Mech

If it has more than one relay you could try swapping them and see if it causes the other circuit to play up or the fan to come right. It might have a broken wire. Wires mostly break where they go into the metal terminal on their end. You could bridge the wires where they go onto the temp sensor, or if it only has one wire you could earth it out, which should cause the fan to come on. If the fan doesn't come on then go around wriggling the wires near their ends, perhaps flex them very gently, hoping it does come on. If it's still got the original relay at that stage try giving it a few taps with the handle of a screwdriver. If the fan did come on, wriggle wires anyway making sure there isn't an intermittent contact. You could also look into the wiring plugs looking for green corrosion. The other thing that could cause the temp sensor to not operate is if it's siting in a bubble of air. It's not likely that will be caused by a bleeding issue after all this time, but it could be caused by having a blown head gasket or the water pump letting bubbles into the cooling system. You could take the radiator cap or reservoir lid off and look for bubbles coming up in there. If it's a radiator cap the bubbles will probably come up as small bubbles, possibly as small as pin heads, or they could accumulate and come up as a bigger bubble every few minutes. If it's the reservoir it will probably only give one bigger bubble every few minutes so you need to be watching carefully without taking your eye off it. You need the motor hot and idling and you need to keep watching for quite a while, ten minutes will probably show something. If you find bubbles, you need to figure out whether it's the water pump or the head gasket. The easiest way to do that is to check for the presence of hydrocarbons in the bubbles, which mechanics do by doing a Teekay test.. Most workshops have a teekay tester. You can read up on them online. If you don't have access to a teekay tester you have to make a pragmatic decision about which to try/repair first. Generally a head gasket will make more bubbles when they are warm, and they make a lot more bubbles if you can put a heavy load on the engine, so if you sit on it with the brakes on and in gear and then start to load the motor with the clutch engaging you may see a sudden increase in bubbles. Water pumps don't respond like that, but they do tend to make more bubbles at certain revs.. so you might be able to rev it in neutral and get it to bubble more. Telling the difference between pump and gasket is often difficult though.

I'm not sure what part it is you are after Cage. If you looked the part up online and got the part number it would probably help. Also, if you look it up, the site you use might tell you what other models and years the part fits. The other model might use a different part number, but if your part fits the other bike, then the other bike's part will fit yours, perhaps with the use of some other parts, such as the shift lever, or a spring, or a bush... something like that.. or, the other part may fit straight in, it might just be the superseded number Just because they use different part numbers does not mean the part won't fit.

Are you following the recommended diagnosis procedure as laid out in the service manual ? Have you checked for trouble codes ? Do you know where the fuel pressure regulator is and have you checked that or tried disabling it ? Yes, a blocked injector won't cause low pressure, but a stuck open one might. Zero pressure though sounds more like pump or regulator. A vacuum leak into the inlet could also give a lot of those symptoms), and so could incorrectly adjusted valve clearances. or an ignition problem(not zero pressure though. You could check for the vacuum leak with the engine start.. with the engine idling spray it anywhere there could be air getting in, manifold, hoses, charcoal canister. The suspect ignition you might spot easily by attaching a timing light and watching it as you rev the motor. Valves.. It's in the book.

Regular families or only UHNW ones ?

****@gmail.com Discrete enough ?

Yeah good buy. It's always good to have a known good component to try when we're having trouble.. but.. we have to know it is good, or it just clouds the issue. I'd plug the coil, and then the cdi box, one at a time, into the bikes wiring and give it a run to test them.. before I got a problem.. Then I would know I was testing with a good item.

Ok.. that's useful knowing they don't run off the battery.. assuming they are the same.. Cheers.

Haven't you got someone you could go and visit or something Randy, a lawn to cut or a hedge to trim.. I'm here to try and help find the answer to people's problems Randy, not entertain you.

I'm sure you will know the best way already Randy.. You should be telling us. Do a write up and admin might make it a sticky..

Oh dear...

I think that all of our track records speak for themselves.. It's easy to see who knows what they are talking about, and who does the cut-n-pastes. And who the armchair expert is, and who has the experience.

