Mech

View File 2000-2001 Suzuki Vinson LTA500F Service Manual Vinson LTA500F service manual Submitter Mech Submitted 12/03/2022 Category Suzuki ATV  

There's a service manual there now. .. https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/file/683-vinson-lta500f-2000-2001/ Hopefully it will do a 2002 model.

I don't know anything about those things.. It sounds like you are on top of it. I suppose you have the service manual ? That should show you most stuff.. with a bit of comparing with the bike to understand it.

If you go to the home page of this site there is a link to manuals.

You should download an owners manual and it will have everything you need to know in it. There are owner and service manuals on this site.

Every part will come out. If it's part 14 you want out then it looks to me like a full strip down most likely. Never worked on one though. If it's part 7 then I'd imagine you'll have to move one of the cases(a diff ?), from the end of it enough to let the shaft pull off it's splines. Parts 24, 29, 31 and 33 are all called Yokes. universal yokes.. I take it that's the part you want to access ? It's possible that the key is made weak on purpose, to save damage to other parts.. It might be designed to shear before anything else breaks. Key steel is quite soft, it you want to make it stronger you could use a harder/hardened key. I wouldn't recommend that though..

The atmospheric conditions here have been sh** and I haven't managed to get a manual. I'll give it another go but it sounds like you are following the process so you should get there. The manuals tell you everything you need to know, but sometimes we need to read between the lines to get the hidden bits.. Like it'll say A causes B, B causes C unless D, but we have to deduce that there will be no C without the A, and that we need to eliminate the chance of/event D.. Sometimes the mention of A, is pages away from the mention of C too.. If we read the whole section in the manual, twice (haha), then we get it. If it's a wiring problem, it's most likely that a wire's either broken right where it goes into the terminal in a plug on the end of a wire, and sometimes wriggling each wire carefully will reveal it by it's easy bending compared to the rest of the wires, or it'll be chafing of the loom which we just look for.. If it is a crook dash or ecu, you'll get it if you read carefully.. And follow the process as spelt out.. tedious though it is. They often say test every friggin thing, then if it's none of them, it's an ecu or dash. It's a process of elimination. Very tedious but it does get the right component in the end, rather than taking expensive guesses. If you have a buddy though that would let you borrow his dash or ecu, or bike, to plug your components into, that makes it easier, and it's what dealers do all the time, borrow a part off a customers vehicle to try. I think that if I was running it in gear at revs like that up on blocks, I'd take the wheels off..

This is him.. Send him a private message and he can probably help you. https://www.quadcrazy.com/profile/24853-markinar/

That top photo the cable looks like it has a bit of a sharp bend in it.. Perhaps it gets realigned and attaches to the shift lever differently. The bottom lever looks like it has to be that way or it will hit the case huh ? I don't know anything about yamahas.. they aren't so popular around here.. Markin looks in from here time to time, but if you post in the yamaha specific thread you might catch him easier..

Ok... I'll get a manual and have a look.. Might spot something.

If you haven;t had the gearbox apart then it's probably just a lever on the outside aiming up or left when it should be down or right.. We have a yamaha guy.. Markin.. ny I think it is. MarkinNY.. He seems to know those things inside out.

If you tell us what size it is or the exact model I'll have read of the manual and see if I can spot anything...

Clear the fault codes and see if they come back.. they may be old codes.. I'll get a manual and have a read. This is one with the electric shift I presume.. I've had bad dashes on those before causing shift problems.. Long time ago now though and I can't remember what the problem was.. not clutch though,,

Oh ok.. so it's a trike.. And 200 and 1983.. There will be some forum or site that will be able to break the digits down much more specifically for you.. market and specs, then you can look up parts much more knowingly.. and also use the online parts to narrow right down to exactly what carby and charging and other bits and pieces that vary.

I wouldn't. I think they would say 90 grade in the manual. That oil there is a 140 and far thicker.. It might not circulate around in there fast enough, and/or get hot. There are manuals to download on this site.. Owners or service will tell you what it should have.

So it's a honda and it will be a trx. You need to find a site that will have the honda format for the forth to ninth digits. The year says 1983... or 2013..

