Mech

Yeah well a million is a lot of pieces of belt. I still think if you want to be absolutely sure it is the new clutch causing your problems (credibility) then you need to swap/test one part at a time.. that's the scientific/logical way. That's the way we mechanics have to do it.. We have to be able to demonstrate our reasoning was sound. You had the problem before you changed clutches. The problem arose after you'd changed tyres you say. Changing clutches didn't cure the problem, and it wasn't the cause of the problem. It's a pity that you are disappointing the new clutch didn't cure the pre-existing problem as you'd hoped, but I don't think it justifies bagging the new clutch. Consider this.. If the old tyres lack of traction in the mud was what was saving your belts from destruction, and enhanced grip in the mud with the new tyres alone was what was causing them to fail in only nine miles, if you are correct and it was in fact traction alone causing the belt failures, then the belts would have destroyed themselves driving on good surfaces where the original tyres were getting traction. That's logic. You were destroying belts in as little as nine miles.. Here's what the manual has to say about that. Perhaps some of the problems are not in fact the new clutch setup, or the new tyres. "A proper break-in of the clutches and drive belt will ensure a longer life and better performance. Break in the clutches and drive belt by operating at slower speeds during the 10 hours as recommended (see Chapter 3 – Engine Break-In Period, page 3.32 for break-in example). Avoid aggressive acceleration and high speed operation during the break-in period. After installation of a new drive belt, break-in new drive belts by operating at slower speeds during the break-in period ~50 miles. Carry only light loads. Avoid aggressive acceleration, high speed operation, and extended time at a specific RPM during the break-in period. In addition, when operating in sand/dune environments, avoid extended low speed operation at high throttle.". And again.. "PVT Break-In (Drive Belt / Clutches) A proper break-in of the clutches and drive belt will ensure a longer life and better performance. Break in the clutches and drive belt by operating at slower speeds during the 10 hour break-in period as recommended. Pull only light loads. Avoid aggressive acceleration and high speed operation during the break- in period.". I think you are drawing a very long bow trying to blame all your belt problems on the new clutch, and I think if you want to present a creditable justification for bad mouthing them you need to prove it is the clutch alone by eliminating the new tyres and your driving techniques as possible causes. You need to change one factor at a time and demonstrate that that one factor does, and only it does, cause the problem.

"I feel credible information is important; ". And so do I, and in fairness to the makers of the clutch you are bagging, I think it's important to point out a few things. First off, your theory and that story doesn't make sense.. For a start, mud does not use a lot of torque, quite the opposite. Sand puts big loads on your motor, horsepower and torque, but mud by virtue of it's softness and slipperiness can't use too much of either. If your new tires are getting so much grip now that there's no wheelspin and so you are applying more power, well that's one thing, but I'll bet that it's no more power than you'd get/use on a good hard surface. If the belts are failing now because you are getting grip in the mud, then the belts would have been failing when you got good grip on hard surfaces before. Secondly, you say the problems started after you changed the tyres/wheels, not after you'd changed the clutch.. You changed the clutch to try and remedy the problem the wheels had caused. How can you now claim it's caused by the aftermarket clutch ? Thirdly, you fixed the problem again by changing everything back to stock.. including the wheels. That doesn't prove it was the aftermarket clutch causing the problem, and it doesn't prove that it was the wheels either. It's inconclusive. In the interests of credibility, I think you need to be more methodical and change one component at a time before blaming it on that clutch. You've already tried the standard clutch with aftermarket wheels and the belt failed, how about trying that aftermarket clutch with the standard wheels and see if the belts fail in nine miles. If the clutch, and the belts survive, then put your aftermarket wheels on and see how things go... In the interests of credibility. To my mind there are a couple of possibilities causing your problem here, and neither of them are the aftermarket clutch, which was meant to be the cure for the problem, but didn't fix it... One is that you have changed the diameter of the wheels, and the other is that the belts need bedding in before using them hard. Did you change the diameter of the tyres ? Changing the diameter of the wheels could cause the belt pulleys to be operating too near the extreme range of their variability. They are designed to operate through a certain rev range, and when the bike is in it's power range the pulleys should be near the center of their diameter range, and at the low revs, and high revs, when the torque is less, they are meant to be using a small pulley and a large pulley. Small diameter pulleys can't handle as much power as large pulleys, so, gearing it so it's using the power when both pulleys are the same diameter will help transmit power better. Over gearing it and putting a lot of power through a small pulley will tend to promote belt slip. And, those belts do need running in.. the manuals say so..