Haha.. No Randy.. we haven't had those problems.. Tell me Randy, have you ever done up a car or truck head ? Did you lap the valves ? Or just replace the guides, seats and valves... all proffesional like ? And how long did that job last ? Have you done many head jobs on vehicles ? How long have they lasted ? More than a year ?

And quite a few of those valves, as far as I can see, look fine.. The seats might have been crook, or Randy's one thou valve clearance might have been a problem, but the valves look good.. I'd use some of them again, and they would I'm sure be fine(as far as I can see in that picture).. They would go for years and years.. My customers would be happy. My customers are always happy.

Haha.. And just look at the angles Dave.. But it was lapping that was the problem.. That center valve, and the one above it are real doozies... I can't begin to imagine how they would get like that..

Oh ok.. like I say, I'm not familiar at all with those bikes.. I'm in New Zealand and polaris is fairly new here and not very common. I'd look up the original part number,(and price) and then go looking online for an aftermarket one that's sold as a replacement for that part number. Sometimes the original part is cheaper than the replacement.. especially if they are claiming the replacement is some sort of "performance" part.. or some such bullshit.

Yeah that's fine Randy. I'll keep lapping my valves in.. I'm responsible for ensuring things are right.. I have to know they are right when I put them together, the one and only time. Your record of failures does nothing to assure me at all..

Ok.. good stuff. I wouldn't know about an aftermarket. Is the reg on the fuel rail or injector is it ? I think I've seen aftermarket ones being discussed so I guess they are available for that particular bike. There are two common variations of reg(on vehicles in general), some have a vacuum hose and some don't.. and of course they come in different pressures, but they don't vary by much. It might just have a speck of rust under the valve though. perhaps if you put some fairly high pressure air in there it will blow it out..

Ha.. yeah I've heard that before from people that make a lot of mistakes.. and don't learn. Some of them even reckon our mistakes are the only way, some insist we have to make mistakes to learn !! But it's not true. A fool can make endless mistakes and never learn a thing. There are a zillion wrong ways of doing things Randy, and we can waste a lifetime trying all of them out. There's generally only one or two right ways to do things, and those we can be taught and then confirm to ourselves no problem.. There are better ways to learn.

But Randy, you've never followed my advice ever. You do things your way and have problem after problem, problems that go on for days, weeks, months,(by your own admission), with hundreds of man hours wasted on them. But still your way is best.. And yet I (and others) lap valves and have 100% success.. They last for years and years and years, decades even.. you do it and have 100% failures within a short time.. And I'll be Randy, that I've done a hell of a lot more valve grinds than you have, on all sorts of machinery from the very small to the very big, and the very old, to the very modern. But you know best don't you Randy.. everyone else are the fools.. And that you know.. you can probably guarantee that too.. 100% And if I was silly enough to try to walk you through a valve grinding job, you'd argue the whole way, skip bits, not take care with the important bits that matter, and then try and blame me for your failure. It's always someone else's way that's the fault isn't it Randy, not your incompetence and refusal to learn.

Looking at the diagram in a 2014 book it shows the hub being controlled by the computer.. The switch signals the computer, the computer turns the hub on or off. I don't know Polaris at all though so it may not be the same.. It wasn't your exact model..

Perhaps the power goes to the hubs and then gets earthed by the switch ? The wiring diagram should show it.

Yeah it's funny how you have so much problems with things Randy, doing them your original self taught way.. Valves I lap last for years and years and thousands upon thousands of miles.. Carbs I work on come right and stay good for years. The repairs I do are economical because I do and replace everything needed, and nothing that isn't.. But then... I'm trained and know what I'm doing..

Good stuff.. So a double win.. the bike and now you get to spend time riding with your love..

Well done. Another one saved.. Another bike out there being ridden. What they're made for..

Huck.. You should listen to Gw and myself... We are the guys who do fix things... properly.. not just try to fix things.. unsuccessful... Take Randy's advice at your own risk.