healthy for society's good.

There is a problem alright. The seals should stop oil even if it's over filled. It will almost certainly be that the shafts or the seals are the wrong size.. unless.. long shot here and please don't be offended... . you put the seals in facing the wrong way/back to front.. It has been done before. If they were leaking before you replaced them, then you should check the diff breather isn't blocked, but if it was pressurising you would have probably noticed a puff of air as you took the bung out. The seals inner lip should be about a mill or two smaller diameter then the shaft. If you don't have verniers to measure the seal and shaft, watch as you push the shaft in and it should be possible to see the seal get spread a bit bigger diameter as the shaft goes in.

I wonder where they get the idea that vaccination "substantially reduces the chance of infection"... That's the sort of straw man/misinformation that we hear from covid and vaccine deniers normally, It's certainly not good journalism.