Mech

Yeah it look like fun.. for the dunes.. A bit too short, but that would add to the excitement huh. If you really must go out doing your serious four wheel driving, doing the aggressive trail riding, with its river crossings, and huge, hub deep mud holes.. You should learn how to get out when you are stuck. You should look up how "shear-legs" work. That would have had you out of there in a moment with no strain on anything. You could get your mates and a rope and done what's knows as "snigging", and had it out in ten minutes. If you use a tie-down strop off to the side of your winch cable you can pull from the side where you don't want to take your buddy's buggy. That often helps. A single man with modest pulleys and a rope Keys, can move a thirty foot boat up a chest high bank, using shear-legs. A single boy, can drag a quad hundreds of feet, up a steep slippery hill he should never gone down, with a rope and snigging. Perhaps, if you asked nicely, Ulf in here might take you out and show you how to drive a belt drive, and have some real adventures. You got about as much chance as STM coming to fix your problem for you... Might as well ask. You need lifts ? ? ?

Can't help you with that one. If you look up a new bulb though in an online parts place, you could manually compare the new and old models to see if they are the same, or, some parts sites have a feature where when you look up a part, and there will be some way where they tell you all the other models that part fits. Sometimes there is a link in the part index, sometimes just clicking on the part like you are going to buy it takes you to a page that tells you. There are only a few designs of fittings, but there are different power ratings for bulbs. A little different power rating will be ok.

I absolutely agree Gw.. This an excellent site. Well done you admin guys.

Even if the frame was a little bent and the bearings misaligned, it shouldn't damage a bearing doing that work in a hurry. Side thrust will destroy a bearing real fast. Even if you were installing it by driving it on the inner race, which would normally be bad for a high speed bearing, it shouldn't harm it in this situation. The bikes are made for off road use, and the swing arm bearings normally last for years and years, till the seals wear and the bearings rust. Those bearings don't usually break, only rust. Was the original bearing really actually broken without rust, or rusted and hammering till it broke ? The answer to that might confirm it's alignment, or not If it is a bent frame causing the misalignment, then the misalignment should always be on the same side when you assemble it.. I think.. Just mussing here.. I might be wrong about that. The position of the engine will not effect the bearings or the position of the swingarm. The swingarm and/or engine can be a little out of place, as long as the drive shaft isn't rubbing inside the arm. Having a little gap on one side should not be a problem. The bearing failure I'm sorry to say is almost certainly something wrong with the assembly work... The bearings are I think, from memory, perfectly common ball bearing races.. They will have a number on them. 6204 or something like that. If you take the number to an engineering supply place, or a bearing specialist, they will be able to supply one easily, off the shelf, and if you take them the dimensions of the seal, or an old seal, they will supply one of those too. At least they are easy to fit. I'd sling a new one in and take extra care about the order and torque of tightening.

I take it you have the manual and did the bolts up in the right order.. The right bolt goes up solid first, and then the other side snugs up till the arm's positioned right is the theory. You have the solid bolt on the right hand side, and tightened that right up tight first ? And the bolt and locknut on the left. Did you hold the left bolt while you were tightening the lock nut ? If the left bolt tightened as you were tightening the locknut it would put too much pressure on the bearings and would wreck them. You did read the torque figures right.. didn't take LbFt for KgM or something ? That, doing things too tight, would explain the bearings failing. That seems the most likely reason for the bearing failure and the miss-positioning. If you did things in the right order and torque and the positioning was wrong it could be because the new bearings, or one of them at least, was a different width. Bearings do come in different widths. Different widths though shouldn't cause a bearing failure.. Over tightening the bolts onto the bearings is almost certainly the cause of bearing failure.

Ha.. You're a good bugger Admin.. And Aj.. Too helpful ! Onya...

Why don't you just go to Polaris and tell them that you don'f find belt drive up to your requirements. They should/might give you a refund on that buggy they sold you surely.

