Mech

Simplify life.. Sell everything.

Cheers.

Oh... and to the original poster.. You could try a hotter plug.. An NGK plug.. In jap bikes, ngk seem to last when nothing else does.. Don't know why, but it can be quite a dramatic difference between ngk and any of the other makes..

For my customers.. it's castrol, shell, or mobil always, and the spec recommended.. But that's just because of the liabilities aspect..

Well.. it depends on the brand of oil and what sort it is, but I've found that in old motors, and two-strokes, that some oils foul plugs. High detergent oils seem quite bad for it. They don't get a big thick layer of solid carbon on them, just an oily look.. Just shiny or wet looking, but it really buggers the plugs, even a good clean doesn't always get the plug reusable.. heating them in a flame sometimes does though.. As far as the oil to use goes. These things aren't really super high stress, not like something with a turbo say, or even a modern high revving , fine tolerance motor in a small hot engine bay. The commonest objection I hear to using some fairly bland type of mineral oil is that they have a wet clutch.. well we've had wet clutches for a hundred and more years, and most of them have been just fine with mineral oil.. It's only having to heavy or too lighter oil that effects the clutch. I've been running all the bikes I've had on plain mineral oil for years, decades actually.... and between myself and my two sons, we've had dozens of them.. Two stroke, four stroke, quads, motorcross, street.. I deliberately buy the plainest mineral oil I can for my own use because then I can use it in everything, including the chainsaw etc.. There is a lot of hype, but when you actually check it out, and actually compare your quad to some machinery, you realise that they aren't really very special at all..

I agree about running the carby dry if it's going to sit for a while. In this case, draining the carby to let the float drop, then tapping the carby (or putting a bit of compressed air through) to make the needle drop, then turning the fuel back on, might do the trick.. It's worked before when just tapping the carb didn't..

Well if the weld is on the end of the shaft, you could probably grind it back a little/flush, then use a screwdriver to force the lever's clamping bit apart slightly, and by wriggling the lever, break the rest of the weld. That generally gets them off. The shaft is possibly damaged on it's splines though and may need replacing, but, some people reach for the welder far too quickly, and I've fixed old welded lever/shaft problems before. A small triangle file, and a new bolt and things might be reusable. Even if you do have to weld it back on again, if getting it off helps diagnose/fix the problem, that's all we need.

It could be that the oil you are using isn't tolerant of being used in older/worn motors. Some oils burn up just fine, some oils when they burn foul plugs.. You might try finding an oil recommended for older or worn motors.. The flasher oils generally have additives in them that foul plugs if they are burning oil.. Plain old mineral oils are better for old motors.

I couldn't make out the pictures too good.. Bad eyes.. And they wouldn't open in my linux machine.. But yeah, the color of any smoke would be a good indicator..

Ok.. Good to have you along then..

Yup.. a sharp tap..or several of them I always use the handle of a screwdriver endways.. nothing gets hurt using that.

Thanks Bruce. Those readings you said kept changing from good to bad, up a bit... That's probably the gauge you are using. Digital multimeters all refresh their display regularly, and some have a slow count rate, they often don't read fluctuating data correctly every time they refresh. If we want to read something like a pulse coil, it's better to use an old analogue gauge, with a needle.. You may not be able to spot the exact figure because the needle swings up way past it's mark due to inertia, but at least we can see it's getting a pulse. The other option is buy a flasher gauge with a higher "count" rate.. or a max record feature.. And Pebbles in the cdi.. haha.. never heard of that one before.. but whatever.. Good work.

It looks like it's burning oil probably.. If you have a propane burner or welder heat that plug till t stops burning clean, then put it in and start the motor. Warm the motor up and then start opening and closing the throttle, give it about a quarter or a bit less throttle so the revs come up to about three-four thousand revs, then let it off, then on again once it slows but before it gets right to idle. Keep doing that while you watch the exhaust. It will probably start smoking, and get worse and worse the longer you sit there cycling the revs up and down.. If it does, it will be the rings. The other common thing is the valve guide seals, they show up if you let it sit till it's cool, then start it and it will smoke for a minute or two .. If it's not oil burning, it must be burning way way too much fuel.. The carby needs checking over.

Haha.. They are pretty tolerant here.. The moderator's a helpful guy too.. It's a good site.

Well you're up to two already.. Keep going. There's an intro page somewhere...

Have you got a manual ? Top of the page "more" button, "ATV manuals", on the new page about half way down on the right choose honda...

A harder tap ? Or drain that carb to drop the float completely and then turn the gas back on again..

Good stuff.. Have fun.

Check it still has spark ?

I see you've made ten posts already... I thought that was enough..

I'd suspect the 195 is a measurement, either 1.95 mm or .195 of an inch.. I'd check the end-float and if it was near either of those measurements I'd accept it as the thickness..

Keep posting.. This might help in the meantime.. https://www.mickhone.com.au/partFinder/fiche/suzuki/1994/lt-f160/rear-wheel#next

At the top of the page there's a "more", button, click on that and choose atv manuals, then in a new page, over on the right and down a bit choose the make, then you might find a service manual.

I'd say take that big nut off and the axle will slide to the right.. Or there's another big nut on the other side under the brake drum, then it slides left..

Anyone that uses a vacuum gauge....