Could you post the numbers here.. or.... The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is composed of 17 characters. The standard was originally defined in ISO Standard 3779 in February of 1977. Then it was revised in 1983. The ISO VIN is designed to identify motor vehicles of all kinds: cars, trucks, busses, motorcycles etc. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) contains three major sections: WMI - World Manufacturer Identifier (1,2,3 characters in VIN structure) If the manufacturer builds less than 500 vehicles per year than the third digit is "9". The WMI is described in detail in ISO 3780. VDS - Vehicle Description Section. It contains 6 characters (4th to 9th positions in VIN) and defines vehicle attributes specified by manufacturer. VIS - Vehicle Identifier Section. The last 8 characters of VIN define Year, manufacturer plant and serial (sequential) number of the vehicle. The last four characters shall be numeric. The 10th position of the Vehicle Identification Number is a YEAR CODE. ISO recommends that in VIN code capital letters A to Z and numbers 1 to 0 may be used, excluding I,O and Q in order to avoid mistakes of misread. No signs and spaces are allowed in Vehicle Identification Number code. *********************************************** Recap with examples: Digits 1,2,3 are World, Manufacturer, Identifier Digits 4,5,6,7,8 are Vehicle descriptor Section -- *Somewhat variable based on manufacturer. Digit 9 is the check digit Digit 10 is the Year code Digit 11 is the Factory code Digits 12,13,14,15,16,17 are the Vehicle Identification Sequence Let's see how this splits: First digit - Country code U.S.A.(1 or 4), Canada (2), Mexico (3), Japan (J), Korea (K), England (S), Germany (W), Italy (Z) Second digit - Manufacturer Audi (A), BMW (B), Buick (4), Cadillac (6), Chevrolet (1), Chrysler (C), Dodge (B), Ford (F), GM Canada (7), General Motors (G), Honda (H), Jaguar (A), Lincoln (L), Mercedes Benz (D), Mercury (M), Nissan (N), Oldsmobile (3), Pontiac (2 or 5), Plymouth (P), Saturn (8 ), Toyota (T), Volvo (V), Suzuki (S), Kawasaki (K). Third digit - Identifier Motorcycle (1), ATV (A) Kawasaki and Suzuki seem to follow this anyway Fourth digit - Vehicle category Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands. ATV (A), Scooter (C), Business model or commuter (B), Single cylinder sport/street (N), Multiple cylinder sport/street (G), Family (F), Off road (S), V-Type engine, street, V2/V4/V6/8,... (V), Square Four (H) Fifth digit - Engine Displacement Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands. A=49cc and less B=50-69cc C=70-79cc D=80-89cc E=90-99cc F=100-124cc G=125-149cc H=150-199cc J=200-249cc K=250-399cc M=400-499cc N=500-599cc P=600-699cc R=700-749cc S=750-849cc T=850-999cc U=1000-1099cc V=1100-1199cc W=1200-1299cc Y=1400-1499cc Z=1500 & up Sixth digit - Engine Type Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands. 1=2 stroke single 2=2 stroke twin 3=2 stroke triple or four 4=4 stroke single 5=4 stroke twin 6=? 7=4 stroke four Seventh digit Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands. Design sequence or model version first version uses 1 then second version uses 2 etc... the tenth version would then be identified by the letter A then B etc.. Eigth digit Data here is Suzuki specific, haven't found info for other brands. First version uses 1 then second version uses 2 etc... the tenth version would then be identified by the letter A then B etc... Ninth digit - Check digit The ninth vehicle identification number digit is a VIN accuracy check digit, verifying the previous VIN numbers. This is how the check digit works STEP 1 Assign to each number in the VIN its actual mathematical value and assign to each letter the value specified for it in the following chart: ASSIGNED VALUES: A=1 G=7 P=7 X=7 B=2 H=8 R=9 Y=8 C=3 J=1 S=2 Z=9 D=4 K=2 T=3 E=5 M=3 U=4 F=6 N=4 V=5 STEP 2 Multiply the assigned value for each character in the VIN by the position weight factor specified in the following chart: VIN POSITION AND WEIGHT FACTOR: 1st = 8 10th = 9 2nd = 7 11th = 8 3rd = 6 12th = 7 4th = 5 13th = 6 5th = 4 14th = 5 6th = 3 15th = 4 7th = 2 16th = 3 8th = 10 17th = 2 9th = check digit STEP 3 Add the products from steps 1 and 2 and divide the total by 11. STEP 4 The numerical remainder is the check digit which would appear in the 9th position in the VIN. If the remainder is 10, then the letter "X" is used for the check digit. Tenth digit - Year Code 80(A), 81(B), 82(C), 83(D), 84(E), 85(F), 86(G), 87(H), 88(J), 89(K), 90(L), 91(M), 92(N), 93(P), 94(R), 95(S), 96(T), 97(V), 98(W), 99(X), 00(Y), 01(1), 02(2), 03(3), 04(4), 05(5), 06(6), 07(7), 08(8 ), 09(9),10(A), 11(B), 12(C), etc. Eleventh digit - Factory Code Manufacturer code for what plant it was built in Twelfth to Seventeenth digits - Serial Number