Oh that's a good thought Dave..

if you look the part up online, and then search around in the parts site, you might find a link that will show you what other models and years that part fits.. Sometimes the link is just selecting the part, and sometimes in the price list there will be an arrow or something that will show you.

If you go up the top of the page, click on "more", choose service manuals, and then in the new page that opens, on the right and down a bit choose yamaha, you'll find a manual.. Have a read.. It doesn't really sound like the sensor to me.. not with it only going with the key off.. If you find the right book for your bike and let me know which manual it is I'll have a look at the wiring diagram and see if I can spot anything.

I was reading up last night Keys and people do seem to say that STM are helpful, and do stand by their products. People that have had trouble, not all but some, have been given assistance, have been given extra parts to try, have had superceded parts supplied where STM seemingly considered the complaints to be legitimate, and replacement parts where there has been an actual mechanical failure in the parts. You say they had all the info and sold you a product that didn't suit your needs.. But you also say you bought the clutch through someone else. Vivid racing, who now won't deal with you. Does that mean that it wasn't actually STM that gave the guarantee it would solve all your problems ? Be honest Keys.. Isn't it the case that in fact STM have bent over backwards to try and help you ? Assistance which you repay with this treachery. I see that some people, like you, have bought these clutches and struggled to get them tuned in as they hoped they would be able to, and are disgruntled, but those people were not mechanics. Other people that did manage to get their tune right after a bit say they have been very happy with their setup, that it's performed well and they are very happy with it. There is a fellow in this forum Keys, that was trying to convince me for days that there is a certain common japanese carburetor that can't be tuned. He tells me that he's spent hours and hours and weeks and weeks and months even struggling(his words) to tune this particular make and model of carb to suit his modified quad. We got into that discussion because he disagreed with me about how the idle speed and mixture should be adjusted. He likes to tune his in a different way to what myself and the manufacturers say it should be done. I know though that when you adjust it as he was suggesting to someone, that it leads to a vicious circle of bad adjustment after adjustment trying to overcome a problem you are making worse, a problem caused by adjusting it as he prefers. He eventually claimed that doing it his way, that you didn't need any idle circuits on a carb, and there were no problems with that because we have electric start now, His theory about why these carbys are so untunable is because they weren't designed with the aid of a computer. That fellow though Keys, didn't know or understand how the various different circuits in a carby worked, let alone how they interacted and overlapped oneother. But he still insisted that it was the carby that was badly made. He simply could not bring himself to acknowledge that it was him that had the problem, not the carby. You, and your problem Keys, sounds just like this same mind set. He blames the carby maker, who have made hundreds of thousands of carbys over near a century, for being , in his opinion, incompetent. He thinks they shouldn't be selling those carbys. You, because you weren't able to tune your clutch to do what you thought it should do, blame the clutch. There are people out there that are running bigger tyres I see, and with no problems, some with stock clutches, and some with aftermarket. I also see that some people consistently get what I would consider totally unacceptable life spans out of their belts, 300 miles, while others get what for a polaris is considered acceptable.. Still only a few, very few, thousands of miles per belt. Some of those people have stock clutches and some have aftermarket. It's unfortunate that you haven't been able to get what you want or hoped for Keys, it's a pity that you think it's all somebody else's fault, but your disappointment can't all be sheeted home to STM, and you really should be able to see that in the same way the fellow with the carby should be able to see that it's not the design of the carby. Neither of you can though.. I'm sure STM are used to people like you Keys, and if I was STM Keys, having given you all the help and advice they have, to no avail, I wouldn't want to have anything more to do with you. It doesn't reflect on them Keys, by your own admission they have been very helpful, but there are some things which we professional people have to step away from because we are professional. We can't allow ourselves to be blackmailed or coerced into attempting the impossible, and refusing to attempt the impossible is the professional thing to do. They didn't design Polaris, they have no control over your driving abilities, they can't overcome every limitation of belt drive. Satisfying your unreasonable expectations is the impossible. I think you have a lot to account for here Keys.. I think you need to accept that and stop libeling these people with your scurrilous posts. I even think you should apologise.. but that's just me, that's what I would do having had these things pointed out to me. The only thing I do agree with you about is.. I wouldn't want to be "That Guy". Not because he'd wasted money, but because I wouldn't want to be him.

