Mech

It's not a model we get here so I haven't had one exactly like it apart, but I had a look in the manual last night and it certainly seem to be that it must be inside the center cases, a gear on a shaft wrong, or a selector fork in the wrong place. You should probably take it back to who did the work. They should fix it for free if they are reasonable. They won't want to take responsibility though if you have pulled it right apart so they can't be sure it is their work that caused it. So far, with only the clutch side off they shouldn't be able to quibble. As for the clutch, I don't understand what the problem is there. Once the springs are done up on the clutch the clutch is meant to be locked up, it should only slip if the cover's on and the clutch lever pulled in. It doesn't really sound to me like there is any problem there. I suspect you are mistaking the gearbox getting two gears at once(which will lock the gearbox solid), for a locked up motor. If I was you, I'd take the clutch off, take the drive chain off, and disconnect most of the gear change mechanism. I'd leave the detent that holds it in gears, that's a lever with a roller on it that presses against the selector barrel. Then while spinning the gear shaft the clutch goes onto I'd try getting all the gears by rotating that selector barrel. If you have the problem then, I'd leave it like that and take the bike back to the shop and show them what's happening. They shouldn't object too much to your having confirmed there is a problem before bringing it back to them. Other than that I'm pretty damn sure you are going to have to strip the motor and center cases to cure that. It's a worry though that they aren't competent. Perhaps they would agree to you taking it to a local honda dealer and them paying for the repair.. You would need to be confident and diplomatic to wrangle that though.. An independent mechanic to argue your case might help.

Yeah and second is really reverse you said.. I think ? That's not right.. My guess would be(because it's probably the easiest if you aren't reading the book or being careful), that they have muddled two shift forks up.. I don't think the gear change mechanism in the outer case could cause the reverse problem.. That mechanism is really just a ratchet so the lever goes to center.. The gear shifting/selection is all about how the gears are on the shaft, and how the shift forks engage in the shift barrel. If you have the side case off you can remove the ratchet mechanism and rotate the shift barrel, and the gears should all engage in order R-N-1-2-3-4-5- and without two gears being engaged at a time. The clutch dragging/locking is a different matter and should be relatively easy to suss. Check the clutch doesn't have an extra steel or friction in it.

That one spark and then quit could be because the ac that's charging the cdi is not in the right phasing with the trigger coil.. The way the cdi charges up is often important. Some of the electronics(in the cdi) count the number of pulses of charge before they will allow a trigger event. They sometimes need two positive pulses say, with a negative pulse between, but if the ac windings are back to front they can get two negative pulses and one positive.. something like that, or backwards from that.

Is the cdi original ? Or aftermarket ? It could be that you need to reverse the charging wires to the cdi, or reverse the trigger wires to the cdi, if it's not an original cdi unit. Some(lots) cdi need to have the ac going into them the right way. They may need to have a positive first wave, or a negative first wave of charging, to set them up to be triggered.. The trigger probably only works with the right trigger voltage, positive or negative, and rising or falling.. You could just try swapping things and trying.

But now diagram huh... Well check for continuity/resistance from the cdi, down to the various windings in the stator. Each wire at the cdi will either have a there and a return wire from the stator, or just one that goes to earth. Just check there is continuity with your ohm meter to start, don't worry about the exact readings.. Then try the same process to trace the wires to the key switch and kill switch.. Try and make a wiring diagram.. Just draw where each wire goes as you check it's continuity. Some wires might go to the switches and to the cdi or stator.. Draw switches as boxes till we figure whether they are meant to be open or closed for run. Draw the stator real basic and don't worry about what set of wires is inside, just where the wires run on the bike. We can probably make a wiring diagram.. Or a whole new loom if need be. To test those broken wires on the motor, put it in gear and use the ohm gauge on the bits of wire you can see to check if they are earthed or connected or open circuit. Then put it in neutral and repeat the process.

I don't suppose you have a wiring diagram.. It's just possible those wires might go to a neutral switch, that effects the ignition.. Some small two-strokes start up with rev limiters for safety reasons, till they are in gear. If it has a centrifugal clutch, that would be a possibility..

Ok, those copper coils will be for battery charging, the two covered ones will be for the cdi charging, and that black box is the trigger coil.. Betcha.. The battery coils will have a low impedence/resistance reading, the two will have higher resistance, and the trigger.. it will have a higher resistance still,.. Pretty sure those cut wires will be neutral light..

The regulators cause a problem when you rev the engine. I've never seen one cause a problem at idle.. Easy to check though.. Put a voltage gauge on the battery and see it's charging, and regulating.

But the motor does turn ? The clutch hub and basket have spacers/sleeves and washers in the setup.. Perhaps check all that against the manual. The reverse though... that's another matter.. I'd find what's wrong with the clutch, so you can perhaps report it to the shop, then I'd try and diagnose the gear pattern without taking too much apart till I'd talked to the shop about warranty.

You need to check that the air temp sensor, and the coolant temp sensor, are both producing the correct range of figures for the ecu.. Or the ecu will be making the mixture wrong.. Check cold, and hot.. The fuel filter should be able to take out any dirt in the fuel system, but if there had been a bit of moisture in there, you may have a sticky injector now. There is stuff called injector cleaner for in the fuel.. Don't know it does much good, but may be worth a try if the sensors are both ok. I wouldn't mix it with the other stuff though.

