Mech

Yeah yeah yeah Randy... have a good day.. Go ride your bike or something..

According to the owners manual if there is an electrical fault the dash will flash.. Is it flashing ? This is a twin cylinder right ? So does one injector squirt ? Did you change both injectors ?

There are a few other things we should check.. After you changed the injector did you bleed the air out of the lines by turning the key on and off several times ? And, are you really sure there's no power, or are you just assuming that because a new injector isn't doing what it should ? If you put a finger lightly on the injector, can you feel it click/pulse when you crank the engine over ? It's only a very slight click you will feel, use a light finger. If the engine was running, you'd be able to feel the injector make a click as it injected.. cranking it over might make the engine shake too much to be able to feel it but it would be a good idea to check that if we can if it's only the lack of fuel that you are sure about.. Perhaps the injector is getting the power, but it needs bleeding, or it might be faulty.. It happens occasionally ! Try and verify there is fuel to the injector, loosen the coupling perhaps. And try to feel for the click.. If you took the injector out again you'd feel the click.. but it's a bit of a fire risk.. Be careful.

Well I haven't found a service manual, but that site has an owners manual for it which has a bit of trouble shooting suggestions. Unfortunatly the owners manual doesn't have a wiring diagram.. But, since the problem has only arisen since you did some work on it.. I'd suspect it's something you've done.. So, first thing would be to check that a wire hasn't broken where it goes into the injectors plug. Best way would be to trace the colour of the wire back to the ecu, and then use an ohm gauge to test from one end of the wire(from the ecu), to the other end(the injectors terminals inside the plug). If you can't trace the wire, use a pin and poke it into the injector wire a little way back from the plug and check from the pin to the injectors plug. That's just checking that there is continuity through the wire and into the terminal itself. You should do a similar sort of trace and test of the earth wire too. Try that and let us know how that goes, and I'll see if I can find a wiring diagram or service manual.

" Lithium batteries like to be drawn down to 60% and charged up to 80% for maximum life." Oh really.. and where did you read that? "Discharging them beyond 50% causes them irreparable harm.". Oh.. your opinion again or did you read that somewhere online ? Just because IEEE quote or print something doesn't make it peer reviewed or science..

And a quick read up on the beloved Researchgate reveals that it doesn't do any testing, or verifying. it links to people's published works, peer reviewed on not... and.. Is ResearchGate credible? There are credible researchers with strong records of good quality peer-reviewed publications, even the occasional Nobel prize-winner, who are signed up to ResearchGate. But there are also many others with much weaker publication records, and contributions of doubtful value.

Yes well Randy nothing in either of the manuals you quote say anything about not fully recharging the battery, or only operating them through a narrow range of mid-charge.. As with carbies, and diagnosing charging systems, or electrical faults in general, you prefer your opinions over the conventional wisdom and proven best practice.

Trojan batteries have their testing done by independent testers Randy, and to very high standards.. I've already suggested anyone interested look in their technical resources. You'd rather listen to a man that claims to have invented a radio transmitter that needed no power.. Each to his own. And.. what exactly is your field of expertise Randy.. Not radio obviously, or carburetors.

And just as a matter of interest Randy.. do you have a profession, a trade, some experience in any industry at all relevant to the things we discuss in here ? Other than politics that is.. Everyone's an expert and got an opinion about that.

And what did your phone manual say about charging and discharging ?

Lol.. I know some things well Randy.. It's my job. Do you have a smart phone Randy ? Did you read it's owners manual ? You've been here ten years I think you said Randy, and you've made five-hundred odd posts, and how many problems have you got to the bottom of ? I joined two years ago, and post anytime I have something useful to contribute.. I've been credited with five cures.. Compared to you Randy.. I am an expert. And I wouldn't waste my time disagreeing with what you say just because it's you saying it Randy. I disagree with posts I think are wrong and dangerously wrong.

Your cut-n-paste text contradicts the graph Randy.. You tell me I'm naive to believe what "big corporations", say, because according to you, they can lie, but you believe anything on the internet that supports your misguided opinions. It's no matter though, because we are discussing starting batteries.. and we would like to think that if we had a decent sort of vehicle the battery would never get down below the twenty-five percent discharge that the manufacturers say doesn't qualify as any discharge cycle.. I'm a mechanic and was taught about batteries and trained in their care, and I've worked on thousands of machines and diagnosed hundreds of charging and battery problems, I've been off grid using batteries for power for.. er.. about thirty-eight years.. How far beyond the internet does your education and experience with batteries go Randy ?

You didn't get that graph, or information from a battery manufacturer, now did you Randy... But it came from the internet and so must be right eh..

Jack the wheel off the ground and put a block of wood real close to the tyre and then see if the gap changes as you turn the wheel.. You'll only be able to check from knob to knob but it might show up an out of round or a bulge. Try the same thing at both sides to check for side bulges.

Sounds like you have a dead battery. You could disconnecting the quad battery, then try only using the jumper battery to see if it will start and run it. If that gets it going then you need to check your charging system. There are service manuals here.. up the top of the page, "more", then "service manuals", then "suzuki"...

That's right GW.. But Randy, just about everything you said about lithium is exactly the opposite of correct.

Is this it... https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1006793/Hisun-Hs500utv.html

Ok.. I found the dealers site... so you'd better give us a bit more info.. is it side by side or two wheels or quad.. Does it have a model name or designation ?

Is it one of these... https://www.manualslib.com/2/2015+massimo+500.html If it is, is the dash flashing trouble codes at you ? Is your's called an alligator ?

Are you sure it's meant to have power to it all the time ? Does it perhaps have a permanent earth ? Some engines have power going to the injector all the time the key is on, and then the ecu earths the injector momentarily when they want it to inject. Other systems though have a permanent earth, and then the ecu sends a momentary voltage to the injector when they want it to inject. Perhaps this is one of the latter.. Do you have the service manual for this thing ? And.. what is a massimo ? Is that a make, or a model of quad ? Is it a quad ? haha.. I've never heard of that before.

I agree, Yuasa batteries are good. A quick google of... "yuasa batteries america", tells me they are still being made in America. That said, if it's anything like here there's nothing to stop somebody importing a cheap yausa from some third world country where the batteries are made to a budget, and selling them in America.. Those might not be up to scratch.. We get cheap stuff here from reputable American brands, that are made for poorer markets and don't have all the features or quality built in that we might expect.

Ha.. wise guy.. I see.

B.O.B ? Not sure what that is Mate... But bigger.. yeah definitely..

I think around here, in N.Z, most people would expect to get six years out of their battery. I've noticed before though that in some makes, the N.Z versions get bigger batteries and different charging systems than the Yanky versions.. That might be the explanation.. though, you guys also get harsher climatic conditions in places than we do, and sound like you park your bikes up for part of the year, which wouldn't often happen here. Cold is hard on batteries, and the cure for it, stronger acid, isn't conducive to long life either. Parking up without an occasional trickle charge isn't good for batteries either. I've always wondered why we get bigger batteries.. Perhaps it's just better economics to replace small batteries if they are going to die anyway, so pragmatic to have small ones.. Haha.. Bad luck Randy.. Us Kiwis have got bigger ones !!

Some of those things are a bit hard to test if the four wheels working. You should read the service manual. They only actually engage the front wheels if there is slippage, as soon as the traction is regained they disengage themselves automatically. Just pushing the button doesn't mean they are necessarily going to engage four wheel drive. In the case of the breaking axles, and the grabbing of the steering, I'd suspect a faulty cv or universal.