And no Keys, we do not have similar trains of thought. I really do not think that with a little more insights you are going to make your buggy into something it's not. I've trained apprentices, and my sons. They listened and took advice. and they are all good mechanics. They wouldn't have been in the paper for being fully qualified before turning twenty-one, or been apprentice of the year, by following advice from someone like you. Best you stick to your game, and leave the teaching to those that know about mechanics.

No Keys, I've had practically nothing to do with side by sides, I've driven a few, and driven a few belt drives. I am though well trained in mechanicing, and knowledgeable about how things work. I know practically nothing about your particular design of belt drive but I have worked on belt drives. I do know the basis of their operation, about the balance between revs at the front, and torque at the back. I also know they do not take much abuse. I know that those belt drives can be temperamental, need setting up properly, and are not necessarily intuitive in their operation or adjustments. My suspicion is that you have set off down the wrong path, ignored or not understood what you have been told regarding the new kit, made adjustment after adjustment making your problems worse not better. That and not bedding in your belts, and probably, by the things you say, and that photo, a bad understanding of how to drive a belt drive, or not driving to the requirements of the machine. It's equally obvious that you haven't read the owners manual, or have chosen to ignore it, or you'd know that they say to do a lot more than two one mile runs to bed the belt in.. just for starters. How you could get stuck in that small hole to start with, and then not be able to get out, defies belief, but there you go, you did it. It makes a mockery of your supposed "aggressive trail riding". If you'd been going even slightly briskly, as the machine is designed to do, that buggy should have just bounced straight through that puddle. No matter. At the end of the day you didn't do the research, bought a machine that was obviously not suitable for you, then didn't do more research and bought bits that were never going to overcome your and the vehicles inherent failings, and now are trying to blame it all on STM. You might as well try and blame it all on Polaris. As I said, some people just can't be helped, because they don't want to hear. Keep believing that you know better than the people that design and make these machines and parts. Keep on having unrealistic expectations. Keep blaming it all on STM. I

I didn't see you come in here asking about your belt problems Keys.. If I had I might have had a bit more advice or suggestions for you. You signed up to slag STM off.. Now my only advice is grow up, accept responsibility for your decisions and actions.

Ha..I just realised as I was walking down to the letterbox that I'd missed a decade in my calculations.. I was restoring, customising and hotting up bikes for other people when you were just getting pubic hair.. I was over hauling bikes for myself and my friends when you were in junior school. Yeah I knew how old you were Keys.. this is the internet...

I don't hate anyone Keys. I'm not loyal to any person either. I realised a longtime ago that it's the principles that are important, and that anyone can have a bad day and do something unworthy. I'm loyal to and support good principles wherever I find them, whoever I find them in, and I decry poor behavior and attitudes even in my friends. I have integrity Keys.. wholeness.. it makes being honest easy. Know yourself Keys.. Make sure you are the person you would like to be.

And just for the record.. Yes there are things I know that you don't, hard though that may be for you to swallow. I was riding a 650 BSA when you were one year old. I was overhauling motorbikes for myself and pay about the time you were getting pubic hair. I've ridden two wheels and four over every sort of terrain except ice and snow, thousands upon thousands of hours. I know vehicles, traction, balance and the outdoors like you are never going to. To me it's a way of life, not a weekend adventure. I'm a mechanic, a self employed mechanic till a few years ago, in the country, with a regular clientele. Even if it wasn't my personal choice since I was twenty-one, I've had to be honest. I've been dealing with and helping people with their vehicle problems and needs, and because I'm trusted, their financial, personal, relationship and spiritual needs, for scores of years. I saw straight through you Keys immediately. I'm a straight speaker and recognise BS when I see it, and I call it. You've been called.