There might be a manual in here.. Up the top, "more", service manuals, then in the new page a way down on the right choose your make and have a browse. The way it's probably meant to be done is to take the other side case off and undo a circlip or something and pull the shaft back through.

Yup, what Gw says...

You're not likely to get much compression if the rings are stuck. I'd work the rings free starting at their gap and levering the two ends apart a little with a tiny screwdriver, then once the ends start moving out, if you use a plastic screwdriver handle to tap the rings back into the groove while the screw driver is still in the gap you'll find that the ring lifts out of the groove a little further around. Then use a bigger screwdriver to lever the ends apart further and repeat the tapping so the ring lifts even further around the piston. If you keep spreading the gap, and then tapping the ring back into the groove while the rings ends are held apart you'll find they come free. Work the tapping from the gap along towards the stuck place. Once they move you could take them off and clean the grooves, or if they seem to free up nicely then just give it a good clean. Oil the rings and put it together and it might come right. If the bore isn't grooved then I'd just clean it. If the bore has alumiium stuck to it then I use caustic soda on a small brush or rag and apply it to the stuck aluminium. Caustic eats aluminium but not the cast/steel so you can avoid honeing the bore which will upset the rings being run in, and cause more wear as they re run in. You need to apply the caustic in a really well ventilated space and stand up wind because it produces some really exceptionally toxic fumes.. I mean the fumes will have you choking from twenty feet away even outside if you are down wind. Because the caustic has such a violent reaction with aluminium it's important not to get it anywhere except on the aluminium in the bore, don't try dropping the whole bore into a bucket of caustic or you'll end up with just a steel sleeve left.. The caustic is really handy if you have a bore that's nitro hardened and which won't hone. I've recovered two stroke motorcross cylinders that had been proclaimed beyond reuse by bike shops using caustic.

Yeah ok... Now I'm jealous !!

If a cv had failed it would seem to be out of 4x4... I'd definitely jack it up one side at a time and try turning the wheels to test the axles and diff operation. Then I'd try turning the driveshaft by hand with the diff engaged and the back wheels up.

Have you tried jacking the front up and turning the wheels, and driveshaft if possible, feeling for roughness, clunking, or movement. Try turning it backwards and forwards, and while it's up look for anything that looks like it could have been rubbing..

It could be the sound of a spark jumping. I'd try listening close to the cdi unit and see if the sound seem to come from it. I'd also check the sparkplug's lead and cap, listening for a spark. Other than that it could be a wire coming loose or with a near break in it causing a relay to make a noise intermittently, and at the same time causing the miss. For that I'd leave it idling and carefully wriggle all the wires.

I've read a few cases of the diffs playing up, and diffs are a bit famous for making noises on the over-run. You could check all the trans and diff oils for signs of metal.. Probably just course dust/flakes. Very fine mist of metallic dust is normal, flakes or obvious metal particles.. not so.

If the idle mixture screw doesn't have any effect, then it's because either the idle system has a blocked jet or passage, the fuel jet by the sounds of it, or the throttle is too wide open for the idle system to operate.. You should check the slide is going right up and down, that the slide needle is fixed in place correctly, and that the throttle goes right back if it's a CV carby. The throttle cable may not be attached/sitting correctly. If that stops the high revving then the idle mixture will perhaps adjust. If it still doesn't adjust then it needs the idle jet cleaning again. If you are taking it off again recheck the join to the manifold, an air leak could cause the problems. So could burning oil.. It's not smoking is it ? It would be a good idea to check the valve clearances too.

Some early 250 suzukis had a mod which was to fit a little capsule/filter/valve thing into the vacuum line to the tap. The capsule allowed full vacuum to the tap instantly, but had a restriction in the flow going back the other way, so the tap was slow to close. That might help your new tap...

Standard taps have on-pri-res. The prime being horizontal.. And yeah, reserve normally works the same as on, under the control of vacuum. Might pay to take the rotating part of the tap out, and check the washer behind it is located correctly..

Good one.

It could have an air leak, (either a holed diaphragm or into the inlet manifold), or a blocked jet, or you might have adjusted the idle speed and mixture incorrectly. I'd probably take the carb off and clean it and check the float setting, and then when it's warmed up I'd adjust the idle mixture to it's best running with the idle speed screw wound out as far as possible.