I'd check down where the wiring connects to the engine for a connector and clean and dry that. Then I'd undo the drain screw on the bottom of the carby and see if water comes out. If the handlebars went under the kill switch might need drying. Thee plug into the cdi might need drying.. The flywheel might have a speck of rust on it interfering with the trigger coil.

It's always a good idea to check sensors like that from the ecu end of the wiring.. There might be a break in a wire.. Unplug the ecu and use the ohm gauge from there to the throttle and back. I'd imagine there are three wires ? 5volts, earth and variable ? Some modern ecu don't feed exactly five volts, or have an exact earth, both wires have a very small resistor feeding the opposite into the wire, so the 5volt has a resistor feeding a tiny amount of earth so it read 4.5volts, and the earth wire has a resistor keeping it at about .5 volts.. It's to allow better failsafe operation.. It's something to watch for though when you are checking voltages etc. I've connected laptops to cars and a suzuki road bike but not a honda. Connecting is pretty simple, you can use a car obd2 reader hot-wired to the bikes plug if you have a wiring diagram showing what wires to connect to. You will have to either read up and discover which protocol the bike uses, or try the different protocol pins on the obd2 plug until you find the ones that communicate.. then the fun starts.. Unless you know which addresses in the ecu to query it's all a lot of trial and error.. but not impossible. The easy way is to take a dump of the entire ram, then take another dump of the entire ram with the throttle wide open(in this case). Then by comparing the two you will see which is the throttle address.. we hope. Then you need to figure out what sort of calculation needs to be done to that figure you get from the correct address to make it relevant as a percentage or angle.. There are some fairly common practices though, like dividing by 256 then multiplying by 100.. It's probably not worth your time and trouble unless you do a lot of work on a specific vehicle..

Does it have a diagnosis function ? I'd check that, it should tell you if there is a communication problem between components.

You might have an air/vacuum leak between the engine and the carby.. If it's a rubber manifold the carby fits into with a hose clamp check the rubber for splits. If it's a metal manifold there will be an "O" ring between it and the carby.. check it's still there and not old and flattened. Also check any breather hoses are on the right places.

If the clanking's a metallic sound, I'd be checking the axle's universals I think. If it's something like a uj it would sound quite clear, but if it was in the gearbox then it would be a bit muffled and in a different direction. If it was trying to jump gears, having a hand on the gear change might give some indication.. it would jump. You should be able to identify where the sounds coming from a bit better if you lean and/or turn towards all four corners or the drive belt/transmission as it's making the noise. Perhaps get someone else to drive while you clamber around and lean over the sides..haha.. It's what mechanics do.. Given the "clanking" description I'd check out metal to metal contacts before taking the belt covers off. I haven't had much experience with belt drives though and Gw may know they can make quite clanking noises..

You should check the plug as Gw says. And, you need to be a bit more specific about how much throttle you get to before it starts to die. And, whether it starts to die as soon as you get to that throttle position, or whether it will start pulling at that throttle then die after a second, or more like five or more seconds.. The throttle setting, if it dies as soon as you get to that position, will indicate what jet or setting is at play, and the time indicates low float level or lack of fuel getting into the bowl past the float needle, or a fuel pump problem. Probably a good idea as a first check would be to undo the drain screw on the bottom of the carb and make sure there is plenty of fuel in there, then crank the engine over and make sure it pumps plenty through.. And, if it ran ok before with the needle set higher, then you should put it back where it was.. Changing things indiscriminately will just get you into more problems and confuse the issue. Diagnose carefully, then change one thing at a time and retry.

I always have a good day.. Helping people.