I'm not your friend or brother Keys. I've got no vested interests at all. Every belt drive machine on the market stipulate their limits. There's no such thing as an idiot proof machine. Some people just can't accept that they have made a mistake, and/or, are dealing with things they don't understand. If you want a buggy with a rock solid bulletproof transmission then buy one. You should stop trying to make a sow's ear into a silk purse and blaming other people when the money falls straight through. I don't really care about your mechanical ineptitude Keys, or your inability to understand simple physics, or your lack of driving skills, what does concern me is your underhand way of trying to explain them away. If you want advice about your problem, ask, if you want advice about driving that buggy, ask.. There are plenty of experienced and competent people in here and the other sites that would be happy to help you with those.. if you are willing to listen. I think ego's getting in the way here Keys and that you are never going to be able to accept the reality of the situation though, so I doubt anyone is going to be able to help you despite any amount of good will on their part. There really are limits to what can be done to and with the machine, or for you as things stand.

Some people just can't be helped Keys.. They know it and I know it. I'll be very surprised if they waste any more of their time trying to satisfy your unreasonable expectations. Keep digging though..

No trouble. I've pulled heaps of those and similar fittings out of carbys. They come out and go back in easily and give no trouble. If you still have trouble with the pump. let me know and I'll post detailed instructions for testing the pump.. I have them already written up.

No, pull the old port out of the old carby and fit it to the new carby. That other new part there is for a different type of throttle cable, I think from memory that the spiraling machining on the ports is in a direction such that it's best to turn the port fitting anti-clockwise when you are pulling it out. I may be wrong about that, but I think you can tell which way is best to turn and pull if you try turning and pulling it a little each way. Pull the old one out of the old carby first. You only need to rotate it about a quarter or so of a turn. The spiral is very fast..

Lol.. You seem to missing the point entirely Keys, several points. First off though, are you going to tell people how many sites you joined up to just for the specific purpose of slagging off this company ? I think that people would be interested in that. I think that says a lot about you, and your sincerity and credibility as a person even though it's got nothing to do with your mechanical or driving ability. If as you claim, that honesty and credibility and all the rest of the bullshit you claim, are so important to you, then be honest, with us, and with yourself. Then I might start to be interested, then I might believe some of what you have to say. You still think you can change clutch, tyres and belt all at one time, and prove it's their clutch. That's not good science. Kids at school know that. You still think that by fitting a new clutch that you can make a belt drive stand up to abuse that the manufacturers are happy to admit is a weak point. You seem to think that STM should be responsible for the whole design of the buggy you have bought. You even seem to think STM should be responsible for your incompetence. I think you need to take a good long look at yourself here Keys. If you keep driving like a nanna that belt is always going to be vulnerable. In your other scurrilous posts ( you do know what scurrilous means don't you), you say you are a guy that likes to "scoot along". But it's obvious to every one here, and no doubt to Dustin, that you don't know what you are doing, talking about, or how to drive that buggy. Use the buggy for what it's designed for, as it was designed. Learn to drive. Realize that it's you causing the problems here, and stop digging yourself into a bigger hole, literally and figuratively. And above all Keys, stop trying to convince me that you know what you are talking about and that you are a sincere guy.. It's like you say.. DON'T BE THIS GUY. I wouldn't be you for all the tea in China. I wouldn't even stand close to you.

You need to swap the pump ports over or drill out the new one. They come out easy. use a spanner or pliers and turn the port and pull at the same time. Try to rotate it as little as possible because it has spiraling machining on it to help it stay in, They need a little rotating though to help them come out. Take the old one out first to see how it's done. The old one will push in firmly and be fine but if you are worried use a little loctite on it.

Ha. Yeah I know skidder chains.. That is a bit much alright.. You're a nutty guy !

Have you checked the bulb ?