Perhaps the adjustment is not right on the shoes. You could try adjusting the brakes up till the wheels wont turn, then see if you have pressure. Or, put a clamp on each brake hose and that will eliminate brake shoe movement which means any lack of pressure is a hydraulic problem. It could be that you still have air in the system.. Because the hoses run near vertical, bubbles of air can keep rising up and not flush through if the bleeding is done too slowly.. Clamping one hose at a time might help by making all the fluid go to one wheel at a time, meaning it's more likely to carry the bubble down to the wheel cylinder and out. I always bleed brakes by pumping up the pressure, then while still holding the pressure on, release the bleeder as far and as soon as I can.. If we pump up pressure, but then hesitate, bubbles can be rising up the pipes and not get spat out.

Yeah that sounds likely. And they could be 14 or 17 mm hex. Both are common. If you can't find kawa nuts, one of the other jap bikes will have the same size. They are toughened nuts so best to get some genuine rather than common old nuts from the engineering supply shop. If you searched on a jap car wreck you would find nuts with a flange built into them, a part of the nut. Those are toughened too and would do. They would be on the suspension, engine, gearbox.. If they have a separate washer mounted on the nut, but able to turn, those aren't toughened nuts. The tough ones have a flange as part of the nut.

Ok, I did some more reading.. That actuator on the front diff... how many wires does it have going to it ?

Perhaps you could heat and bend the bodywork, or make some brackets which keep it away from the tyres.. or.. last resort, cut the bodywork away so it doesn't touch.

I've had stators rewound before for a good price, and done with better quality wire than the original too..

I'm not sure that we are all talking about the same model of quad here. Apparently kodiaks come in water cooled and air cooled, and some I think have manual gearboxes with five speeds and some are auto/2speed like yours... Your neutral switch might not be on the motor, but either on the gear shift lever or the transmission.. If you do have the four switches I'd guess it's one each for high, low, reverse and neutral.. I'm not real familiar with yamahas though.. they aren't so popular around here..

Well... in some models the trouble codes get displayed automatically if there is a fault. They get displayed in the clock display. If you don't have that then it won't I think have trouble codes. I'm not familiar with those quads, and information is scarce. The manuals I've been looking at show different systems. It really needs you to look at several manuals and see if you can find one with a very similar set up. If you showed us some pictures of your switch gear, and dash, it might help me to figure what setup is on your bike, but I'd still have to keep coming back in asking you to confirm things.. The nearest model I've found is for the 500. It's wiring diagram(all of the wiring diagrams actually), doesn't have any things labeled. It all needs comparing to your bike and confirming.. About the only thing I can figure is that the two second delay before the light comes on is significant. There's two likely causes for that. One is that some electronic component is getting hot and making the light come on, and the other possibility is that the bike has a computer and it takes two seconds to do it's system checks and find a fault which causes the light to come on.. but I don't know whether your bike has a computer. a picture of the dash would help there.. Maybe. If you can identify a quad setup that looks like it has the same fuel system(fuel injected or carby),switches, ignition, fuses, relays etc, then we could probably assume it's wiring will be very similar, but possibly with different coloured wires, which is common. Then we might get somewhere. At the moment, having looked a few models, it's looking to me that the component they describe as the cdi is a suspect. They describe it as a cdi, but it has far too many wires and some of them go to the diff lock light.. It must be more than a cdi, perhaps a computer that does the ignition and other jobs as well. In the 500 model, power goes through that cdi, then to the diff lock actuator and to the diff lock light, then to a normally closed switch, which looks like it could be some sort of over ride for the diff lock light.. That switch isn't labeled though and it's unclear where it is on the bike. We really need to confirm what the bike has on it and which other models are similar.

Removing the body work is a common thing to get access on most quads.. As long as the screws and bolts aren't rusted up it's normally a fairly simple job. Because the bolts do rust, I always strip the body and fix all the bolts and grease them early in my association with the vehicles. It saves a lot of problems and swearing in subsequent jobs.

I see it's known as a Forge 400 too.. and that it's the same as a 360.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/332948942221

The 500ATV2 manual might be similar.. ? Have a look and see if the switches etc are the same.. Perhaps we can match up a wiring diagram even if the wire colours are not right. https://www.manualslib.com/brand/hisun/offroad-vehicle.html I see there is also a 450 model atv.. You need to inspect each of those links, the descriptions are not all accurate.. Some links take you to a different model than the link says..