Downloads are up top in "More", then service manuals or something which open a new page, then on the right choose the make. "as soon as we tightened it up".. Was it the nut on the gearbox shaft that you were tightening up, or the four pressure plate bolts ? I think you need the manual, then check the change mechanism in the side case, and if it's not that, then it will be the gear shafts not put together right. Did you have the gears off the shafts ?

I'd have thought that all the stator part of ignition system would be in that outer case, with the windings in it. Are you sure those cut wires aren't for a neutral switch ? And those windings, some look like they have been hot, and some not..

Sounds like the gearbox has been put together wrong.. I'd jack the wheels up and turn the wheels while I changed gears with my hand, without the engine running.. Checking it did get all the gears, and in the right order. If you take the spark plug out, and turn the wheels forwards, they should turn the motor over if everything else is right.. You may need to turn the wheels back and forwards to get the gears to change, and it may take several rotations while you are holding the gear lever up or down, but you should get every gear, and if you turn it forwards you will hear the engine turn faster in low gears, and slower in higher gears.. Check it by hand.. If there's a problem, I'd pull the side case and check the gear change mechanism there/then, before I pulled the whole thing apart again.. it might be just in the outer case.

Good. Try and hold the flywheel firmly away from the engine when you hit it, even the tiny amount of play in the bearings will help prevent the bearings getting impacted when you hit the puller.. And that's a big puller, it can likely pull with ten tons or more. Don't over tighten it or it may bend that flywheel. The shockwave from the hammer is what's going to loosen the flywheel on the tapered shaft..

I'd suggest trying a slower idle before pulling anything apart.. it's so simple !!

Did you get what I meant about the hammer hit ? If we want to move a tight shaft in a hole, we use a big hammer and hit hard, and don't let it bounce.. That has a lot of drive to it... and could bend your crank.. Just a short sharp hit, that bounces the hammer back away.. That's what you want.

Put your puller on, wind it up fairly tight.. Then use an eight ounce engineers hammer(engineers hammer !), and give the bolt on the puller a sharp hit. It would pay to be holding the flywheel away from the engine as much as possible. Not a really hard hit, just swing the hammer a short way, but fast, and let it bounce back away from the puller. Depending on the end of of the shaft, and the end of your puller, it might be best to have the nut on the crank bolt.. That works on most bits of machinery, but some of those cheap import jobs these days are made really really badly, and it is possible that something could get bust.. I'd imagine there are fine threads on or in the outer end of that flywheel. If you measure the diameter of the threads, and using metric bolts to check what pitch the threads are, you can probably buy a puller made for a jap bike. The thread diameter has to be measured to what the outside diameter of the threads are. They will be metric, probably in whole mm. If you have a vernier caliper it will be easy. If not, you might be able to use something like a pair of scissors as a gauge, then apply it to a ruler.

Yeah I saw your other posts.. I think you'd get more responses, in future, if you say what make, model and year.

no, I just thought you may be wanting to look in there when it wasn't really necessary.. which happens quite often.

I use a puller and give them a tap with a hammer.. but if you aren't used to doing things like that it's probably best to buy a custom puller for that job.. They can be had for as little as twenty bucks.. and last forever.. Google flywheel puller and your bike brand. Are you sure you need the flywheel off ?

Ha.. that's pretty funny Dude.. I get that sort of thing making dinner... After dinner I notice a board with veges I'd forgotten to throw in there.. Or find a steak in the cooler !! And round here, the ground is hard as concrete in places in summer.. so this is the time for cleaning drains etc.. Mine are done.. It would be a good plan to check the temperature sensors are reading accurately. If it thinks the motor is slightly hotter than it is it will lean it out at light throttle. There's an air and a coolant temp sensor.. It might come right after a bit of riding. The software makes adjustments to compensate for the long term effects, like blocked or new aircleaners, blocked exhausts, worn motors. They make "short term" adjustments as they warm, and other adjustments as you load it up hills and give it more or less throttle. If they notice knocking/detonation. or needing to inject a lot of fuel too often, they make a "long term" adjustment, which gets saved and are then the new base figures from which they make the short term adjustments as you ride. So they retard the ignition timing till it learns you have better grade fuel say, or richer till you restore the vacuum.. The long term adjustments will slowly readjust over several stop start, cold hot, little throttle full throttle cycles. If you want to speed up the process, start it from cold and take it for a ride that incorporates all manner of riding.. At least thirty seconds of each.. Thirty seconds of each cold, and then thirty seconds with it hot.. using little throttle and full throttle, and slow speeds and high speeds, and till it gets fully hot. Then repeat.. After probably three cycles it should have relearned. One long ride doesn't do it.

That does sound like the problem.. What Stilkikn says..

Yeah there is some danger there as Dave suggests. It's also possible that the top ring lands on the piston could be pressed down, clamping the rings. That's why I asked how far from the edge. Perhaps a picture would be a good idea... If you are sure the valves aren't leaking, then they didn't get much strain on them, they bend really easily.

And, since you are I'm sure interested.. All the other sensors get over ridden and set at arbitrary figures if they play up so you can limp home. The CKP is the only one that kills the starting. It also warn that metal flakes on the crank sensor or flywheel will stop the signal. It only takes the tiniest bit of metal to bridge the gap between flywheel and sensor to short the magnetic flux. It might be worth checking that carefully... A real careful wipe with a rag mostly grabs rust/metal flakes.

After thought.. Since it's happened since the water, and before you disturbed it.. perhaps it's corroded terminals, corroded or eaten by the electrical current.. It would pay to work the rubber seals out of the plugs with a pin, and then get the terminals carefully out of their housings, and check the crimp on terminals don't have dirty connections to the wire.